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Kubota GR2000/2100 snowblower

hayabusa
17 years ago

Has anyone got the snowblower for the GR2100 or GR2000 series? If so, what are your experiences? Do I need chains or rear weights?

I am planning on purchasing a blower for my 2100. One dealer says I probably don't need chains or rear weights, and another says I should get them.

Probably I will just get the blower and try it out without the weights or chains, any actual experienced feedback would help. I have a long paved flat drive with a circular drive to one side and I am worried about scuffing the pavement if I use the chains.

Also, Kubota offers an electric cute rotation/tilt controls...has anyone used this? Is it really worth it?

Pete.

Comments (17)

  • skeeterbug
    17 years ago

    I would do exactly what you suggested. I would add some weight inside the tires and see how that works. If your driveway is flat then I can't see why you would need chains. Especially with 4WD. Make sure you let us know how it works.

  • paulk
    17 years ago

    hayabusa - did you ever get the blower? If so, what is your opinion?

    Anybody else have the blower for the GR series?

  • hayabusa
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Hi PaulK,

    Yes, I did get the Blower and just recently got a decent snowfall to test it out. It works great! I do not need any rear weights or chains at all. This thing just chugs through deep snow with ease. For now I am using it with the manual chute adjustment/rotation. Next year I will buy the electric chute controls as it is much easier and safer to control the direction with this.

    When I received the blower I decided to do the assembly myself so that I had a better understanding for future service (took around 2.5 hours to assemble). At that time, I also changed all the fluids on the GR2100 and to my surprise, I drained the HST fluid from the transmission and found a few pieces of a brass washer around 1" in diameter drain out. My warranty is up this April, and I need to bring it in to the dealer to check before it runs out. For now, I decided to keep using the tractor as the dealer indicated this is probably a PTO bushing/washer that they have seen fail in a few cases and they have not seen any additional complications due to the broken washers (Should I worry or not?).

    When I drained the HST fluid at the recommended 100 hours I found a lot of black debris/fine metal filings caught in the tube screen filter. I would highly recommend that anyone else with this machine change all fluids at 50 hours just to be sure. One other person that I know with the same machine and noticed similar debris has compared the HST fluid 1 year after his first fluid change and he has found the fluid much cleaner. I believe that the initial residue found in the HST is probably from manufacturing.

    Pete.

  • alaskajack07
    17 years ago

    Pete,
    Thanks for the update! I'm shopping for GR-class tractors to cut grass, blow snow, and light blade work. Do you have experience with your Kubota on hilly terraine?

    Jack

  • hayabusa
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Hi Jack,

    My property is mostly flat, but I have used the GR to cut grass on the sides of some steep ditches with no problems. The GR seems to have a fairly low centre of gravity (even though it looks tall) and with the wide stance and 4WD, it handles very well. Lots of power to pull or push and with the Glidesteer, it turns very tight without turf damage. Others who have used their GR's for blade work mentioned that they were quite impressed.

    If you can justify the slightly extra cost, I would recommend the diesel...lots of torque, smooth, quiet, and very good on fuel.

    Pete.

  • mclaren_f1
    17 years ago

    Hayabusa,

    How long is your GR with the blower attached?

  • alaskajack07
    17 years ago

    Thanks,Pete! I'm looking really close at the 2100 diesel. Kubota diesels seem to run forever in Bobcat loaders.

    Your grass cutting on ditch slope experience is encouraging. That 54" deck probably helps prevent tipping.

    I'll let you know how it turns out.

    Jack

  • paulk
    17 years ago

    Jack,
    I have the GR2100 but had the dealer switch the 54 with a 48 inch deck. I wanted the 48 for some tight spots. Also, I cut a 2 acre field that occasionally grows 20" high. So I thought the smaller deck would cause less strain. The tractor has no problem.
    Also, I have some areas that are extremely steep. I installed rear weights with agg. tires. I have no problem. The tractor is awesome on hills. The only bad thing is that you will find yourself testing the capabilities.
    This spring I will post some picture of the tractor in action.

