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| The tree I planted was staked as usual. I need to know if the picture below/above is proper staking, it is exactly how my dogwood tree is staked. Now another question is do the nurseries come back out after a growing season and remove the staking material or would i have to? I wasnt there when they planted it my family was while I was at school. I don't want the tree to grow narrow and tall but short and wide the way dogwoods are mean to be grown. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by gardenapprentice none (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 17:42
| here is how the tree is staked, is it looking stained or is it ok? |
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- Posted by gardenapprentice (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 17:43
| here is the tree |
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- Posted by gardengal48 PNW zone 8 (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 18:57
| I can't see any good reason for the tree to be staked at all. Typically staking is only required in areas with the potential for high winds or if the rootball is inadequate to provide stablilty (i.e., some bareroot plantings or small containerized trees with well-developed canopies). The method of staking looks reasonably appropriate......just not at all sure it is in any way necessary. If newly planted, it probably won't hurt to leave it in place for now but remove at the end of winter. I consider staking to be a last resort situation. In most situations, trees actually tend to establish better and more rapidly without. |
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- Posted by toronado3800 Z6 St. Louis (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 19:48
| Am I correct in assuming it was just transplanted? Something with that much leaf surface can catch a little wind and the rootball is just a pivot point. Keep it watered properly. Long slow waterings, stick your finger in the rootball to see if it is damp still to see if you need to water again. Dogwoods can be a bit fussy with water. |
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| Got to agree with gardengal48, don't stake it unless you are in a super windy location. The trunk will grow more strongly without support. If you ARE in a windy spot use a low diagonal stake attached about 6" to 1' above the ground to prevent the rootball from moving, but letting the trunk flex in the breeze. hortster |
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- Posted by gardenapprentice none (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 21:55
| It is moderatley attached to it. When we get the severe weather it gets gusts up to 50 or 60. The dogwood is doing good, havent watered for 2 weeks because we got 3 inches last week then about a half inch a few days ago. We are expecting more rain by the end of the week. But this summeer since its been in the 90s and 100s I watered shortly every evening, or long periods each week. It developed flower and leaf buds, and is going under moderate/minor transplant shock. Planted in April it is about 8-9 feet overall. But we lost about 10 leaves in some high wind last wee and the branches unfortuanatley did not have any buds set on them so i'll leave em, do the people who planted come back and take away the stakes? |
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- Posted by gardenapprentice none (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 21:56
| It was transplanted in April 25th or 26th |
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sun, Aug 12, 12 at 22:09
| Not to be picky, but your tree is guyed, not staked. I'm in the camp that says don't stake (Or guy) unless you have to. The flaw in that statement though is that you don't necessarily know if "you have to" until a wind event or something occurs. Since it's already done, and done reasonably well, why not just leave it be for a year or less. It's simply not going to make that much difference, provided you do make sure to remove the guying at the end of that interval. +oM |
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- Posted by duluthinbloomz4 zone 4a (My Page) on Mon, Aug 13, 12 at 0:25
| To answer your question - no, the nursery people are not going to come back and remove the guy wires. That'll be up to you. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Aug 13, 12 at 8:05
| first.. what is the native soil type [looks like a sand dune behind it] ... if sand.. it probably doenst need to be staked after this year.. if heavy clay.. another year might be useful ... you remove the stakes .... unless you want to pay someone to come do it ... second .. you said: I watered shortly every evening that is just about useless ... dig a hole next to the root mass planted [hand trowel to 6 inches] .. and find out.. if ANY water is getting down into the root mass which was planted .. in general ... on transplant ...a tree needs its entire root mass to be kept MOIST [rather than sodden] ... for upwards of two year ... to allow ALL of its roots to start working/growing again ... a little spritz every night.. USUALLY does not ensure such ... [moist vs sodden is a drainage issue.. and takes use back to native soil] it would not be uncommon ... to give it a very deep thorough watering.. and not have to water it again for upwards of a month ... since you have mulch.. and dependent on ambient rain ... [though you do check it every few days by inserting your finger into the soil] there is no reason it needs water every day ... once you insure moisture at depth ... and never forget.. we dont care if the mulch dries.. its what is going on in the soil below.. insert finger AND FIND OUT ... it looks great for a new transplant ... good luck ken |
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