Sorry that the photos didn't load into the post... just copy & paste in a new window. Thanks for any advice!!

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Sorry all, the tree sank 2" not 2'

"I can't move it, at this stage it would kill it as the root mass nearly fell apart when it was planted"

This doesn't sound right. I sometimes purchase tree stock (both B & B and container) from an organisation who is privy to varieties not common in the trade. They sell only once a year and sometimes I think they jump the gun selling stock before it's ready to go, or don't really prepare some of their stock's root systems for the balling process. Most of them have survived, but it puts them off to a precarious start for a homeowner. What it amounts to is like digging them yourself out of the wild. There are standards set up for sales of nursery stock, and one of them has to do with holding stock for adequate rooting. Was it a reputable nursery, a box store? These aren't the most quickest trees in the world to establish and start sizing to begin with.

Truthfully when I placed the tree in the hole, I removed as much of the burlap as possible along with cutting away most of the wire cage that had kept everything together. I'm guessing that the tree had only been in that state for less than a year.

The root mass WAS together, but I didn't see any new roots coming out of the substrate they'd planted it in, and it appeared at one point that the substrate would crumble and fall away if I continued to position/reposition the tree.

How durable the root mass really was, I have no idea as it was my first B & B and I was really trying to play it safe.

The nursery that I purchased it from is one of the most reliable in the area, it's a huge operation and they grow about 80% of the stock they offer for sale. I've never had a doubt about the quality.

I looked at the leaves and stems last night in the dark, and they difintely perk up a bit at night, slowly, SLOWLY unfurling as each day goes by (while its friends in the neighborhood are full and leafy and stunning).

I guess at this point I'm concerned about the earth it is planted in, but if I can take a cue from the rest of the trees around us, patience will hopefully pay off. I'm guessing that most Beech trees look crummy in their first year.

I'd like to continue supplementing the tree with a transplant fertilizer but I don't want to add to the moisture content in the soil, so maybe waiting for some good stretch of dry weather is best? Unlikely in my neck of the woods :)

If indeed your tree is starving for oxygen, which it does sound like your tree may be experiencing the bathtub effect due to the organic matter added to the backfill, and you don't want to move the tree, one can water a newly planted tree with a three percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. This puts oxygen to the soil and water, it is not strong enough to do any real damage to the microflora that provide nutrients to the roots. You buy hydrogen peroxide at a much stronger level and in bulk, and you dilute it down. You're not supposed to fertilize a newly planted tree without a soil test first to determine just exactly what and if any alterations to the chemistry of the soil are called for. A slightly lean soil can actually encourage root growth, which initially is all you're trying to do for that tree, get settled in and established. In addition, one can make a hole near the tree that is deeper than the root ball in order to assist in drainage if that's the problem. One time I dug a chanell all the way around a newly planted and troubled tree. But nowadays, I try to avoid the scenario altogether if I want to amend the soil that I'm planting in, and plant in a mound of native soil I get from a different part of the yard. That's the only safe way I've noted of adding organic material to the soil that the tree is planted in, and not cause a serious drainage problem. The trunk collar, or root flare, in addition, needs to be exposed to air, not covered with soil or mulch. Extremely imporant. It's often about twice the diameter of the actual trunk, so you'll know when you find it. Roots need water, and they need air. That is why it is somewhat of an art, to not water too frequently, but enough to where the tree doesn't dehydrate. It sounds contradictory, water plus air, but it's a cycle that the soil goes through between near dryness to being moist again. An amended hole can disrupt this normal cycle by not draining fast enough. It's critical at this juncture not to overwater or underwater your tree. The more trees you kill, the better you get at planting trees, I've noted. I suspect your tree is struggling and might not make it, so one tries to make a learning experience out of it. Then again, it might overcome. Best Wishes.

in PBucket.. use the HTML code.. not the IMG code.. and on preview.. it should show right where you typed ...

i see lush fast growth.. that can not support itself .. which will stiffen and straighten ... and frankly think you are worrying too much ...

presuming its a red beech.. its got the right color...

i didnt see the pic on deeply planted ... too lazy ...

and beech are extremely sllloowww for me.. compared to other trees ...

when it loses its leaves in fall.. there is NO REASON.. you can not dig it up.. and plant it at the right height ...

I THINK.. your only problem.. beyond that.. is your 'expectation' .. rather than some failure on the part of this plant .... its alive.. what more do you need this soon after planting????

just extend the grass free area.. lower the soil.. and install some bricks.. to make a tree well ... to keep the soil off the trunk ... something like at the link ... AS A TEMPORARY FIX.. until you can lift it properly in DORMANCY ...

ken

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