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Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertilizer

Posted by KendraSchmidt none (My Page) on
Mon, Jul 16, 12 at 9:48

I'm not sure if I should post this here, but there are a few tree stumps that I would like to kill and remove. I would like to know how to remove the tree stump using high-nitrogen fertilizer?

I've seen on a few sites that this is possible, but I don't even know what high-nitrogen fertilizer options would be. I've read that cow manure would be one example, but I'm not sure?

I really want to use the fertilizer option, but can anyone here instruct me on how this works? Also, how long does this take, on average to finally kill and rot the tree so that it can be removed from the ground? Or does it simply turn to ash? (I know this depends on the size of the tree and probably the circumference too; it's a fairly average tree, nothing like an oak or anything.)

For the record, I don't want to use Roundup in or around my home, so that's not an option. Grinding the tree is not an option either, nor is hiring someone to do it. I also cannot purchase salpeter (Potassium Nitrate, I think) in my area, because it is now forbidden for whatever reasons. And I definitely have no intention of using oil/petrol or dynamite to remove the stump! Oh, and the product they sell in stores that you put on the stump (I think it's made with saltpeter or is simply saltpeter, not sure), is not at all available here.

And last, I don't want to compost on top of the stump or put grass on top of the stump. I've spent some time looking into options, and the fertilizer option seems to be the best.

I've tried looking through the archives, but haven't found sound results, any help here would be much appreciated. Thank you.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

high nitro fert would be granular 49-0-0 ...

and the fact that you would use that.. but are adverse to roundup... confuses me wildly ...

the nitro ... will rot wood.. it wont necessarily kill a tree ... because of the inability to apply the granules ... unless you can find it in liquid form ...

to rot.. wood needs to remain damp.. which is hard if it is sticking out of the ground ... and the nitro actually speeds decomposition process ....

how damp your soil remains.. over time .. will dictate how fast it rots.. in my sand ... which gets real dry ... stumps can sit there for years..but on 5 acres.. i really dont care ...

thats the 'gist' .. others will denigrate that answer ... so be it

i am guessing you are ill informed about roundup.. how to apply it.. use it.. and it effects .... and that frustrates me ...but its a waste of time to educate you .... since you have ruled it out summarily ...

ken


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


 o
RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


 o
RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


 o
RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


 o
RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


 o
RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Any high N fertilizer will work, just go buy some 12-12-12 or some cheap lawn fertilizer (not weed and feed). Composted manure is pretty low in N, even raw manure is relatively low for this application -- poultry manure would be better if you want to use an organic fertilizer. Even a bottle of household liquid ammonia would work.

Take a drill with a long bit at least half and inch in diameter, and drill as many vertical holes into the stump as you can. Pour the fertilizer into the holes maybe an inch deep, and them douse the whole thing with water to keep it as wet as possible on an ongoing basis. This will speed the decay quite a bit, but remember, if it would take a decade in nature to break the stump down, it's still going to take a least a few years under the best of circumstances with assistance to do it. It doesn't "turn to ash", it is rotted by fungi and bacteria, the fertilizer just speeds the process -- rotten wood gets soft, spongy, and ultimately crumbles into powder that feeds the soil.

You can periodically reapply smaller amounts of fertilizer to the stump to feed the decay organisms, as you would any plant, but don't overdo it and kill them off.

I've had various trees cut before on my property, and actually had them leave stumps about 10' tall, and then planted ornamental vines such as trumpet vine or silver lace vine on them. The vines cover the stumps, the stumps provide nesting places for woodpeckers and other cavity dwellers as they decay, and food for these birds as well. Eventually, they rot off and fall over in storms and I clean them up the rest of the way -- and end up having to come up with a new trellis for the vines! But it's all good.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

As much as I think Monsanto should have never been allowed to spin of Solutia (Solution to all my law suits?) Round-Up has nothing to do with stump decay. Tell who ever got that into your conversation Round-Up kills plants then further question their horticultural knowledge.

Drill holes like said earlier. That will increase the exposed surface area and speed rot. I have concerns about unbalancing the nitrogen mixture for whatever is around it now and later. I do not know your nitrogen absorption rates or how quickly it will break down

Here is a link that might be useful: Monsanto IS really not to be trusted - not the most bullit proof source but easy reading.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Ken, I'm getting very frustrated with the constant references to "educating" people on Roundup or any other Monsanto products. I did not state my reasons for not wanting to use their products. I simply wrote that I did not want to use it, and I stand by that assertion. I stated this in advance so that the Roundup fans and campaigners who work on Gardenweb would not attempt to suggest it to me. However, yet again, this product and its parent company Monsanto have managed to yet again dominate an exchange and to yield no answers - as usual.

