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| I had a pear tree removed last year. Supposedly, the stop was removed. I have growth coming up all over the area where the roots were. I have been using round up, as someone suggested, with the idea that it would kill the roots. I still have new growth coming up in different areas and am consistantly using round up. Am I doing the right thing? Is it just going to take time? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Karen |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| How, specifically, are you using the RoundUp, and what concentration are you using? |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sun, Jul 15, 12 at 17:38
| get the very expensive drip container.. like the one at the link.. empty it.. and pour in full strength roundup in it.. that would be 41% ... take pruning shears in one hand.. snip off a sucker.. and put one drip on the cut.. and keep doing it for the year or two that it takes for it to suck in the killer.. and kill every single root there ... do not let any sprout linger for long.. just go hunting when you notice 6 inchers around.. if they get much bigger.. you will start feeding the root system.. and it will only take longer ... though spraying will work .. it drifts.. and its a pain in the butt ... just stick with it.. it will get the idea.. and die.. and then you will have a few years of a free show of mushrooms popping up all over.. just enjoy that show.. as the wood rots.. the mushrooms will go away ... and in the meantime.. you will learn where are all those roots were near the surface .... ken |
Here is a link that might be useful: link
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- Posted by karen_tennessee 7a (My Page) on Sun, Jul 15, 12 at 18:37
| Of course I have used the easy way out. I have been using the spray bottle solution. I really don't care if it kills some of the grass. Sounds like I am using a less concentrated solution. Do I really have to hand sheer the growth for the solution to get to the roots? I really did not understand what solution is best? |
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| The premixed/ready-to-use stuff is pretty much useless against the rootstock. It would be just about as effective if you just kept cutting off new sprouts with a mower or something. If you'll use the concentrated stuff (around 40% to 50% concentrations) and apply a few drops to the freshly cut phloem of the suckers, you'll have much greater success. If you had had this done when the tree was cut (yes, I understand you may not have known what was being done then), you probably wouldn't have had any further problems. Treating the suckers, properly, now will be the next best thing and probably won't take that much effort (may take a few rounds) until you see results. |
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| Is the method the same for a cottonwood? |
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| If the rootstock suckers are coming up in turf lawn, why not just use a broadleaved herbicide for lawns like Bayer Advanced or Ortho Weed-B-Gon? Very effective on this sort of thing, I found out the hard way years back and killed the aspen in my front yard through the root suckers. |
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| Yes, gmp3, this method should work with almost any species in this type of situation. Concentrated glyphosate (RoundUp, Gly-4, etc, etc) or concentrated triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon, Bayer Advanced Brush Killer, etc, etc) will both work. The effectiveness of both should be somewhat similar, with slight seasonal (spring v. summer v. early fall) variations between the two. |
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- Posted by alabamatreehugger 8a/8b south Alabama (My Page) on Thu, Jul 19, 12 at 11:06
| Triclopyr (Bayer Brush Killer) is much more effective on anything woody, in my opinion ;) |
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| Treehugger, The data does not show that. If fact, it's well documented that the relative effectiveness of these two common herbicide groups depends on multiple factors like what time of year the application is performed, what species are used for comparison, etc. On average, in the studies that I've seen, the effectiveness is close either way. Glyphosate wins out clearly (by a relative small amount) in some cases, and the Triclopyrs win out clearly (by a relatively small amount) in other cases. There are other advantages of both chemicals (Glyphosate works on more types of stuff; Triclopyr is more selective and can be used over the top of grasses, sedges, and some conifers - with certain stipulations; etc, etc). Basically, for applications related to the topic of this thread, I'd use whichever I had on hand. |
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| P.S. I forgot to add, the actual chemical used (ester v. amine, for instance), the formulation (other associated herbicides included in the mix, surfactant, etc), and the concentration of the chemical can make big differences, also. For instance, from the data I've seen, glyphosate without some other types of herbicides (ie the RoundUp that takes a while to see results) works much better, especially in treating stumps, than some of the common homeowner glyphosate mixtures (ie 12-hour RoundUp). |
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