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tlbean2004

Flower buds growing on callery pear tree cuttings?

tlbean2004
9 years ago

i took 12 cuttings of a pretty callery flowering pear tree. An original not grafted tree.

This was back on January 10th.
I removed most of the flower buds the ones that i missed are starting to grow larger.

There appears to also be new flower buds/leaf buds that are growing out of the bark. Maybe this is in response to having the other ones removed.

Anyway, should i be worried about this?
will they still root okay anyway?

I know i can just pluck off the flower buds that are swelling but will the new buds that are growing out of the bark prevent the cuttings from rooting?

I have 5 cuttings covered in plastic that are sitting on the water heater to keep them warm and 6 are in a tupperware container that is sitting in a bedroom. Both pairs seem to be progessing the same. Another one is just sitting in the open in my kitchen.

Please advise....

Comments (34)

  • sam_md
    9 years ago

    Whatever growth you are seeing from your cuttings is coming from the carbohydrate reserves from the cutting itself. Before long these reserves will be depleted and the growth will wilt and die.
    Hardwood cuttings taken in January are mostly reserved for shrubs and a small handful of trees (not pears)
    OTOH softwood cuttings are taken in summer and trees such as elm, magnolias, hollies, and Acer rubrum cultivars are routinely propagated from softwood cuttings. You might try callery pear cuttings in June/July using the procedure in this video. What kind of percentage to expect and what quality to expect, I don't know.

    Here is a link that might be useful: J. Frank Schmidt youtube

  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    so does that mean that the cuttings are a waste of my time and that they wont root?

    I read somewhere that you could take the cuttings in the winter while the tree was dormant and before bud break......

  • floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
    9 years ago

    tlbean2004 - you've referred before to your efforts possibly being a waste of time. But since you've already planted them I can't see where any time is being wasted. They'll sit there and do whatever they are, or are not, going to do and you don't need to put any time into them at all other than making sure they don't dry up. And that's not a big consumer of time. It's an experiment and it may fail - or it may not - but you have nothing to lose by leaving them alone and waiting.

  • Embothrium
    9 years ago

    >An original not grafted treeAll superior named clones are likely to have been grafted or otherwise grown vegetatively. Not sure what "original" is intended to mean in this context.

    You should look for what people say under "tree propagation", "tree cuttings" etc. before putting much more into these projects. Hardwood cuttings are usually (but not always) used for shrubs rather than trees - and in either case would not be done in bags inside ordinary heated household rooms.

  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    bboy
    by "original" i mean that it was grown from a seed that was dispersed, likely by the birds.

    And, not from a named clone.
    A seedling.

  • sam_md
    9 years ago

    I read somewhere that you could take the cuttings in winter while the tree was dormant and before bud break....
    Clearly you are mistaken. Show us the reference that you read.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago

    so does that mean that the cuttings are a waste of my time and that they wont root?

    ==>>>

    this was clearly covered in your post a week or so ago ...

    sam apparently missed it ...

    bboy.. the beaner found it on the side of a road.. under a freeway bridge ...

    ken

    Here is a link that might be useful: link

  • Embothrium
    9 years ago

    So it was probably growing as a weed.

  • dbarron
    9 years ago

    IMO, like pretty much all callery pears (weed).

  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    So does anybody have any actual advice????
    Did not post to be bullied about my selection of tree! lol

  • akamainegrower
    9 years ago

    It is probably a good idea to remove the flower buds so that the cuttings' energy goes into producing roots. Allowing a few - not all - of the leaf buds to develop may actually help in rooting.

    It isn't very likely that any roots have started to form yet - January 10th was not very long ago. On the other hand, sometimes everything works in ways that defy the conventional rules and rooting takes place very rapidly. A gentle tug on one of the cuttings should indicate whether roots are growing.

    At this point you seem to have done everything right. I'd keep everything as it is, checking periodically for root formation. If they are going to root, it should, I think, be obvious by the end of March. When they are rooted, gradually reduce the humidity. Transplant into individual pots or keep them in the present containers if they are not overcrowed, still keeping the humidity reasonably high with frequent spraying or a poly tent that is not completely tight. Gradually increase light levels, but watch out for excessive heat. Dilute liquid fertilizer will promote growth. Eventually transplant into individual pots and put outside for the summer. They should be ready for the garden, if still pretty small, by spring of 2016.

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't think anyone was posting in the spirit of being a bully, just informing.

    National Park Service

    Mo Dept of Conservation

    Invasive.org

    And they really do smell bad.

    Article about the smell

  • dbarron
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes Tiffany, I found that flies were the main pollinators of the Bradford I planted in my parents yard when I was in college, and noone knew how bad they were for the environment. Frankly, they STINK!

  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I hope so. I just took 10 new cuttings and used an expensive rooting hormone (Clonex) on them. Lets keep our fingers crossed!

  • wisconsitom
    9 years ago

    Heh, I'll be keeping my fingers crossed alright! Maybe not for the reason you meant, lol!


    +oM

  • lucky_p
    9 years ago

    heheheh, +oM. Mine are crossed for the same reason as yours. Of that, I am certain.

  • dbarron
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm going to start hoping for a callery pear pandemic disease or pest that utterly decimates the population in the Americas, while not causing any other problem...unless it migrates to Japanese honeysuckle or kudzu, after the pears are annihilated.

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    9 years ago

    Yeah I mean these aren't kudzu but still if my neighbor was just planting bamboo all willie nilly I would give him a hard time and try to get some zoysia to go invade his fescue.

