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peter_schweitz

John Deere 245GT

peter_schweitz
16 years ago

I bought a used John Deere 245GT garden tractor with a 60" mowing deck from my local JD dealer who had taken it in on trade. It has a 20HP Kawasaki V-twin OHC air-cooled engine.

Since I bought it two years ago it has been back to the shop twice for the same problem. It loses power and gets gasoline in the crankcase.

Each time I have taken it in to the shop they have changed the oil, swapped out the fuel filter and cleaned the carb & gas tank. They tell me that there has been dirt in the fuel system that caused the float valve in the carburetor to stick and that cleaning it the fuel system should take care of the problem. I've been scrupulous about not getting dirt into the tank during re-fueling since the first time this occurred. Seems to me that the fuel filter should prevent this type of problem.

Today the engine started just fine but did not develop full power after warming up. It seemed that the crankcase was a little over full and that the oil might have been thin so I did an oil change. That did not solve the lack of power issue.

I want to learn how to fix this on my own rather than trailering the unit back to the dealer every six to nine months.

I notice these things:

The fuel filter vessel only fills about 20% full - the rest of the space is filled with air. Only a small area of the filter element is in contact with the fuel passing through. There is some visible dirt collected in the element. Should the fuel line be purged of air? If so, how?

When facing the carburetor from the front of the machine there are two adjustment links that are below and to the right of the carb. One is the choke linkage and the other seems to be a speed governor of some kind. I can overide that linkage and boost the engine speed to the point where it seems it might have more power. When I release this linkage the engine speed drops.

Is what I am experiencing charateristic of this Kawasaki engine? Is there a design flaw that allows gasoline to get into the crankcase and dilute the oil?

Your help appreciated -

Peter Schweitz

Comments (12)

  • deeredoctor
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey Peter,
    I think you have a GT245 w/54c deck. It has a 20hp aircooled V-twin with a 2 barrel carb. The problem is there are 2 different air filters for that engine depending on the carb installed. 1 is internal vented the other externally vented.

    The easiest way to tell if its externally vented is look on the right hand side of the carb, from operator seat, and see if there is a yellow or black tube coming off the side of the carb. If you know how to remove the hood, remove it to look. This is first step to solving the problem. To varify if you have the correct air filter for the carb setup. The orig filters were not marked, the new ones come stamped either "externally or internally vented" on the top of the filter beside the holes. Look at your filter to see if its marked to compare to your carb setup. If you want to look at your parts you can check out the link, JD Parts.

    There is a service bulletin that your dealer can use to solve this issue. There are several things to check on the engine. If you can't resolve the issue talk to the service manager about the service bulletin. The bulletin involves correct air filter, valves adjusted properly, longer carb bowl vent tube, and last jet change.

    Here is a link that might be useful: JD Parts

  • mownie
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Install and use an inline fuel cutoff valve to absolutely stop the gasoline from overflowing into the crankcase while the tractor is stored between uses. In a perfect world, the float and needle valve NEVER allow fuel to enter the engine EXCEPT when the engine is running. In the real world it is a different story. In regard to the so called "air pocket" in the fuel filter....ignore it. It is a normal phenomemon and does not indicate a problem. Believe me when I say that the issue of the "air pocket" has been completely hammered to death in this forum and it is a "NON ISSUE" to your problem (or nearly any other problem).

  • peter_schweitz
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello deeredoctor,

    Yer right about the 54" deck - I must be wishin'...

    The filter says "for Externally vented..."

    There are three tubes on the right side of the carb - The fuel line (black rubber), the intake manifold (black rubber), and a smaller line (might have been white or clear when new) that must be the vent that is open to air on the end not attached to the carb.

    So I'm guessing that my carb is externally vented and the filter I have matches?

    Is there a reference number for the service bulletin? How recently was it issued?

    Is there a way I can easily check to see if these procedures were done on this unit by the previous owner?

    Thanks for the help.

    Peter_Schweitz

  • peter_schweitz
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello deeredoctor,

    Yer right about the 54" deck - I must be wishin'...

    The filter says "for Externally vented..."

    There are three tubes on the right side of the carb - The fuel line (black rubber), the intake manifold (black rubber), and a smaller line (might have been white or clear when new) that must be the vent that is open to air on the end not attached to the carb.

