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| Our backyard is a blank slate - 38' wide x 40' deep. We are wanting to plan the flower beds along the back of our yard this weekend - with the main goal getting some trees in the ground! There are no other trees planted in neighboring backyards as this is a new development area.
I have been researching trees for a few weeks now and am struggling on choosing the right trees for yard. We would like "some" privacy and shade but we don't ever expect the yard to be completely private as my husband does not like cedar/juniper hedges. I am not a big fan of large evergreen trees. I wanted to put a grouping of trees in the right corner of our lot - I was thinking 3 Swedish Columnar Aspens or 3 Asian White Birch trees. We would like to block out some views of the neighbors yard. In the left corner we were thinking about a larger tree - 20-30 foot diameter at full size. Partnered with a weeping white spruce to the right of it. I was looking at a pink kousa, tricolour beech, or paper bark maple. I also thought that a service berry tree would be nice, but my step mom has told me that this is a bush and it doesn't live very long. (Although I am sure I have seen it as a tree at the garden center). As I am very new to gardening - I thought maybe someone here could review my ideas and let me know your opinion? Our house faces NW , so we have full sun in our backyard. It is fairly windy in my area. I have also made this sketch in Photoshop to try and visualize the trees at their full size in the yard. The deck is already in place. Will will only be working on the back of the garden this year.
Any feedback would be very much appreciated! |
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| Your yard is too small to hold all those trees over the long term. There are some farther along Kousa around that could reach all the way across it, just by themselves. One 'Purpurea Tricolor' beech could fill your yard and part of one next door. It all depends on how long of a time span you are planning for. But I bet you would be happier later if you had been thinking in terms of shrubs where you are currently looking at trees, in most instances. |
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- Posted by WoodstockJW none (My Page) on Fri, May 18, 12 at 0:04
| Thanks for the feedback bboy. We did purchase some trees today - we plan to be in this home for 10 - 15 years so if the trees need to come out eventually they can and it would be the issue of the next home owner. We purchased a paper bark maple for the left corner and a red fox katsura which will be sandwiched between two pyramidal horn beam trees. Well, spaced 8 feet apart. Looking forward to planting this weekend. |
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- Posted by toronado3800 Z6 St. Louis (My Page) on Fri, May 18, 12 at 1:12
| I like both trees. Make sure you get them planted at the correct depth. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, May 18, 12 at 7:33
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- Posted by mackel_in_dfw (My Page) on Sat, May 19, 12 at 12:51
| Very good link, however- "...the root flare (the location on the trunk where the top of the first root departs from the trunk)..."- I totally disagree with this definition.. Usually in the potted trees I have examined, there are adventitious roots above the root flare that should be cut. The root flare also is not always as pronounced so at times it's a wag where the trunk ends, and the roots begin...so, I feel for a pronounced root flare before purchsing. If it aint obvious where the swelling occurs, that tree gets rejected as a purchase. A non-obvious root flare ofen indicates a top heavy and underdeveloped root system. The fatter that flare is on purchase I have the best luck with establishment. Also, I prefer branching that goes all the way down to near the bottom of the trunk, they establish roots and wind resistance fast. A tree for the most part should never have more than a third of the height of it's trunk bare, and if it does, it gets rejected, as well. Aesthetically, I also favor the full branching later on, I don't need to mow under a tree, I'm trying to get rid of the lawn. I can walk around my back yard, I don't need to walk around the front yard, so I hesitate to limb a tree up for years, and in the meantime, the tree develops way faster that way and self-shades much of it's root zone. Mackel |
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