Big trees create unwanted saplings in various ways. Some, like the live oak, send up volunteers from feeder roots. Others, like the Chinese pistache, produce a fruit or berry, which birds scatter over the area. Then there are seed forming trees, like elms and hackberries, who let the wind do the dispersal. The worst thing you can do is mow over or cut these saplings, whatever their origin. They will just spring back stronger than ever, from the roots. I have to contend with "volunteers" from each of the species I just mentioned. Where feasible, I just hit them with a little squirt of Roundup, taking care not to get any on surrounding plants. Others, I grab at the base, with heavy pliers, and pull up.

What you really need to do is decide what tree you want, and research its propensities.

the first thing you need do.. IMHO ... is ID the tree... and then get rid of it.. IDing it.. only to insure you dont buy another ...

post a pic of the whole... a leaf.. and a flower if any.. if we cant ID it... the name that plant peeps will ...

killing carp trees is good for the environment ... IMHO ... especially if you replace it with a quality tree for your locale... wherever that may be ...

never knew anyone who covered two zones in one garden ...

good luck

ken

Well my city, West Valley, says Zone 7, and the two main zips say either 5 or 7. Based on the zip, I am a 5, but most places I read just said 7. Were talking the difference of less than 1 mile.

I will go ID the tree. I also have a list I am compiling on trees to buy, and researching what I can get, and the type I want, maintenance is an issue if I am getting tons of little trees. I want two feature trees.

I got a split entry home facing west, with sets of windows on left and right side, and I want big spreading trees covering those windows. Plus to the one side, I want a row of some kind of bushes/trees to build a wall, because I got these two very very tall trees and a huge bush, and the two trees suck, one fell on my neighboors house, and the other still stands. The bush ain't bad, but I live on a curve at top of a hill, so it blocks drivers views.

I was looking at getting a set of maple trees or mixed with something else for the two feature trees in front. Then going to do assorted other things in front garden beds, and back yard. Where the tree I am going to cut down, either putting up a new storage shed, or a row of privacy bushes/trees,

> Question 1:
> Do all trees grow "little trees" around their roots, or
> around the tree while alive? Or is it only when dying or cut
> down?

Based on your description of how the little trees "mess up the lawn", it sounds like you are dealing with suckers (new shoots that grow off of an existing root system), not seedlings (new trees that grow from seed from a mature specimen). Most tree seedlings don't have the reserves necessary for continuous regeneration if they get mowed down regularly, but suckers do. So, based on what you are likely actually dealing with (suckers), no, many trees do not regularly produce them.

This is good to know. I want simple front yard and exotic backyard.

I think the name of the tree is called a "quaky". Mine aren't tall like ones in wild, but they definitely look like the ones online trunk and leaf, and it is what my Dad told me they are. All pictures online show quaky's being hundreds of them by each other. Which is what my back yard would look like if I didn't mow.

Ah, that clears it up a lot. Quaking Aspen, Populus tremuloides, is a notorious suckering tree which, in nature, tends to form large colonies of itself. Essentially, very large area of trees is actually one "organism", all connected by roots. In fact, some of them are thought to be among the oldest continuously living organisms on Earth.

Here is a link that might be useful: Quaking Aspen article on Wikipedia (complete with a photo I took)

I wouldn't mind my own "quaky" forest, but I want a grassy backyard. I think I figured it out, that tree is just a problem child, and others have their problems, if I pick the right tree, I won't have to deal with certain problems. I think I have put up with the worst of what is out there, falling big trees, spreading roots, cracking cement, vines getting in siding, and just terrible placement.

I read my Willow is a problem because they tip, but it has actually been hit by lightning, and fallen twice, so technically the branch going straight up, is actually like its left arm! But last summer I put a ton of dirt around it surrounded by huge rocks to make a tree ring, to hide all the old roots that stuck up above ground and all the ones that were raised when it fell. So now she is firmly held to the ground.
.

If you know any tree that fits this description, that would be awesome:

-Planted on west side of house to cover left and right side windows
-Can plant in next 2 weeks (or later in time)
-Large Shading tree for house, and not so much grass.
-Going to have about 10 feet in every direction to cement.
-Low Maintenance (doesn't drop anything except leaves)
-Doesn't attract bugs, or easily managed
-Looks good
-Won't fall down with solid roots
-Fits my 5-7 zones, basically Salt Lake

My list of "not to gets" that I don't think fit my needs for my two feature trees:
Aspens
Mimosas
Honey Locust
Cottonwood
Linden
Ash
Willow
Eucalyptus
Mountain Ceder

My List of potentials so far:
River Birch
Sugar Maple
Red Maple
Silver Maple

The silver maple is an under appreciated / over planted fellow. They grow fast here but come apart fairly quickly. I miss the one that was out in my front yard but with its rotting trunk and falling branches over my neighbor's driveway it was time.

For red maple, get a named cultivar.

Sugar maple is more natural looking than the acer rubrum clones imo. How large do they get in your microclimate?

Big Tooth Maple is native to Utah. That is the one you should plant. Leaf color can be gorgeous in the fall.