For more on this topic...

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Fact Sheet

The hole should be 3 to 5 times as wide as the root ball.
When the soil is filled back in it should be broken up very good so there will be no air pockets around the roots. A tree properly planted can live twice as long and be much healthier than one planted wrong. Also a tree of this size will need to be staked and tied with soft material that won't cut into the trunk until it can establish good roots so it wonÂt blow over.

Here is a little guide I made for planting trees:
{{gwi:361982}}

This is AWESOME!!! Very straight and easy to follow. You rock treeguy123!!!

Thanks again!

Oh, by the way, I also read somewhere that some trees,plants, or shrubs requires an acidic soil. What does acidic mean? How do we make an acidic soil?

Here are some links you can read and learn about Soil pH:

Soil pH
Soil pH
Changing the pH of Your Soil

If there are deformed roots hidden inside that slit, pot-shaped compacted root mass 4 slits won't take care of them. It also won't deal with the soil texture difference problem to leave the potting soil (or field soil, in the base of B & B) in place.

You can carefully make up to six or eight slits around the soil ball if it's a large tree, and check deep inside the ball like bboy said to make sure there are none hidden near the center of the soil ball. Cut off any disfigured or circling roots. The main thing is to make sure the roots grow outward and not around or in odd directions which can lead to decline in several years and many other serious problems and can eventually lead to death. Trees with soil around the roots usually are the least affected by transplant shock as long as the roots in the soil are not disturbed too much, so it is best to be gentle on handling/planting and keep as much soil around the roots as possible while keeping them moist. DonÂt let the roots dry out in the wind.

Adding organic amendments to the backfill soil has been a source of controversy and is still found in many planting and transplanting recommendations. Recent research at a number of universities has shown that the addition of large amounts of organic matter (peat moss, compost, ground bark, etc.) does not improve plant growth and may actually have a detrimental effect. If the plant is to be planted in a highly compacted soil, the addition of organic matter to the planting hole may create a constantly wet condition, leading to root rots, or it may create an ideal condition which the roots will never leave. The greater the difference between the structure and texture of the soil in the planting hole and that of the native soil, the greater the possibility of problems.
So use the soil you dug out of the hole, the tree will adjust to the conditions as its roots start to explore and grow outward.

what if there was a cloth that wraps the soil? I think, they call it burlap. Do I tell them to remove the cloth and the wire?

Hello,
I planted a stewartia about 3 years back, I did
not cut slits in the root ball when I removed it from the
container.

The tree did have some die back past 2 years and now seems
to have established.

What are the symptoms of the roots growing in a circular
direction? As I did not separate the roots before planting
will the tree become root choked in a couple of years?

Anything I need to do this later in the game or will I be
OK planting the container tree without creating the slits
in the root ball?

Yes they need to remove all the wire and preferably the burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap).

Here are some examples of root girdling which can make the tree slowly decine and choke itself off:

{{gwi:362819}}

{{gwi:361983}}

Read some more here
http://www.tlcfortrees.info/mulching_staking.htm

Oops lol, I meant the burlap should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap). I wish you could edit you own messages on here.

Virtuousity, have them remove the wire. The burlap should come off it at all possible - DEFINITELY if it is a synthetic. If it's jute/natural, then they CAN leave the lower portion, but they MUST cut away the top, down to about 3" below ground level. Taking all of it off would be best, but it should rot eventually. They will probably tell you it isn't necessary to remove the wire or the burlap, but be persistant and insist. Leaving both can inhibit the roots from growing out.

Gauras, after 3 years, I think there's not too much to be done. If the tree is doing well now, then it probably has a good root system going. The danger in circling roots is that they can "strangle" both each other, and, if near the surface, the trunk of the tree as the tree and the root grow and get fatter. Plus, if the root growth-pattern is to go round and round, the roots are less likely to immediately start to go out into the surrounding soil, so are less likely to be healthy, sturdy roots, supporting a healthy, sturdy tree. It sounds like a healthy tree is what you have.