    So I'm guessing that my carb is externally vented and the filter I have matches?

    Is there a reference number for the service bulletin? How recently was it issued?

    Is there a way I can easily check to see if these procedures were done on this unit by the previous owner?

    Thanks for the help.

    Peter_Schweitz

  • johntommybob
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm just guessing that you may be experiencing the same problem that finally caused the former owner to trade it in. But then it would seem that the tracror has run well at least part of the time you have had it, and it would seem that even though it has been back to the dealer twice that they have never fixed what is causing the problem, but only worked on what they thought it might be.

    I agree, find that BULLETIN!

  • deeredoctor
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey,
    I got kinda busy today. I forgot to check for an updated Service Bulletin. Yes, you have the correct airfilter.

    I have a few more questions.

    1. Is the inside of your RH front rim black?

    2. Did you try a new set of sparkplugs? Did the power come back?

    3. Did you remove the prefilter and shine a flash light thru your paper portion of the air filter? Did you see light good thru the paper?

    4. Did the clear vent hose come down behind the RH exh tube and go thru the frame? Or, is it real short just above the muffler area?

  • peter_schweitz
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks again deeredoctor,

    Here are the answers to your questions:

    1. Is the inside of your RH front rim black?

    I assume you mean the right front wheel rim? It's the same as the left wheel rim and does not appear black from oily smoke or such.
    {{gwi:357316}}

    2. Did you try a new set of sparkplugs? Did the power come back?

    I removed the plugs tonight. The appear very new. (the last trip to the shop was in August) They both had a light coating of carbon and the gaps appeared even and the same as each other - I did not check the gaps with a feeler guage but they looked pretty ordinary.
    {{gwi:357317}}

    Is this a standard plug I could pick up at an auto parts store or do I have to make the trek to the JD dealer for new ones? I've had the sense that the engine was running rich and the carbon build up seems to confirm that - is this part of the same syndrome or a separate issue?

    After reinstalling the plugs I tried to start the engine to see if cleaning them improved performance. It started after backfiring lightly quite a few times, ran very rough for about a minute and then died. I could not get it started again after several more attempts. It started raining today and I had the hood off - could the spark plug wires be wet and be shorting out?

    3. Did you remove the prefilter and shine a flash light thru your paper portion of the air filter? Did you see light good thru the paper?

    The paper filter element was also replaced in August and has hardly picked up any dust. A flashlight does shine through the paper.

    4. Did the clear vent hose come down behind the RH exh tube and go thru the frame? Or, is it real short just above the muffler area?

    {{gwi:357318}}

    I'd say it was short and stopped above the muffler area. It ends about 1/2" to 3/4" below where the tube (labeled Tube C) dissappears in this photo.

    Hope this helps narrow down the issues.

    Peter Schweitz

  • deeredoctor
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Solution Number: 64246

    Solution Summary: Engine Runs Rich, Fouls Plugs, or Low Power - GT245 GX255 & GX335 Tractors with EXTERNAL Vent Carburetors.

    Publication Date: Jul 25 2005

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    **Paper copies of solutions may not be the most current solutions**

    Complaint or Symptom:

    FH601V Engine with external vent carburetor runs rich, fouls spark plug(s), blows black smoke out exhaust, misfires, is low on power, etc.

    Problem or Situation:

    Engine fouls spark plug(s) in low hours of useage. Plug(s) are black and dry (gas fouled) sooty.
    Technician has already followed SIB # 03-11-30-6 on the carburetor vent tube change, with no improvement.
    Customer is running unit at WOT while mowing.
    Customer is using fresh fuel (less than 30 days old.)
    ENGINE IS FH601V WITH EXTERNALLY VENTED CARBURETOR (carb marked 15003-7077).
    Current Operator's Manuals and Technical Manuals say to oil the foam air pre-filter element, this is NOT correct. Do NOT oil the foam element. Manuals are in the process of being revised.
    Solution:

