My question is, what is the best way to get rid of them?

The tree is understoried by irises and liriope, if that plays into this decision. I've researched it and come up with a variety of options, but I was wondering if one is better/easier/safer than the others.

Thanks,

Hunter

Something that you should do this coming winter is spray your tree a couple of times with a horticultural oil, even a dormant oil. Oil applications can do wonders to nip the aphid cycle in the bud by smothering eggs. Spray bare branches thoroughly.

What kind of Crape Myrtle is this, if you don't mind me asking?

I've been spraying with water, starting today. The tree is about 3.5' tall, so it's in a pretty fragile stage after it's transplant. I accidentally hit it with a high pressure and knocked off a good few leaves, but I figured out a setting on the nozzle that does a better job. I'm spraying about 3 times per day and I hope that handles most of the problem. It's impossible to get all of them.

Is there a certain type of insect that I should buy if this problem persists? I know the greenhouse at school uses predation of this sort, but I didn't know how effective it would be in an outdoor setting such as this. I know they buy them by the tube and release them.

From my research the Catawba was a fairly disease and mildew resistant hybrid, but I didn't even look into aphid resistance when I chose the plant.

You can also add a commercial insecticidal soap to your routine, and if conditions are right (like after the sun goes down), an application of Neem oil. Please don't forget the use of a dormant season application of horticultural oil. I keep Volck Oil on hand for winter spraying. It will truly make a difference.

Using any kind of predator insects for ONE little tree would not be a worthy use of your money. Perhaps some ladybugs (and other predators and parasites) will find your tree on their own.

Can we see a picture of the whole tree?

I'd get tired of the bother of repeated spraying, unless a time or two would do it.

Richard.

My parents recommended 7 Dust?

Rhizo, I tried to take a picture of the entire tree but my phone is acting up and won't take photos. It's a very small tree as I just planted it this past winter. It is about 4 feet tall.

Sad to say but any plant that is a "magnet " for a particular pest or disease will retain that predisposition for its life. There are cultural and chemical measures you can take....every year (several times a year) but you'll battle the problem always.

Sevin is not the way to go. Aphids are prey to a host of predatory and parasitic critters. Sevin will kill all of them, too. This often results in a serious population explosion of an assortment of pests.
Sevin is also extremely toxic to bees.

Speaking of bees and all other pollinators, systemic insecticides enter the vascular system of plants, tainting pollen and nectar.

There are other, softer, pesticides you can try. Horticultural oils (as mentioned earlier) can be extremely helpful. These would include Neem oil which acts as an anti -feedant, insect growth regulator, as well as physically smothering overwintering eggs and living aphids.

I have a small pump sprayer with a separate nozzle attachment that directs spray UP. It allows me to hold the wand down at the base of the plant, while the product I'm spraying covers the underside of the foliage.

If I were you? I'd do all I could do to control aphids with the least toxic means possible. If you begin seeing black sooty mold all over the leaves and branches, you're losing the battle. Avoid excess fertilization with high nitrogen products; this plant is not a heavy feeder. If, after a year or two, you are still battling a constant battle.....OFF WITH ITS HEAD!

If it was me I would use water, insecticidal soap if it got really bad, and horticultural oil during dormancy.
If I could not control it that way then I would let the plant sink or swim on its own and if it sank I would make damn sure I chose a replacement wisely.
What I would not do is pollute my property with a substance that drove away the good insects.

But I am pretty sure it would not sink- minus any control the aphids would get really really bad, the plant would look like doody, but at about that point the predatory insect brigade would sweep in and put the situation back in balance.

And balance is what I strive for- balance means allowing predatory insects to live and do their thing while also accepting the odd pest and cosmetic damage. The pendulum may swing toward more pests then to less pests but eventually will settle somewhere in the middle and a happy medium will be the long term result.

Yes, it works very well on all types of sucking insects, aphids, scale, mealybugs, whitefly. And it generally does provide season-long protection. I use it routinely on my potted plants and as needed on in-ground plants.