wrap it with foil. foil is a great callousing generator.

Dax

It's probably a borer. I would not do anything special. Just keep the tree watered during dry periods. You could use Bayer Tree and Shrub systemic insecticide if it gets any worse.

I am likely wrong, but I had an oak with Slime Flux a frothy wet sappy goo come out. The problem went away itself. You can see holes from borers, I am guessing. Any holes with sawdust coming out.

No holes. I looked at it this am and it wasn't "bleeding", so I guess it's just a sporadic thing.

Would it be of any value to put a dab or pruning paint on it?

put aluminum foil around "the branch you cut off as you say" and tie it in place with plant tape, string, etc-. Believe me, I know precisely what I'm talking about.

You can do the same for wounds on trees from deer, rabbits, or pruning mistakes where you cut off a branch thus resulting in tearing the bark off the trunk of a tree. It doesn't matter what caused the injury or clean cut, i.e., pruning, the foil prohibits sunlight and heat and allows a wound to callous properly.

don't use pruning sealer. it's not recommended anymore within all horticultural practices with the exception of using it for grafting trees.

Dax

I'm curious where you bought the tree? It's a great tree for north TX. My largest one is about 35'.

Luckily, it's stopped bleeding now. If it starts in again, I may have to try the tin foil trick.

Dricha- I bought the tree at a place called River Road Nursery in New Braunfels. I read about and wanted to try trees grown with the rootmaker system as I read overall positive things about it online. In addition to the Canby Oak, I got a couple of Monterrey Oaks and some Crape Myrtles there as well. The jury's still out if the rootmaker system is all that or not IMO.

Someone in my old neighborhood had a Canby Oak that was probably about 25' tall and a very attractive tree. That was my inspiration to try one, so to speak. I didn't realize they grew in N. TX. You learn something new every day!

Lone Star growers in San Antonio use to sell them back in the 80's and 90's. They convinced one of the cities to try them back in 1980 if I'm not mistaken. I know of three large ones in various places here.

Well, some time has passed since I last posted on this. There hadn't been any more bleeding happening until this morning. Boy, did the thing ever make up for lost time though. Bleeding from multiple locations this time. There was actually beads of sap dripping out of the top most spot.

I may have to bite the bullet and get an arborist out here to take a look to figure out what to do. If this is something that'll affect the long term heath of the tree, I'd rather pull the plug now than wait five years just to have it die and THEN start over again...

I thought I'd see if any of the rest of you have any thoughts on it first.

I didn't try the tin foil since the problem seemed to have stopped BTW. I'm concerned this may be a bigger problem than one wound now though...

Bump.

No takers?

There you are...I'm still feeling the same. Use the Bayer Tree and shrub if it does not go away. I think the tree will be fine. At least you've got your eye on it. Let us know.....

So I had an arborist treat it with a fungicide a few days back, suspecting that may be the issue.

I was googling "trees bleeding sap" last night and I think there's a very good chance it's actually Bacterial Wet Wood. In some ways, that's more disturbing since it looks like there's no cure.

Has anyone dealt with this in a young tree? I'm pretty much resigned to replacing it once it cools off a little bit this fall. I'm just concerned that if this crap is in the soil, any tree I plant will get it. It's also looking like the two Monterrey Oaks I planted in the backyard are getting it too. Needless to say, I'm very frustrated as this is the fourth house that I've planted Monterrey Oaks at and they've always done well for me up until now.

Needing some encouragement here...

Hi, Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your Canby oak? Was it able to heal itself? I just planted a 15 gallon (coincidentally) Canby oak as well. Before I bought it I had noticed a small brownish patch near the base of the trunk that within a couple days morphed into a blacker color that looks just like the spot at the base of your tree in the second photo you posted. I can also see a small amount of some light amber-colored sap flowing in that area at times that apparently turns dark on exposure to air. It's looking very suspiciously like the bacterial wetwood problem you mentioned. I hope not, though, and I hope your tree made it after all. Thanks.

Unfortunately, it just kept on bleeding profusely and I ended up removing it and starting over with a Mexican Sugar Maple. The Monterrey Oaks in the backyard ended up doing it too so I ended up removing them as well. I don't know what to make of it other than maybe I got some trees that came infected from the nursery perhaps. The Canby Oak was a new one, but I've successfully grown Monterrey Oaks in the past with no issues.

Hopefully you have better luck with yours!

FWIW, the MX Sugar Maple has done great for me.

What kind of growth are you getting on the mexican sugar maple? I had one that grew 3-5' per season for two years until a pretty benign winter killed it to the ground. It was pretty remarkable to watch it put out growth so rapidly for a sugar maple

Thanks Bressler, I'm really sorry to hear that. I'm guessing my tree has the same condition as yours because I'm in the Austin area as well, and I purchased my Canby oak from a well known nursery in Austin that had only within a week received the tree from a less well known nursery/grower in the Hill Country. Your tree in 2014 I'm guessing may have came from that same grower, given the proximity and limited availability of Canby oaks.

After researching further, and hearing how your Canby didn't seem to be able to recover, I’m wondering if the problem might actually be a bleeding canker rather than bacterial wetwood. And in particular a bleeding canker caused by a fungus-like pathogen called Phytophthora.

This is rather disturbing that a grower might possibly have been distributing similarly infected trees for several years. I sure hope not. I'm going to try to have my tree tested for Phytophthora since there may need to be some sort of soil decontamination done.

Thanks too for the tip about the Mexican sugar maple.

Sorry to here that it may be more serious than just Slime Flux. My red oak only got it once, then it was gone, since yours has come back, it is likely what you think it is, the bact. wet wood.

BTW, good tip about thr foil Dax.

Thanks Bressler, my Canby oak didn't come from New Braunfels, but I think it's possible the grower of my tree may supply trees there. So both of our trees could have come from the same grower in theory, I think.

The infection on mine is pretty clearly Phytophthora now. And that's what the tree pathologist at Texas A&M thinks is likely as well from photos I sent him.

I'm trying a potassium phosphite (not phosphate) treatment applied to the trunk, but it has a very low chance of working.

I'd like to have the soil fumigated with something like dazomet before planting another tree there but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get access to that.