  • sam_md
    9 years ago

    give us an update on your pear cuttings.

    tlbean2004 thanked sam_md
  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Sadly none of them rooted. I think because i removed all the buds thinking they were all flower buds. The cuttings had to put energy into making new leaves. When the few leaves unfurled they dried up within days and the wood started to dry out.

    On friday and saturday i went back to the tree and did 5 air layers.

    And i brought some rootstock that was shipped about 2 weeks ago. A few hours ago, i tried my hand at cleft grafting 4 of them. I hope something works because all of this is making me very stressed! If you look closely at the pic you can see my air layers. One thing about this tree is that it does not bloom as profusely as the bradford.

    Here is a pic of the branch structure.



  • Bill
    9 years ago

    I like where this thread is headed, kind of like the final scene of Thelma and Louise.

  • tlbean2004
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Yeah bill, this is getting pretty intense!

  • PRO
    All 4 Bonsai
    8 years ago

    I know thIs thread Is a year old but most pear varIetIes actually root well from hardwood cuttIngs. Even fruItIng pears. I am rootIng Bartlett Pear cuttIngs rIght now. I root cuttIngs and germInate seeds every wInter. I am a bonsaI professIonal.

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    8 years ago

    Do you only sell them for indoor use All 4 Bonsai? I assume you sell them because you have the "pro" tag.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    hardwood cuttings are not taken in January, Bonsai for Pyrus c, which are taken as softwood or semihardwood in ~Jun-Aug. Commercial Pyrus a different animal than this weed.

  • Campanula UK Z8
    8 years ago

    I have hazel, black poplar, numerous fruit bushes, dogwoods, various prunus, lonicera purpusii and lots of roses...hardwood cuttings which I simply stuck in the ground in my wood (sometime in November). A week or so ago, I was idly watching the collie worrying a stick out of the ground before realising it was one of the cuttings. As it didn't simply pull out of the soil, I dug one up to check and was astounded by the rootgrowth. I did have a tug at some of the others and was astonished that they were apparently rooted fast...but am putting it down to a mild and damp winter and (what is becoming apparent to me), rather good soil.

  • PRO
    All 4 Bonsai
    8 years ago

    I sell varIous seedlIngs and rooted cuttIngs but the pears are for me for fruIt productIon. All fruIt trees are normally grafted, Im just statIng that they can and wIll root from hardwood cuttIngs. If the cuttIngs have flower buds they must be removed. Its best to try to get cuttIngs that dont have flower buds. Flower buds are much larger than leaf buds. Also If the temperature Is above 40 degrees roots wIll grow even when trees are dormant. People that thInk trees dont put on roots In wInter are sadly mIstaken. I feed my bonsaI year round, nItrogen fert sprIng-summer and no nItrogen fert fall through wInter. Most dont know thIs but fall-wInter fertIlIzatIon Is the most Important feedIng of the year. ThIs Is when trees store nutrIent and buIld energy for sprIng flourIsh.

  • Campanula UK Z8
    8 years ago

    Yes, I certainly found plenty of growth but had never believed that trees do not grow roots in winter... I also do a late season top up of potassium for the fruit bushes.

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    8 years ago

    All 4 Bonsai, ok, long as you don't sell them where they are listed as invasive.

    You have some interesting observations. In the fall I am worried about fertilizing because it might push new growth which will be damaged in the winter. Do you have problems with that?

  • PRO
    All 4 Bonsai
    8 years ago

    No. Use 0 nItrogen fert lIke 0-10-10 or use a very low nItrogen fert. That Is a myth anyway, when trees are dorment nItrogen wIll not cause them to start growIng. Only temps above 40 for a solId week and more and longer days wIll brIng them out of dormancy. ThInk about It, there Is always nItrogen In the soIl, the tree wIll not use nItrogen when Its dorment. We use zero nItrogen and low nItrogen feeds fall-wInter because an over abundance of nItrogen In the soIl can burn the roots, especIally If Its chemIcal fertIlIze

  • PRO
    All 4 Bonsai
    8 years ago

    If Its organIc no need to worry about burnIng. Also I dIdnt know Bartlett pears are invasive, they are the best fruIt bearIng pear varIty there Is. I know some flowerIng pears are InvasIve In some states such as Bradford pears. They do not produce fruIt. Sorry about the two part post, the fIrst wouldnt let me fInIsh.

  • Embothrium
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Growth of new roots of cold climate adapted trees and shrubs is prompted by hormones coming from opening winter stem buds at shoot tips in spring. In fall existing roots elongate the most of the whole year - this second main rooting period is initiated by the forming and maturing of winter stem buds. During winter in cold climates trees and shrubs effectively hibernate. These facts are why bare rooted nursery stock dug in November is warehoused and shipped for spring planting, and why fall planting of hardy stock not yet in a dormant condition has become advocated - if this is planted in fall before the roots elongate (and roots are not cut back at planting) then immediate establishment can be accomplished.

    Spring: main period of new root growth

    Summer: some root growth

    Fall: main period of elongation of existing roots (60% of annual total)

    Winter: little, if any root growth

    This is the behavior of plants under normal outdoor conditions and not that of propagation material being manipulated with bottom heat or what is seen in other variant situations involving artificial environments.

    One of the main problems faced when overwintering finished stock in plastic shelters is the warming of these enclosures by the sun, resulting in breaking of dormancy and initiation of growth well ahead of spring planting time.

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    8 years ago

    "I didn't know Bartlet pears were invasive"

    They aren't. I read wrong on the cell. My fault, my apologies.