|
| I have a young Crataegus phaenopyrum I panted last fall as a ~1' stick. It has grown very well already this spring doubling in height and width easily and still actively growing. It did not (of course) flower/fruit being so young. It developed orange spots on the leaves about 2 weeks ago or so. I am concerned this is some type of rust (I am not too worried which one because...) and I would rather pull it out while young and put something else there than put up with it getting this every year. I knew when I purchased and planted it this would be a possibility but I didn't think it would happen so soon. I have also not found any native hawthorns in the area although several kinds are listed as native.
I also have 3 crabapples that have not had a rust infection yet but will be on the lookout now.
|
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| Does it matter that it gets rust except for how it looks? |
|
| At this point it doesn't matter, but fuzzy fruit will bother me immensely when the time comes. I could dispose of the fruit while tree is small, but it will outgrow my means (and desire) to pluck the hairy fruits when it gets larger. Then it will just be an eyesore to me. It is currently occupying a spot I had picked out for a sassafras but I could not locate any locally for sale and substituted this hawthorn instead. I will be growing some sassafras from seed in 6" net pots over the next year, though. John |
|
| I was just curious - not just from your perspective but from others as well since there have been several posts about rust lately. I have quite a few different hawthorn species, I have juniper and I have crabapple (wild). The crabapples show the rust the most (leaves get the rust almost immediately) while the hawthorns seem unaffected. I have seen the rust on one juniper so far. |
|
| Interesting... I have a Malus angustifolia I forgot about in the OP about a 100 yards or so away that doesn't have any signs rust yet. It is also a baby and growing very well... almost identical to the hawthorn. I have not seen the rust on any junipers yet but they are so darn abundant, it could be anywhere including my lot and I might not know. John |
|
| Hmmm, perhaps we should trade some stock! |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Apr 24, 12 at 15:24
| i dont have any clue.. why it is an issue??? what.. if your plant isnt 100% perfect.. its carp and has to be put to death?? you should fell lucky your wife doesnt hold the same views.. regarding her spouse.. crimminey ... ken ps: its not like we are talking about production of salable fruit.. and require perfection ... its like you want to live and garden 'in nature' .. but when she gives you the 'natural effect'.. you reject all and try to fight it.. whats that all about.. i suggest you nuke the yard with thousands of gallons of chemicals.. so you can live in a near perfect .. plasticized environment.. which basically.. has NOTHING TO DO with reality ... end of daily rant .. thx for allowing the opportunity ... pps: if you dont want the fruit.. kill it ... |
|
| Blah blah blah... I actually let nature do its thing and if she doesn't kill it, it gets to stay for 90% of the stuff. But the few ornamental things I plant for selfish pleasure have little margin for error to exploit. If the maples or oaks get a borer or black spots on a few leaves, no big deal. If a plant with ornamental fruit gets a disease that disfigures the fruit, why keep it around? Especially when I have 20-30 alternatives growing under a shadecloth tent by the shed? I am actually contemplating getting rid of it because I DON'T WANT to use chemicals to prevent the rust from developing each year. That is fighting nature which is the opposite of finding a suitable replacement that is not as disease prone. Might as well get started on my pure american strain chestnut plantings and be happy when nature kills them back to the root collar! :p John |
|
| Definitely - if you would use chemicals to fight it, then get rid of it (like you said you have things waiting in the wings - good things!). Gardening should not be any more of a chore than you want it to be and we should not need to use chemicals (also a chore) to achieve the end. But at least you gave Ken something to talk about .... |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Wed, Apr 25, 12 at 9:08
| jon knows he is not my sole audience ... too many newbies.. are to prone to over-reacting.. and going to 'cures' ... when i all reality ... its just not necessary all that often ... besides .. he dances and had a pink suit ken |
|
| Well, I moseyed on over to the m angustifolia today and what do you know, RUST (and something else)! Still none anywhere on the PF and HG.
|
|
| Personally I would watch it for 2-3 years to see if it's a chronic pattern and if so and this is unacceptable, remove before it gets too big. I've broken down and am spraying the Amelanchier in the front garden this year, with an organic copper solution from Gardens Alive for rust. Last year it was so bad there berries all shriveled up and the foliage was horrible! This tree is in a very focal spot and it's getting pretty big, and I want it to look good. If a bit of fungicide doesn't work then I'm getting rid of the thing. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Trees Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.