|
| Lately I've been digging out pictures of an experimental planting technique that was suggested to me by a prominent arborist/horticulturist in the area.
The idea is this: why dig a hole that is as deep as and 2-1/2 to 3 times the diameter of the ball when the roots are most likely going to extend near the surface? The softened soil beneath in that large hole surrounding the ball adds to instability since it has been loosened. So, the idea of the flying saucer planting hole was born. I said, "gotta try it, makes sense." I was to give a lecture at "tree day" at the local Extension Service, ergo, the photos. Lost a lacebark elm to an ice storm earlier, wanted a replacement...so, here we go... First, site selection: 
Mark out a 6' diameter hole: 
Strip the sod: 
Outside edge of sod removal allows for future "banking" of mulch: 
Get the ball close to the hole for easy handling later: 
Check the depth of the root flare GENTLY with a screwdriver: 
Make sure that the root flare will be an inch or two above soil level after planting: 
Why they call it the flying saucer!: 
Remove the wire from the BOTTOM of the ball: 
Done: 
Gently into the hole: 
Remove top wire and nylon string: 
Then as much burlap as possible (notice where the main rooting is going to grow - through the loosened top of the soil: 
Backfill, water in slowly and thouroughly: 
Finished backfill: 
The low figure 8 staking to prevent rubbing on the tree while stabilizing it. Yeah, I know in a previous post that I said I prefer thick nylon rope through the hose, which I do now! Only had some wire back then...: 
After mulching, run your finger around the base to keep the mulch off of the bark: 
The finished planting: 
And finally, 7 years later: 
Thanks for your patience!!!
|
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| Excellent pictorial! Probably could have pulled some soil away to actually expose the flare? I have to say this is the only way I have ever planted a b&b plant. Can't say I did it as perfect as you did! |
|
| This was for an audience! Ya think I do this all the time? LOL! However, worked like a charm... hortster |
|
| I think you should publish a guide/handout/pamphlet with these pics. And make sure every mom and pop nursery gets a copy. Makes me sad I left the wire around my BnB trees. John |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Thu, Mar 29, 12 at 8:51
| is your soil somewhat clay??? is that why you plant the flare 2 inches up ... the only pic you missed.. was the pic of this hanging out the back of your 71 pinto hatchback. .. lol .. dont you love landscape paint ... perfect circle there .. thx for the pictorial ... ken |
Here is a link that might be useful: link
|
| WOW...Well done !!! A-Z...Enjoyable. |
|
| ken, not "somewhat", but TOTALLY good ol' KS clay, 7.3 to 7.6 pH. In the yard pockets are either red or black, or red and black - they smeared the stuff around pretty good when building the subdivision. hortster |
|
| Great job! The hardest part for me would be getting all the grass out. A labor of love. |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, Mar 30, 12 at 9:23
| you should sell your pics to brandon.. so he could incorporate them into his tree/shrub planting bible ... the ONLY thing i would complain about.. is that your title is basically not GW searchable.. which leaves the burden on us.. to link peeps back to this brilliant post ... ken |
|
| Sell!!! Don't you mean donate? LOL |
|
| This baby is in the public domain. 'Tis for whoever may want or use it, hope it does some good for someone...worked for me! Go, brandon7...(starting to get into ken_a.'s pauses...) hortster |
|
| horster I think this is a super post for people to use. Cher |
|
- Posted by tsugajunkie z5 SE WI (My Page) on Fri, Mar 30, 12 at 19:55
| Hortster that was one fine job. You not only took good care of the tree, but I see your trailer thingy made it through those years as well. tj P.S. Nice patina on the fence now too! |
|
| You made planting a tree into art, what a great step by step! Oh and the 7 year stretch makes it even more impressive |
|
- Posted by lou_midlothian_tx z8 DFW, Tx (My Page) on Sun, Apr 1, 12 at 11:53
| Very nice planting hole! It's impossible to do in my rocky soil. Lacebark Elm does very well in my neighborhood. Turns into a nice shade tree in no time from a stick. I'd recommend it if anyone wants a shade tree right away rather than waiting 10-15 years to finally get some shade. Some people have no patience... |
|
- Posted by Randy31513 none (My Page) on Sun, Apr 1, 12 at 12:11
| Wonderful post. So interesting an informative. LOL Now lets see you move it. |
|
| Hi, I just bought my first lacebark elm tree and I wanted to know how far I should plant it from the fence. My house is facing east and west so I get morning and afternoon sun exposure. The tree is in a 30 gallon pot so how wide should be the hole and how deep should I plant it? Thank you for your feedback |
|
| Eugenie, If you want to discuss your particular situation further, you may want to consider beginning your own thread. Doing so will allow responses to be emailed to you instead of the original poster, ensure the original poster of this thread is not bothered by responses not directly related to the original topic, be less confusing for readers, and create less congestion in future forum searches. But, to briefly address your questions... I don't think you have given us enough information about the scenario, and especially about the fence, to answer your question related to the fence. If you start your own thread, you might even consider posting pictures of the planting site. When considering how to plant your tree, do consider that Hortster's technique is "experimental", and, while it approximates many of the currently accepted planting practices, it's not what I would consider the accepted standard (not to suggest that some single standard really exists). You may want to consider the points provided in the link following this paragraph as well as other information when making your decisions. I will also include a link to a generic rootball size chart which may help you with that question. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Trees Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.