No one here needs to educate me on Monsanto and their products. They are a completely unethical and criminal company that is allowed to run rampant because of its corporate and financial might. You presume to understand my many reasons for not wanting to use any of their products. I stand by my assertion. I'm educated (formally) and I am plugged in politically. I refuse to use this company's products and I stand by that assertion. Thanks.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

denninmi, Tornado, thank you very much for this advice (and for the link). Dennimi, do you know if the fertilizers will somehow harm the soil and prevent me from planting food crops in the same space? (Or any ornamental flowers/plants?) Also, do you have an rough estimate of how much time it would take to rot the tree? I know it varies by size, etc, but can you offer a rough estimate, please? Thanks so much.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

You are most welcome for all six of my duplicate posts. I don't have a clue why it is doing this to me -- it keeps doing it over and over again, anywhere from 2 to 6 duplicates. I am NOT hitting the submit reply button more than once. I have concluded it is either a glitch or an incompatibility between Google Chrome and the forum's software, because it didn't happen yesterday when I tried Firefox. Unfortunately, I hate both Firefox and Internet Explorer, they are both so slow compared to Google Chrome.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

I had the same gameplan back in 2006 when a July storm took down three Black Locusts. I went cheap and had the tree service leave the stumps, planning on trying the high N method. Urea was available at the nearby Hummerts so I thought I had it covered. Fortunately I tried drilling the holes before I bought the fertilizer. I tried two different drill bits and never got more than a 1/2" deep hole. I know Black Locust is known for being a very durable wood so maybe it was the stumps or maybe it was me. Six years later and the stumps are still there, one covered with ivy and euonymous and the other two partially covered with zoysia. So I'd suggest trying to drill the holes first before you spend money on the fertilzer.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Locust would be one of the worst, along perhaps with oak.

When my tulip tree was hit by lightning and died, I was shocked at what a soft and lightweight wood it was -- the chain saw went through it like warm butter.

The softer a wood is, the faster it generally rots from what I've seen.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

We couldn't drill holes into the big pine tree stump that was cut down level to the ground, so when we had a couple cubic yards of garden dirt spread over the beds, I made a hill over the stump, created a two level terrace with edging bricks in a semi circle and planted bedding plants (and now there's a lattice with climbing roses planted at the back of it). Eventually the stump will rot out underneath and I may need more dirt on top of it but you'd never know a tree lived and died in that spot. lol


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Does no ones else take a dull chainsaw to their stumps when walking back to their garage to refuel and sharpen or replace?


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

No, but I've used a sharpened hand axe.

Some have recommended the use of a mattock for many such applications. The mattock in uniniated hands smacks of severing an artery.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

I think you are missing the easy way. Just mix the fertilizer with a little fuel oil and place it in some large holes in the stump. It should come out quickly, if properly applied. ;-)


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Thanks Knuttle, as I mentioned earlier, we're not planning to use any oil/petrol/fuel to remove the stump. Duluth, I saw an article that suggested a mattock, but my hands are indeed among the uninitiated! :o)

Sounds like a really bad accident waiting to happen.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Continuing with the fire idea, place some rocks around the stump and build a bonfire pit with the stump in the center.

If you are in a drought striken area wait till fire bans are lifted.

Light it the hard way wihout accelerant if you must lol. Safer anyways.

Thanks for having fun with us!


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Another interesting alternative, IF you have the right species of trees AND you live somewhere the weather would be conducive (say, NOT in the middle of the Nevada desert), might be to use the stumps to grow edible mushrooms such as oysters or maitake. The fungi will break down the stumps as nature intended, and it will not be super fast process, maybe just a bit faster than left on its own, but you would get a crop of edible mushrooms for several years AND the pleasure of learning about mushroom cultivation. Many hardwoods and some conifers can support edible fungi. Look at web sites of companies like Fungi Perfecti for more information.


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RE: Question about removing tree stump using high-nitrogen fertil

Another interesting alternative, IF you have the right species of trees AND you live somewhere the weather would be conducive (say, NOT in the middle of the Nevada desert), might be to use the stumps to grow edible mushrooms such as oysters or maitake. The fungi will break down the stumps as nature intended, and it will not be super fast process, maybe just a bit faster than left on its own, but you would get a crop of edible mushrooms for several years AND the pleasure of learning about mushroom cultivation. Many hardwoods and some conifers can support edible fungi. Look at web sites of companies like Fungi Perfecti for more information.


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