If you are really worried, very carefully digging down in a few places around the tree will tell you if the root system is healthy or not. If it is out to at least the drip line of the Stewartia, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. If the roots are still mostly in the planting hole, then you probably do have a problem - whether from circling roots or from too welcoming a planting hole - see above - and in that case I would very, very carefully dig it up, make a new hole or majorly alter the existing one, and replant it. Mulch it well, and water it carefully as though it were newly planted (it IS) for the next year. Water it well the day before you dig, so it's hydrated. Try to do this on an overcast day, and NOT just before the forecast calls for record heat. Just before rain would be very good. Waiting until fall would be even better, and not obsessing about it would improve things as well.

IF that's the case, it happened, you learned something, and (however much money you did pay for it) it is a tree and not an arm or a leg, or a child. It's not the end of the world. I'm NOT trying to belittle your worry, just trying to put it in perspective.....

While doing a search about girdling roots a few months ago, I came upon this page I found interesting (especially the Video Series) :

http://www.righttreerightplace.com/planting/howTo.asp

>Adding organic amendments to the backfill soil has been a source of controversy and is still found in many planting and transplanting recommendations. Recent research at a number of universities has shown that the addition of large amounts of organic matter (peat moss, compost, ground bark, etc.) does not improve plant growth and may actually have a detrimental effect."Research findings and new technology are slow to be incorporated into nursery and landscape practices. Tradition is important and has a distinct place in our society, however, blind allegiance to tradition stymies progress. In 1968, a study was begun to determine the "optimum" amount of soil amendments to use in the planting hole since recommendations varied from 5% to 50% by volume. The optimum amount turned out to be none."

--C.E. Whitcomb, ESTABLISHMENT AND MAINTENANCE OF LANDSCAPE PLANTS

Here is a link that might be useful: Establishment and Maintenance of Landscape Plants II

Thanks everyone for all your help. Honestly, I learned a lot. The videos that was shared by olivier_northfrance was very helpful too!

treeguy123,

I'm sorry, I was looking at your drawing again. What are slits?

I made this to maybe explain it well.
This is a top view of a rootball.

{{gwi:362820}}

oh, what tool do we use to make a slit then?

And also, looking at the picture, it's for small plants. Can we do it for big ball for trees as well?

Most just use a large pocket knife and cut around halfway deep or so. If you need to cut the circling roots of large soil ball just carefully spread the soil open as you cut a little deeper. I think about 5 or 6 evenly spaced slits would be about right. Don't cut too deep because you might cut the main roots near the trunk base. You can check deeper by feeling with your hand to see if there are any more circling roots deep inside but usually there are hardly any deep inside.

Notice that in above drawing roots at center, near trunk are oriented in the desired natural way. This cannot be counted on at all. Stock with knotted roots near the base of the stem is very common. If these are not visible on the top of the soil or rootball, barerooting the plant will be required to reveal them. If there is a tight fist of roots right at the base of the trunk, that cannot be opened up the tree or shrub is essentially worthless. Barerooting the specimen will have saved you the trouble of planting one that had eventual failure built in.

Virtuosity,
"I want to buy an 8 to 10' tree soon."
Best of luck to you with your new tree. Look over Olivier's link, it seems to have some good advice. The drawings clearly show a dormant tree. Moving a tree with several inches of soft growth is tricky business. Surely no one on this thread is suggesting that an 8 to 10' tree should be barerooted in mid-May.
Sam

I wish I had this info 5 years ago! I finally bit the bullet and dug around the trunk of my Cladrastis -- yep, the root ball covered up about 8" too much of the trunk. I planted it following the accepted advice of the time, top of rootball slightly above ground level. Come fall, should we try to gently regrade the area around the tree, should we try digging it up (it's well over 8ft tall), or should I just paste a smile on my face and look for another 1 to plant in the vicinity in anticipation of this 1s demise? This tree was to take the place of a doomed Norway maple that we have yet to cut down because we need the shade & were waiting for the Cladrastis to provide enough. Wouldn't it be ironic if the Maple outlived the Cladrastis? Starting last year, I began to remove all the soil from any container grown trees prior to planting and treating them as bare root. I think I will be doing that from now on.

