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| Everyone knows plant named cultivar red maples, sugar maples and sweetgums for fall color. Nyssa sylvatica (black gum for most of us) is a rather classy choice. White ash was a favorite of mine until EAB, now I have left a couple growing in the tree lines but can't recommend planting them in residential yards.
Anyone have a favorite most folks do not consider? I'm thinking about nominating white oak. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Wild Cherry Prunus avium Resin |
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| I love the fall color of Black gum! I'd have to add Amelanchier canadensis (Serviceberry)to your choice, but also love the colors that Stewartia pseudocamellia, Ginkgo, and Dogwood provide. Don't get me started...there are so many luscious colors out there! Can't wait for our season to start. |
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| Cornus florida (Dogwood) can be quite showy. Around here the leaves can turn cherry red. |
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| Crataegus crusgalli Acer pseudosieboldianum Quercus coccinea Viburnum prunifolium (more of small tree) Most variegated Cornus kousa turn a vibrant pink. |
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- Posted by bfrederick 6A (My Page) on Thu, Sep 15, 11 at 11:36
| Another post from the other day got me thinking about sourwoods. They have awesome red/orange fall color at least where I live and also the whitish remnants of the flower drupes at the same time. |
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| White oak as mentioned above. |
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| Some of the crab apples Malus sp.can have nice fall color. American Smoke Tree Continus obovatus, and some of the cultivars of European Smoke Tree. Yellowwood Cladrastis kentukea Chalk Maple Acer luecoderme Triflorum Maple Acer triflorum PaperBark Maple Acer griseum Various Hickory Carya sp. Ilex decidua, leaves drop reveling very bright persistent berries. Lets not forget everyone's favorite, Callery Pears. It's one of the things that makes them popular, though not enough to go planting them IMHO. Arktrees |
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| Dawn Redwood. Most beautiful copper color, and one of the very last to drop, often mid-November here in SE Michigan. |
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| Ark, Some of those Malus cultivars include 'Stain Cloud', 'Donald Wyman' and 'Prairie Fire'. Any others you can share that you know of? |
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| Definitely have to add Crape Myrtles to the list. To have brilliant reds, oranges, and yellows all on the same tree is quite a display! |
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| whaas, Scarlet Brandy Wine is supposed to have great fall color and be resistant to the four usual diseases. Harvest Gold is supposed to have good yellow color. Royal Raindrops is supposedly orange-red. Beyond that, I'm not certain though I will be revisiting this between now and next spring since I will be replacing some crabs. Arktrees |
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| I saw a huge American Beech Fagus grandifolia on the old home place, a few years ago. The golden yellows were stunning. It now belongs to one of my sisters, maybe she will let me visit it this fall to take some pictures. The black gum in my front yard is very nice also, it has horizontal branches, pyramid shape, & it is a volunteer. (free) |
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| Quercus Palastris (pin oak) has a nice dark burgundy color. My Nuttalls oaks and Shumard oak have decent color. The tiny seedlings of Chinkapin and Willow oak should have yellow color,I'm not sure how vibrant though. Ditto for white oak, and red oak is decent too. |
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- Posted by lou_midlothian_tx z8 DFW Tx (My Page) on Mon, Sep 19, 11 at 21:03
| Shantung maples where I live... Sometimes red oak trees produce nice red fall color but not always. Bradford (and others) sometimes give us nice fall color. Chinese Pistache... Bald cypress seem to produce most consistent fall color. I've seen a few that was pure red color. Wow! I collected seeds off this nice looking Montezuma cypress a couple years ago and grew one that produced red "winter" red color. Now that it is a lot bigger, I'm curious to see if it repeats that color in its 2nd year. It's pretty cool to have some color during the winter. More people in the southern states should grow Montezuma cypress. Keep it in mind that it's in Dallas-Ft Worth area. Not exactly known for its fall color although we have our own Lost Maple Forest in south central Texas where sugar maples are thriving and produces nice fall color... Strangely, Sweetgum trees that experts claims cannot grow in our aklaine soil often produce great fall color. I think it depends on rainfall but who knows? |
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| Amur maples, I'll second cornus florida......mine turns a deep, lovely cherry red, cut leaf sumac, my liriodendron have a bright yellow hue I find pleasing, beech |
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| sassafras seems like a good one for fall color, though would be too weedy for small landscapes. |
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A tree that is mostly known for utilitarian purposes, the hybrid willow can have a nice yellow when most of the other trees have already lost their leaves. ![]() |
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- Posted by restorephoto 5 central Indiana (My Page) on Sat, Sep 24, 11 at 15:49
| I'll second two of arktrees recommendations: Cladrastis kentuckiana (Yellowwood) Acer triflorum (Three-flower Maple) My Yellowwood started as a seedling that I planting around 1980. It's a fantastic tree with great yellow fall color. My Three-flower Maple has been in the ground 13 years. Last year was the first year that it had really nice color. I'm hoping it repeats that show every year. |