  • locknut
    17 years ago

    I purchased a GR2000 last year to mow some property that has a very steep 30° bank-type hill that sweeps around the front of the house.The 2000 will climb the shorter 10ft runs on each end on the hill,but not the longer center runs of maybe 20ft or more as the Kholer just runs out of steam.So,I make the long center runs going downhill very slowly using the brake,with the Hydro in neutral.The braking system on these tractors brake the driveline,hence 4-wheel braking.If not for that,there's no way I would go down that hill.Feel's like you're going to fly out over the hood at any moment.I run AG tires filled with Washer fluid @10 lb psi.and only mow when the grass is dry and the soil is firm.

    As far as mowing sideways on a hill,the tractor may be stable past 20° but when my tilt meter reaches that point it's very uncomfortable trying to stay on the seat.

    I don't have a blade or a blower yet,but I did get it out to play around in the 6" snow we had recently.These tractors are a blast-highly recommended!

  • hayabusa
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Sorry not to reply sooner, but there were many business trips and family emergencies over the past few months.

    Mclaren F1,
    I was finally able to measure the gr2100 with blower (no rear weights as they were not needed at all!): total length is almost 9ft long.

    Locknut,
    I can't believe your GR2000 runs out of pull, even at 30deg. One of my neighbours has a hill at least that steep and I will test it out later this summer and let you know. I also had some traction problems last year and found the Glide Steer cables were not set correctly allowing the rear clutches to slip too easily even when going straight. A minor adjustment later and everything was perfect and still turned very tight circles without turf damage.

    Pete.

  • foyman
    17 years ago

    paulk/locknut/hayabusa/others?>

    has anyone com up with a souloution for the lack of driver stability on slopes due to no rear fender handle? this is a hugh problem for me due to my rugged terrain.

  • locknut
    17 years ago

    hayabusa;
    I had the same Glidesteer cable problem.The rear wheels wouldn't pull at all.Took it back and they adjusted the cables.
    Re the hill pulling.I've tried backing off the hydro pedal to bring the RPM back up,but it just wants to stall on the long uphill runs.Maybe I should have got the diesel for the increased torque.Wish they would have made this tractor with a dual-range hydro or use a two-stage pump when the going gets really tough.

  • locknut
    17 years ago

    foyman;I'd agree it's not the most comfortable tractor for side slopes.My old Simplicity was somewhat better in this category,but I do believe that 20° is the maximum on any lawn or garden tractor for safety's sake.A little additional bump or dip could be disasterious.FYI and a good visual aid,I've included a pic of the world's steepest street at 19°/37% slope.Some other facts:30° equals 50% slopeA roof pitch of 7/12 is 30°Maximum road grade at Pikes Peak is 10%.Cog Railway is 25%.It's no wonder this 1200lb tractor with me on it runs out of juice!

    Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:356052}}

  • rockfist
    17 years ago

    Hyabusa -

    I've seen posts by you in other forums on your GR2100. You've had some issues with transaxle leaks, I recall. Have you gotten those straightened out? I recently bought a GR2100, and am a bit concerned about potential problems with the transaxle.

    I have a copy of the parts book, and I see that there have been quite a few parts swapped out over time. Many of them were changed after machine s/n 10014, so s/n 10015 and above has the new stuff. There were a number of parts clutch parts changed out (shafts and gears), but nothing in the HST proper.

    If you don't mind sharing, is your tractor s/n > 10000 or

  • hayabusa
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Once again, I have to appologize for writing back so late. Rockfist, I am planning to do my pre-winter fluid changes and will check to see if there is much debris in the transaxle.

    I was just at my dealer yesterday, and he said that the brass washer that I found in pieces last year was most likely one of the PTO thrust washers. He told me that the PTO will not transmit any power if both of the washers are missing. Oh well, as my GR is now out of warranty, and it has worked flawlessly for the past 2 years, I just hope it will continue through the winter with the blower attached.

    If I find some more metal debris in the transaxle tomorrow, I will update everyone. FYI, my GR is at around 130 hours on the tractor so far.

    Pete.

  • skeeterbug
    11 years ago

    do you still have your gr2100? i had an earlier model purchased in may 2005. It is in the shop right now for a complete overhaul of Transmission, throtle cabe, choke cable, new hood because of the tabs breaking where the lights attach.
    over all i was very pleased with the tractor until last December when i serviced the transmission and got all of the metal filings. these are steel not brass, because they got sucked up by the magnet.
    Do you still have your unit?

  • Ronald Case
    8 years ago

    Hi, I just bought a GR-2100, it is a 2005 and it only has 132 hrs, it is like new, I'm looking for a snow blower for it

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