The rope being tied around the tree won't have anything to do with the tree being able to increase in height. Growth occurs at the tips of branches and around their circumference. Trees do not grow from their base. In other words, if you drive a nail into the trunk of a tree, it will remain at that same height throughout the life of the tree.

Why is the tree staked? Is it newly planted? Can you give us a wider shot photo that shows more detail about how the tree is staked? Answers to these questions will allow me to provide further detailed information.

i really dont see.. why a tree that size needs any support ...

what is the soil...

how did you plant it...

and unless you say its hard clay.. i think you ought to release it ... trees are supposed to blow in the wind.. all you want is to insure.. in the worst of winds .. that it doesnt tip over completely ...

the setup you have right now.. is probably rated for a force 5 tornado .. and frankly.. if that blows thru .... you will have bigger problems than this tree ... lol ..

way overkill and way to much TLC .... with the potential to do more harm than good

why do you think it needs it????

that lowest branch will eventually be removed .... and.. trunks widen.. they do not extend up.. that branch will never grow higher .... but it will remain a hazard to your eyes and face ....

good luck

ken

ps: btw.. where are you???? tornado alley or any special wind problems???

It seems you want to know why I need a tree support. A tree support will prevent the tree truck and branches broken from wind blowing. I already had a 5 feet peach tree truck broken by the wind on the same spot although this prairie fire crabapple tree is thin and about 8 feet. I am afraid it will be broken by wind if no tree support. Plus, I see most of newly planted trees in the public areas have tree supports. The instructions of the tree support also state "To ensure strength nature growth and avoid root damage, newly planted trees need support for the first two years as young roots spread and establish themselves" - although my concern is the blowing wind may cause the tree broken. Do your experts think the tree support unnecessary for the newly planted tree or you have other better ideas to prevent the newly planted tree broken from the wind blowing? {{gwi:365516}}

{{gwi:365517}} is a diagram showing how to properly stake that tree. It needs proper staking - note the relationship of the guy attachment points to the distance up from the ground.

Dan

where are you .. city???? state????

why is it so windy

when was it planted

if it were me.. i would remove all the branches below the white line.. driveway??

and i would shorten all the branches but the primary leader by about half...

and i would remove all the stakes... unless the soil is clay ...

THAT TREE DOES NOT NEED TO BE STAKED ... unless you have clay soil.. IMHO ...

TREES NEED TO BLOW IN THE WIND ... period .... ONLY in the most extreme circumstances do they need to be staked ... give me a circ that is extreme in your locale.. and i will defer to the stake gods ... otherwise.. let it be free ..

ken

ken and I sometimes agree, sometimes disagree, and from his 4th line above starting with if it were, I completely disagree with every word. Sorry ken.

Dan

My area is Athens, Georgia, planting zone 8. Since I already had a peach tree broken by the wind on the same spot in April two years ago, the tree support may be necessary unless there are disadvantages of using the tree support. Thanks dan staley showed the diagram of staking the tree. Which method is best to stake my newly planted 8 feet thin tree, A, B or C? It seems my current tree support is for a little big tree, right? Diagram and tree. Please help me to select the right tree support.

All three are correct. The disadvantage of C is the space it takes up and the kids running into the guy wires. I do B, with the stakes in line with prevailing wind.

Dan

I'm a firm believer in shaping and training a young tree to a good 'scaffolding system' that will allow it to be the strongest it can possibly be throughout its entire life. The tree in question would definitely feel the sharp edge of my Felcos.

Staking needs to be done on an 'as needed' basis. There are many variables that determine this need. In my experience with many different kinds of sites, trees, and conditions, staking is NOT needed more often than it is. However, there are some very valid reasons for doing so, most of which don't have much to do with clay soil.

I prefer to use wide straps rather than wire-through-hose for better distribution of constriction to the tree.

I agree that a couple-three of those lower branches can come out. Don't go crazy until you know what the tree wants to do. And we are planting a Gymnocladus dioicus soon in the treelawn out front and that won't get staked, as it is small enough and lacking leaf area to make a big sail. And I agree with rhizo that staking is often not needed, if that were my tree I'd stake it. YMMV.

Dan

The way a very experienced and well-trained arborist explained it to me was that when you use stakes, you are essentially staking the rootball to prevent it from rocking back and forth and not allowing the roots to grow in the new hole. In fact, if you had a peach tree break in the wind, I doubt if a stake could have prevented it as they should be set to allow the trunk to flex in the wind in order to strengthen it.

Just my humble 2 cents ...