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| restore, what would you estimate the width of your Yellowoood to be? Can you describe the soil as well? I have a seedling as well and trying to get an idea of its 30 year width in zone 5, Midwest. My Tilia americana seem to have a nice golden yeloow with a hint of orange right now. Not sure if that is typical or not. |
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- Posted by restorephoto 5 central Indiana (My Page) on Sun, Sep 25, 11 at 11:45
| My Yellowwood is in an unusual situation. So I'll describe it before giving dimensions. The Yellowwood was planted near the west edge of our property between two Hackberry trees that are 50-60' tall. Neither Hackberry has a limb lower than about 25'. The Yellowwood is 30-40' from the southernmost Hackberry and perhaps 15' from the northernmost Hackberry. Just beyond the property line is a gravel driveway. On the other side of that driveway (20' from the Yellowwood?) is a White Pine that's probably 60' tall. It's almost due west of the Yellowwood. There are other smaller trees in that vicinity, but the White Pine is predominant. The Hackberries (not a dense canopy at all) don't seem to affect the growth of the Yellowwood. However, growth on the west side is limited significantly by the White Pine. So, I'll give the Yellowwood's diameter on a N-S axis. It's about 30-35'. Soil conditions are unique as well, and may play a significant role in the success I've had with this tree. The area is in the floodway for a small stream that runs across our front yard. Flooding can be severe, but is usually short-lived. Also, the area where the tree is planted was once apparently part of the septic system drain field. (We're now connected to city sewer.) A 10-foot wide strip of low-lying area along the west edge of the property was filled with coarse crushed limestone, probably in the 1950s. This may have had something to do with the septic system. The crushed stone is 12-15" deep. (People who complain about having to plant in clay ought to try planting in this area!) I removed several L. Maackii and dug a small hole (1-2'?) through the crushed stone in order to plant the Yellowwood. The bottom line is that the tree sits partially in a bed consisting of crushed limestone with considerable accumulated organic matter and silt from flood events. At least that's the case for the the roots that travel north or south from the tree. To the east, the roots encounter the clay that came from the digging of our basement in '39. To the west is the aforementioned driveway (gravel and crushed stone that's slightly elevated and probably 12-18" deep). Generally, our soil is fantastic here. It's very well drained, unlike the clay soils seen in most of central Indiana. Also, I would note that the Yellowwood State Forest in southern Indiana isn't all that far from the world-famous limestone quarries. Much of southern Indiana is underlain with shallow limestone. I'm guessing that the Yellowwoods in the state forest thrive at least in part because of that limestone, but I've never done any checking. So it's only a guess. I don't know how helpful this information will be, but certainly hope you have as much luck with your Yellowwood seedling as I've had with mine. I'm actually thinking about planting a second Yellowwood about 50' further south (still in the limestone bed), and between a pair of the big Hackberries, but I hate the thought of digging in that crushed stone! |
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| Here in the NH/VT area it's always all about the sugar maples. The oaks just never seem to get any respect, and yet they have excellent color much later in the season so I very much welcome them to extend the fall season. I second many of the trees already listed and would also add japanese maples and katsura. One of my trees that I am happily surprised about the fall color is european beech. At the beginning of the turn it starts out a fairly nice yellow but over the days the color deepens and deepens into a gorgeous rich golden/orange color. I got lucky in that it's planted where it gets backlit from the sun. While it's not a tree, I have a climbing hydrangea growing up an oak that turns a beautiful yellow. |
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| I'll add another pair to the list. Shagbark hickory has nice fall color, at least mine does, turning a bright clear yellow. I don't know if all members of the species do this. I do know that some other hickory species have no fall color to speak of. I also have a large shellbark hickory, and it just turns brown after the hard freeze, and the leaves actually persist a while, often not falling until December snow brings them down. Another tree that can have good fall color is American persimmon. My male trees, in particular, are nice, turning mostly yellow but with some red and orange highlights. This too I think varies, though, with either cultivar, gender, or site, because my grafted 'Meader' female tree just turns ugly yellow green and drops, but always puts on a nice show with the vibrant orange fruit after the leaves drop. My female seed-grown tree, by contrast, is in between these two extremes, with tolerable but not great fall color most years. |
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| Not a tree I know but I like the red color and white contrasting berries of poison ivy. Very attractive growing up the trees that are dying from all our introduced pests. But then I am completely immune to it. Also good at keeping out the neighbors if grown as a fence. |
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| Restore, thanks for the detail. You must have a vigorous tree with it putting on 12" of width per year. They perform quite well in alkaline soils (limestone) and it sounds like your tree gets good moisture. They put on about 6" a year...if you can find them in this area. They are very expensive b&b for that very reason. I have three going right now and will select the most vigorous with a the best branching structure to plant out in a year or two. |
