Have you checked to see that it is running on both cylinders?

Have you checked for gaskets leaking, air leaks, around the carb to manifold & manifold to block gaskets.

Have you checked the spark plugs to see what they look like?

Walt Conner

Poke a straight sewing pin thru the hole in the gas cap, and try it. Or: loosen the gas cap, by just putting it on with only enough of a turn that it won't fall off when it starts. If that solves the problem, look at the cap carefully, and search for a breather hole. An air lock in the fuel delivery system will cause your symptoms.

I tryed both of your ideas and still the same. Any more ideas? Anybody?

I don't see where you checked that it was running on both cylinders nor what the spark plugs looked like. By the way, from the numbers, that is a 1999, not pretty old as those engines go.

Walt Conner

The engine is running on both cylinders and both spark plugs were a nice gray color, No wet or oil fouled plugs. Your right i didnt know it was a '99. Would a weak battery cause this? The battery is just about dead i have to jump it to start it sometimes.

Most likely scenario is the carburetor needs a good cleaning of the main jet and all small passages.
It is not able to provide sufficient fuel for the engine to run at high RPM nor under any load.

Mownie

That idea has crossed my mind.

The typical carb on one of these Opposed Twins has the main jet located right in the bottom of a somewhat "funnel shaped well". In my opinion, this seems to contribute to a build up of sludge and gum that precipitates and settles out of the fuel, along with tiny solid debris which accumulate right at the jet entrance.
It sort of makes blockage and restriction of the main jet to be expected and need cleaning as a result.

mownie

I am going to get a can of carb cleaner and try it. Will let you know if it works.

Rangr90

Problem could also be the result of the fuel pump (part of the carb) getting "tired" or a "restricted" fuel filter.

Good carb advise so far. From your initial post tho, you could have 2 issues. If it wants to die when you take your foot off the brake or engage the deck- does it seem to struggle- or just shut off with like you hit the key? For test purposes, you could disconnect the engine kill wire (single wire that enters the shroud near the carb) and see if that changes that condition. Obviously, that takes your safety switches off line and could be a hazard to mow that way.

Bill Kapun

I will start with a fuel filter and then the pump. I will let you know.

Thanks
Rangr90

Tomplum
It shuts off just like you turn the key off. Where exactly is this wire near the carb? What does it go to? I would like to try that.
Thanks
Rangr90

The wire tomplum is referring to is not near the carb.
The wire connects to the engine coil (magneto).
This wire works to stop the spark when you turn off the key.
It is also tied into the seat switch and brake/clutch pedal safety interlock circuit to kill the engine if you commit an operating error.
What I should have asked before is:
If you have the transmission in NEUTRAL and you let off the clutch/brake..........does the engine die hen?
Or does it die only if you have the trans in gear and try to get rolling?
If it dies even when in NEUTRAL......need to check safety interlock system/switches.
If it only dies when you try to get the tractor into motion, or when you engage the PTO.........refer back to fuel system suggestions.

The kill wire typically enters the main engine shroud behind the carb area on the dipstick side of the engine. Usually a white, barrel type connector. Mownie's spot on what the wire does. So post what you find after disconnecting the wire-if it changes the issue or not.

You probably have either a clogged air vent in the gas cap or the diaphram in the carb has a hole in it. The cap you can clean it up, use air or a piece of wire or even a small drill bit just to clean it out.
The carb diaphram has to be replaced. I have heard of guys using Gorilla glue and fixing them but in my opinion, if you're going to go to the trouble of dismantling everything, why not fix it properly with a new diaphram that cost about $15. The gorilla glue in my opinion might be a worthy cause for something where the diaphram might no longer be available. I know it's the only glue that works with the nitrate material.
Might not be a bad ideal changing out the plug(s), fuel filter, air filter etc. If you live in a dusty area like here in Florida, you have to keep that air filter clean or it won't run.........just like a chain saw with saw dust packing the air filter. Blow it out with compressed air and it runs like new again.

Shuckapeafarms

Is the diaphram in the fuel pump assembly? If i buy a fuel pump kit will it be in there do you know?

Thanks
Rangr90

Mownie & Tomplum

Trans in neutral then release brake then dies out. I got plenty to do so i will let you all know when i get done what happens.

Thanks
Rangr90

would start with checking seat switch...

Hi Everyone

Got it running like a watch!!! I got a can of carb cleaner and sprayed the inside and outside of the carb and it fired up and spit a little bit and runs smooth. I reset the idle and it idles real good. As far as engaging the deck and taking the brake off got that problem solved. I had the seat up and as soon as i put it down and put some weight on it i now can engage the deck and take the brake off and runs smooth.
I want to thank all of you who offered suggestions about fixing my problem with this they sure helped. I am going to put a new gas filter and spark plugs in yet for normal mantinance. I also changed the oil which was dirty.

Again thanks to all!!!
Rangr90