We don't have enough information to tell for sure what caused the leaf loss for your trees, but I'd bet it has to do with improper watering, possibly combined with improper planting. Please describe how you water and how you determine when to water. Also, describe (in as much detail as possible) how you planted your trees. Did you amend the soil? Did you remove the burlap (if any was present)?

Within the gallery of woody plants there is a complete range of types adapted to infertile soils, moderately fertile soils and highly fertile soils. Perhaps the most vibrant deciduous magnolia I have seen here was one growing in a border among hybrid tea roses and herbaceous flowering ornamentals where there was no doubt regular substantial fertilization and other use of chemicals taking place. A great many other deciduous magnolias and other trees and shrubs in local plantings have a chronically starved appearance. The usual deficiency in my area is that of nitrogen.

Actually, we do in this case. The plant is going through a significant period of stress and probably transplant shock. Even if this was one of those rare cases where more of some nutrient was needed, this is not the time to address that need AND no determination of what nutrient(s) are missing has been made. The loss of leaves is certainly NOT being cased by lack of nutrients. As discussed above, this is like force-feeding a child with the flu. Even if the child was, for some unusual reason, being malnourished, force feeding during this stressful time is NOT the answer!

Pam's pictures were not attached. They 'might' shed some light on the situation.

and june is NOT prime planting season in the deep south.. is it ..

and we have no clue as to the size of the transplant ...

and i wonder about the dichotomy between a peaty potting media in a large pot.. going into that famous GA red clay ...

but my best guess is.. insufficient water .. thru the whole root zone... and then near drying.. before the next deep watering ...

there is no other real reason for leaf loss.. other than disturbed roots that are not pumping enough water to maintain the canopy ... and that is tied up in all the other variables i mentioned ... and summed up as WATER MANAGEMENT ..

ken

Osmanthus fragrans seen in my area are often having problems with discoloration, tip dieback etc., depending on the conditions occurring at the time. But we have coolness for long periods, and it sometimes gets too cold for this shrub on many sites here. A type grown for many years on a greasy clay slope in the Seattle arboretum is probably a different one from those being carried at outlets, as it is apparently not so fussy and delicate.

Yes, for non-stressed woody plants, saying that they never need fertilization would be wrong. In certain cases, soil nutrients can be missing. In these particular cases, woody plants can benefit from PROPER fertilization. Randomly applying fertilizer (and especially "complete" fertilizers) is NEVER a good idea. Improper fertilization is a significant cause of problems and failure in woody landscape plants.

Here, the OP has a plant that is suffering/has suffered a significant amount of stress/shock. Arguing "for" fertilization is akin to a doctor giving a mom advise to make sure her kid eats heartily when she comes in for advise about how to address her child's flu symptoms. The advise is mistargeted and WILL NOT solve the problem at hand. On top of that, without the proper caveats, I don't really think it's even good advise, period.

I've seen woody plants improve pretty dramatically after mulch was applied, with no other treatment.

I'll also suggest that the watering frequency is an issue. If you're applying water for just a couple of minutes at a time, that won't accomplish anything. If you are watering deeply three times a week...that's too darned much water.

Plants should be watered deeply so that you feel reasonably sure that there is moisture several inches into the soil. You can't feel that with your fingers. With layer of mulch on top, such a watering can last for weeks.

Your watering frequency is probably encouraging the plants to develop a very shallow root system.

All that being said...it doesn't appear to me that your Osmanthus was a particularly thriving one in the first place. It just seemed a little on the 'lean' side. We also don't know if you amended the hole when you planted...something that is not recommended, even in clay soil. We don't know if you planted too deeply or 'high and dry' as is usually suggested for clay soils. Does your soil drain well? That can be an issue for some locations and a real problem with clay soils.

So, with so many unknowns, all I would feel comfortable suggesting is the addition of mulch (always a good idea) and the change in the watering schedule.

The only person who can say for sure what your tree needs is YOU. I personally believe your tree has been under-watered...do I have proof, no, but why not deeply water it once a week and see what happens?

With my soil I could run the hose on FULL speed nonstop til the cows come home, pull the hose up, and 1 minute later the water has fully drained, but what does that have to do with your soil? My watering habits are no prescription for your's.

The tree is under stress; water it. Water is the basis for life, yes, I know too much water is bad, but I would doubt that over watering is the problem here.

I totally agree with mulching the tree. I wouldn't put any tree in the ground without mulch. It's like their own little baby blanket. lol