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- Posted by restorephoto 5 central Indiana (My Page) on Mon, Sep 26, 11 at 20:02
| Yes, whaas, I'm very pleased with my Yellowwood. It's too bad they won't bloom EVERY year! |
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| You know you have to share a pic with fall color now! |
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- Posted by restorephoto 5 central Indiana (My Page) on Tue, Sep 27, 11 at 21:19
| Will try to remember, but I'm wondering how to get a clear shot of it. Separately, I don't remember if I ever uploaded photos of my 175-200 year old Q. Michauxii in the back yard. I'll have to double-check. I've now got an off-spring that's probably 18' tall now, too! Neither has fall color that's of much interest, but I keep watching for 2- to 3-year-old seedlings that might be worth saving for the red fall color. This tree is well north of what is generally considered to be it's native range, but it's obviously been happy here for a very long time. We have numerous oaks of this age/size in the area, but this one has the best structure of them all. If only it had more interesting fall color...... |
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| What ever you have would be appreciated! This forum needs more pics. Here are a couple fall shots this year so far...yes both are known for fall color and one is a shrub but who cares! |
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| Black Gum Crape Myrtle Sweet Gum Tulip Poplar when there isn't a drought. |
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| Here in the San Francisco Bay Area there are actually quite a few good fall color candidates. Japanese Maples, Chinese Pistache, Ginkos, Crape Myrtles, Liquidambars, Sapium sebiferum, Flowering Japanese Cherries, , Japanese Persimmons, are some of the most reliable as none of them need any frost to color up here, and several of them can start coloring up with drought stress as early as August, and things like Liquidambars can keep color into February some years. One of the oddities about our local climate is we can have fall.color at the same time we have vivid blooms on Corymbia ficifolia and Metrosideros robusta or Cunnonia capensis and Pittosporum undulating perfuming entire blocks in winter. Plus some of the deciduous Asian Magnolias are already blooming in December here. Throw in blooming subtropicals such as Brugmansias which can get 25 feet tall and continue blooming all winter, and it may actually be the fall color deciduous trees that seem out of place against the predominant evergreens of our Coast Live Oaks, Madrones, Bay Laurels, Douglas Firs and Coast Redwoods. The few native deciduous trees are mostly just a few willows, California Buckeyes, Bigleaf Maples here by the bay. October and November are actually the beginning of the growing season here with the early fall rains. Having grown up with this uniquely different climate, cold winters and dormant trees aren't what we're used to here. |
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| Shumard Oak. |
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| One I've not seen mentioned yet - Pseudocydonia sinensis - Chinese quince - mine have vibrant red-orange fall color. Mine are still too young to have yet developed the pleasing exfoliating bark pattern similar to some crape myrtles, sycamore, and eucalyptus... |
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| This post is about trees that don't get respect -- so the obvious & common brightly colored ones don't count. My nominees, Bitternut hickory, Norway maple & Shumard oak. |
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| Several responses for Shumard Oak. Maybe I should check them out. I've seen a few here and there offered locally, but always thought they were a Scarlet Oak or Pin Oak at first glance. Looks like their native range does touch Western Ohio, a hundred miles or so west of here. |
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- Posted by jimbobfeeny 5a IN (My Page) on Fri, Nov 30, 12 at 22:23
| Not a tree, but I love the fall color of Viburnum lantanoides. In cooler climates, they start to change by the end of august, turning pink, then burgundy, then yellow, then brown by the end of summer. Restore, I live in Central Indiana also - Yes, the usual clay soil is a bit of a pain, but the alluvial floodplain soils are a pleasure to garden in. A fairly large creek goes across our property, and it floods a bit every year, depositing more rich, black silt. Most trees grow excellently. The forest is mostly elms, ash, and hackberry - Some sugar maple, tons of basswood. The soil never dries out completely - I'm afraid I've kind of neglected the claybound front yard and put all my effort into the floodplain! |
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| This post is for lucky - here's my pseudocydonia sinensis bark - tree is about 15yrs old. It's worth waiting for! |
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| Liquidamber styracifolia Worplesden A rather bizarre kaleidoscope of colors... not a great picture, but you get the idea. |
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 12:51
| All larches, though they may be too well heralded for this characteristic to belong in this thread. +oM |
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| **** Posted by pineresin 8/9 UK (My Page) on Thu, Sep 15, 11 at 6:01 Wild Cherry Prunus avium Prunus avium has escaped in the wild in a number of areas around here. Not common, but I'm continually surprised where it shows up at times (the bark makes it easy to ID), even competing in the canopy of the oak-hickory-tuliptree forest at lower elevations. There are also some in the PA hemlock forests near here. |
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