    Verify longer carburetor vent tube is installed and routed correctly. It should extend below the tractor's frame.
    Verify carburetor vent tube is not kinked, blocked, or restricted. Any restriction contributes to rich running. (See SIB # 03-11-30-6 or DTAC solution # 60154.)
    If tractor has optional BM20820 tubular bumper installed, follow DTAC solution # 55586 to verify the exhaust deflector from the kit was installed.
    Air flow through the air filter element may be restricted due to dirt accumulation in the pleats of the filter. Replace air filter paper element and foam filter element. (Don't just check it, replace it.) (NOTE: Foam filter element should NOT be oiled when installing.) Replace with M150403 air filter.
    NOTE: Certain GT245, GX255, and GX335 Lawn & Garden tractors were manufactured with incorrect paper air filter elements. Make sure to replace both the paper air filter element and the foam pre-filter element to insure the correct air filter is clean and being used. The more restrictive, incorrect air filter causes restricted air flow to the engine, therefore this may cause a rich running condition in externally vented carburetors (marked 15003-7077).

    Parts:

    Element M150403 (1) Paper Air Filter (marked "11013-7024", to be used for External vented carburetors only.)

    Element M140295 (1) Foam Air Filter

    Additional Information:

    If the rich running, plug fouling condition returns after implementing the above solution, then (and only then) order & install the following parts:
    (1) M153165 Main Jet (#126)
    (1) M147610 Main Jet (#130)
    (2) M805853 Spark Plugs
    (2) M141357 Carburetor Gaskets
    (1) M140260 Air Filter Gasket
    In addition, order & install new paper (M150403) & foam (M140295) air filter elements.
    NOTE: The #126 main jet should be installed in the number 1 cylinder marked "L", and the #130 main jet should be installed in the number 2 cylinder makred "R". Tighten main jets to 0.7 N-m (6 lb-in). Reference respective Technical Manual for this procedure.
    Again, do not install these "additional" parts unless the "Solution" above has first been tried. If these leaner main jets are installed in all tractors, some tractors may exhibit a lean running condition.

  • deeredoctor
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Above is the bulletin.

    Your RH front rim is not as black as the sparkplug tip. If this was a serious case, the rim and plug would be close to the same color.

    You need to make sure the needle and seat are good and not sticking or have trash binding the needle.

    NO OIL on the foam prefilter.

    Valve lash .003-.005 tdc room temp.

    Check high RPM setting with a tach, just to make sure you are running in the recommended high range. 3350-3400 rpm will help.

    There is a mixture setting. Its hidden, I would do that before changing jet. I don't tell people how to do this, though.

    After you do all that you can do, put a new set of plugs in and run the engine min of 30 min's, let engine cool some and remove plugs and compare plug color.

    The right sparkplug should be tanish to almost white in color.
    The left sparkplug should be brown to tan in color.

  • grassmaster
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    THANKS DEERDOCTOR!!!

    Your info here has helped me out a bunch too! My GX255 has had on a couple of occasions started to run rough/loose power, etc., but changing plugs and air filter seemed to fix it for a while. I have an extremely black inner right wheel, plugs that get sooty quickly, etc.

    The last time I kind of stumbled on most of the cure-- I changed the plugs, new air filter, adjusted the valves, Gumout in the fuel tank, and pulled the carb apart, sprayed it all out with Gumout, put it back together, and my tractor has run better than ever!

    I do have the longer vent tube already. However, the last time I had it apart, I noticed that I was using the internally-vented air filters on my externally-vented carb. I couldn't see any problems with fit, etc., so I kept running them. Now I understand about the restriction of the internal vented air filters being more, so it makes sense that my filters clog up so easily. (However, won't the less-restrictive filters allow more dirt into the engine?)

    Anyway, I'll get the proper filter on it this weekend and see if the carbon generation seems lesser.

    Do you know the NGK # for the plugs mentioned in the service manual? I assume they are hotter-- like maybe a lower number. The ones I am using now are the "4s".

    THANKS AGAIN for your helpful info.

  • dearie245
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi, I'm a newbie. I am trying to change the needle and seat on the carbie. Can someone be so kind and direct me there please? I bought a good used gt245
    and it was running well. It then suddenly decided to start flooding and soak the plugs. I am assuming that the needle and seat needs attention but don't know how to get there.
    Thank you in anticipation.

  • tomplum
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Though likely the float valve, you could have other issues. You can either remove the carb and remove the bowl, or remove the bowl while on the machine if you have the bits and the savvy to do so. Any sign of debris in the system needs to be addressed. You will need to know which carb you have to order parts and view the assembly. How about a new thread?

    Here is a link that might be useful: Deere Parts