New tree on site of old tree

10 years ago

A Silver Maple Tree was planted on my mother's front lawn around 1955/56. I put it off as long as possible (second to last one remaining on the street) but, old and decrepit, we recently had to remove it.

Of course, I feel a replacement is needed but it's a tiny suburban lot with, really, only two possible spots, one, the exact location the Maple was. My questions are, as you may've guessed, about planting a tree at the same place there (recently) was a tree.

Will the existing roots interfere with root development of the new tree?

Should I wait before planting?..how long?

Should I attempt to accelerate decomposition of the old material?

My larger question regards nutrients available to the new tree. It's the type of community where the people think the best place for leaves is in black plastic bags. There's not much nature happening there, no soil building etc.. I suspect soil depletion may even have played a part in the old tree's decline. I'm not certain but believe Silver Maples can reach 100 years or older so I don't think "old age" was the only issue.

"Tree Fertilizer Spikes" seem a little gimmicky plus it seems I'd need hundreds. Bringing in a backhoe and a truckload of fresh topsoil would be great but also isn't really feasible.

I vaguely recall seeing something on a gardening show years ago using an auger to make holes all over the lawn and then injecting fertilizers? This seems a possibility. (Details, anyone?)

Is soil depletion a valid concern or am I over-thinking this? Ideas, suggestion are welcomed.

Thanks

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Comments (4)

Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
10 years ago
I have planted near a rotting stump with good success. Big slowly rotting white ash stump.

Now out front another was over the house. EAB approaching and a seam in the trunk gave me two reasons to remove it. That one was professionally cut and I had em grind the stump.

Not scientific, but the soil there still does not feel right two years later. I planted a japanese maple five or ten feet away and it is growing. Gras seed over the former trunk is not.

If I were real interested I would get my shovel out and dig a huge hole where that trunk was ground out. Then I would refill with hopefully some clay first then the CHEAPEST top soil the store sold me. My goal woukd be to simulate the soil in the rest of the yard so I do not make a fish bowl of poor or great drainage.

Plus, this way I get to avoid the fertilizer guessing game.
Good luck.
lisanti07028
10 years ago
When the town finally cut down the dead maple in front of my house, they planted an ash in the same spot about six months later, and the ash is thriving (knock on wood).

They did grind the stump down well below the soil line, and I mixed soil and compost with the chips and sawdust and kept the area fairly moist in the hopes of helping the decomposition along, but I'd have to think that most of the root mass was still there when the ash was planted.
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
10 years ago
you are way over thinking this ...

if it was ground out.. and the grindings removed .. and you can actually dig deep enough to plant the tree.. you can not plant in the grindings ...

well ??? ..... then plan on planting the tree ..

especially a maple ...

have a soil test done.. and if it shows any problems .. fix those problems.. NO GUESSING.. and winging it ..

you are spot on on tree spikes.. just send me the money.. for what they are worth ...

if you mulch your grass.. or fert your grass.. the tree will get all it needs.. no need to double up by doing the lawn.. and then doing the tree ...

see link for planting guide ...

if you are looking for a high quality fall color tree.. i suggest you locate some good local tree farms.. and select the tree in fall color ...

i would also suggest that you go no bigger that 6 to 8 feet ...

and plant it in the appropriate season ... leafless... 6 to 8 weeks prior to bud out ... or in late fall.. depending where you are ...

if you select a tree in the wrong season.. pay a deposit.. and have them TAG the tree .. for future sale ... its done all the time ... it would help to know.. where you are ...

hopefully the planting guide will give a base knowledge ... and we can work with you from there ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link
calliope
10 years ago
The poster's home page indicates he/she is near Cleveland, Ohio. Lake effect zone.

FWIW, I have planted many trees in the same spot as one that was removed and never had issues. The caveat is tons of wood chips if they've been ground left in situ. That is the typical case where nitrogen deficiency occurs and adding it is recommended until they decompose.