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brian2828

splintered peach tree limb

Brian2828
10 years ago

I recently moved into a house that has a peach tree on the property. I've never owned trees before and other than watching the peaches grow, I did nothing to care for it. I assume the weight of the fruit caused one of the main limbs to splinter and I'm looking for any advice on how best to save the tree. It is one of the largest limbs that splintered. I assume I need to remove the limb but I'm not finding clear answers elsewhere. Hopefully the picture I uploaded is useful. The limb is 3 to 5 inches or so in diameter. Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Comments (7)

  • nurseryman33
    10 years ago

    Based on the size of the leaves, the branch doesn't look that big to me. But regardless, first cut the weight of the branch off by sawing the branch just to the left of where it exits the photo. Then make a clean cut just above that unbroken branch that is below the broken one (about where that big leaf is pointing). Cut at an angle that parallels the unbroken branch so that you do not leave a stub. A picture of the whole tree would be useful.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    10 years ago

    the break has to go ... i dont know how much clearer you need ...

    what he said...you get rid of the weight.. so you can make a more surgical cut ... and you cut just above a new branch.. that will take over leadership ... or what we call.. dominance ...

    it can NOT to be mended ... and i am glad you understand that ...

    this can wait until winter.. when the tree is nudey .... and you could snap a pic.. and we can point to the cutting spot ....

    ken

  • joeinmo 6b-7a
    10 years ago

    Peach trees need lots of care to have nice fruit, they attract lots of pests and fungus.

    I would cut off the branch, it could be a place where pests move into and eventually weaken your tree, after first frost cut off the branch.

    In addition you need to get fruit tree spray and apply to your tree 4 times a year. Once in spring before it flowers, then right after leaf out, once in mid summer and once in fall before first frost.

  • Brian2828
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    I really appreciate all of the advice. I've uploaded a picture that looks fine on my phone, but I'm not sure how good the .jpg is. Even without knowing anything about trees, it's obvious this one needs a lot of work. It seems that the fruit on one side of the tree pulled all of the limbs down. Only one has snapped but I assume I need to pull off the others that are causing the limbs to droop like this. I'm amazed by how much fruit is on it and how fast they went from tiny fruits to the size they are now. The peaches are fairly small, but some of them look edible. I ate one after giving it a few days to ripen and it was good.

    It is not clear from the different responses whether I should be cutting the limb now, or should be waiting until later fall/winter.

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    10 years ago

    Remove the damaged limb NOW. Waiting until winter only provides an opportunity for pests or diseases to invade the exposed tissue.

    I would also disagree with the need to spray peaches routinely. Depending on variety, it is very possible to grow peaches (and other fruit trees) without the need for constant spraying. Fruit trees that are well-suited to the area (location is important) and that are disease resistant should seldom - if ever - require spraying.

    Next year you may want to thin out the fruit once it starts to develop - thinning helps to reduce the weight and allows the fruit to grow and develop to an appropriate size without overly taxing the resources of the tree.

    Here is a link that might be useful: thinning fruit

  • joeinmo 6b-7a
    10 years ago

    Have to disagree with gardengal, Cut the tree now and it's wide open for the fungus or insects to invade a weakened tree. Wrong wrong wrong, that's old time thinking when they painted trees etc. Cut it after a good frost, the longer into the winter, the better. In addition you want to trim the tree, you want air to circulate within the central area of the tree to ward off fungus. You also don't want to take too much off the tree during winter trimming otherwise you will get lots of leaves etc with little fruit in the next growing season, however in your case it looks like you need more structure within yor tree to support the heavy fruit.

    Below is from the North Carolina Coooperative Extension:

    Dormant pruning vs Summer Pruning

    Trees respond very differently to dormant and summer pruning. Dormant pruning is an invigorating process. During the fall, energy is stored primarily in the trunk and root system to support the top portion of the tree. If a large portion of the tree is removed during the winter, while the tree is dormant, the tree's energy reserve is unchanged. In the spring, the tree responds by producing many new vigorous, upright shoots, called water sprouts, which shade the tree and inhibit proper development. Heavy dormant pruning also promotes excessive vegetative vigor, which uses much of the tree's energy, leaving little for fruit growth and development.

    Historically, much of the vigorous, upright vegetative growth has been removed during the dormant season; heavy dormant pruning results in a yearly cycle with excessive vegetative growth and little or no fruit production.

    Timing of dormant pruning is critical. Pruning should begin as late in the winter as possible to avoid winter injury. Apple and pecan trees should be pruned first, followed by cherry, peach, and plum trees. A good rule to follow is to prune the latest blooming trees first and the earliest blooming last. Another factor to consider is tree age. Within a particular fruit type, the oldest trees should be pruned first. Younger trees are more prone to winter injury from early pruning.

    Summer pruning eliminates an energy or foodproducing portion of the tree and results in reduced tree growth. Pruning can begin as soon as the buds start to grow, but it is generally started after vegetative growth is several inches long. For most purposes, summer pruning should be limited to removing the upright and vigorous current season's growth; only thinning cuts should be used. To minimize the potential for winter injury, summer pruning should not be done after the end of July.

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    10 years ago

    Hold on!! All of the above verbiage applies only to "normal" or typical pruning practices, of which this is not. The situation described is a case of damage control, not pruning - two very different sets of circumstances that require different responses.

    Torn, broken or damaged limbs should be removed as cleanly and as carefully as possible as soon after the damage occurs as is noticed or is possible. Exposed tissue that is damaged like this is unable to 'heal' or scar over on its own and is open to disease and insect involvement regardless of what time of year it occurs. This is not "old time thinking" at all - it is an accepted arboricultural practice!!

    Where are you getting these bizarre concepts?? They are not correct.