On another discussion a laceleaf Japanese maple was barerooted recently in hot southern California. It was said to have been sporting soft new growth, as would be expected. If there is any tree that has delicate spring shoots, it is a laceleaf maple. After the operation it was reported to be doing great.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fragile Roots

During the noon hour the weather guy comes on. He is very entertaining, he shaved his head and painted it purple to support the B'more Ravens. When he has some time to kill he gives gardening advice. Although he is not very credible I will say he keeps us laughing. I would expect him to lump cabbages, petunias and maples all together. Barerooting maples in mid-May is something he might recommend.
Here is a reality check. Tree growers make a considerable capital investment in cold-storage units. The only use for these buildings is to store bareroot trees and keep them dormant until shipment or planting. Working in there is dark, cold and muddy.
In my area field-digging has come to a screeching halt, everything has put on several inches of growth. Field-growers don't start their summer digging schedule until after the solstice when the growth has hardened off.
A tree which is barerooted when it has fully leafed out is a dead tree in a matter of minutes.
Here's a novel idea, if a containerized tree has circling roots why not reject it? Why should the customer butcher up the roots of a newly purchased tree? Have the pot removed at the nursery, if it is rootbound find another tree. Rootbound trees likely have been held over from the previous year (or two). Even when they are marked down, they are no bargain.
If I bought an appliance, found it defective, I would return it. Only Homer Simpson would correct the problem by kicking it around.
The preoccupation with barerooting container trees is entertaining, but like our weatherman, hardly credible.
Sam

bboy posted:
>Adding organic amendments to the backfill soil has been a source of controversy and is still found in many planting and transplanting recommendations. Recent research at a number of universities has shown that the addition of large amounts of organic matter (peat moss, compost, ground bark, etc.) does not improve plant growth and may actually have a detrimental effect."Research findings and new technology are slow to be incorporated into nursery and landscape practices. Tradition is important and has a distinct place in our society, however, blind allegiance to tradition stymies progress. In 1968, a study was begun to determine the "optimum" amount of soil amendments to use in the planting hole since recommendations varied from 5% to 50% by volume. The optimum amount turned out to be none."

--C.E. Whitcomb, ESTABLISHMENT AND MAINTENANCE OF LANDSCAPE PLANTS

How I wish someone would tell this to the lame landscaper guy from 'This Old House'.

Certain talking hortheads out here also continue to spew stale information. Or they've heard about "new technology" but don't seem to get it, telling viewers to 'amend the entire potential rooting area' a whopping three or four feet across - for a tree.

treeguy123,

Your picture tree planting guide is not showing up anymore. Looks like imageshack deleted it. Can you post it again please?

Thanks,

Ron

Treeguy123,
I find your information quite helpful and you seem very knowledgeable. Wondering if you could help me out on a pH issue? I have a river birch tree showing signs of chlorosis. It has happened in the past also. No, I haven't done the pH soil test. Thinking about it. However, I am a bit confused on all the suggestions for changing the pH. Would aluminum sulfate give me the quickest results at this point? Or should I use chelated iron with a root feeder?
Thanks for your input.

Here you go Ron:
{{gwi:362821}}

River birch often develops iron chlorosis (yellow foliage) in alkaline soils where the pH is greater than 6.5 to 7.5 Slightly alkaline soils can be made more acidic if you add soil amendments, though it can be difficult to maintain the soil pH over the life span of a tree (discuss this with your county extension agent). Soil tests can be obtained at many county extension offices and some nurseries. They seem to be tolerant of soils that are in the 4.5 to 7.5 range (4.5 is acidic to 7.0 which is neutral) Your soil is probably alkaline range of 7.5 or higher.

Info on iron chlorosis:
Briefly, iron chlorosis is a yellowing of plant leaves caused by iron deficiency, usually in high pH soils (pH above 7.0).
Other causes of yellowing need to be ruled out first, however. For example, leaf yellowing can be due to insect or disease problems (pathogenic diseases caused by fungi or other organisms), herbicide misuse, or a history of over watering.
Leaves with iron chlorosis will develop a yellow color with a network of dark green veins. In severe chlorosis even the veins may turn yellow or the leaf may even turn white. The outer edges also may scorch and turn brown as the cells die.
Though iron deficiency is more likely, high soil pH also can cause manganese deficiency with similar looking chlorosis. Control of iron chlorosis is not easy and can be expensive, so prevention is better than treatment.

More info about this:
About Iron Chlorosis
Iron Chlorosis Treating
Iron Chlorosis
Iron Chlorosis