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| I'm not doing ANY planting with the exception of one conifer mail order due to the horrid stock rampid through the nurseries and garden centers right now.
I have several transplants and would like to take care of them this fall but I think these two species aren't too happy with fall transplanting. Is that right? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by gardener365 IL 5/6 (My Page) on Mon, Sep 3, 12 at 10:02
| Not a problem, whaas. The key is to wait until the ground is extremely saturated with water when doing Fall transplants or plantings. Yesterday I planted nine trees. In 10 days, it's going to be jacket weather in the morning. Dax |
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| Man, I learned the hard way trying to transplant when the ground wasn't thoroughly moist. I was tearing roots left and right. How about this one. Transplant when the leaves are on yet so it sends the energy to new fall roots or as soon as the leaves change colors? |
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Mon, Sep 3, 12 at 11:58
| Whaas, if you are actually transplanting from one spot in your yard to another, I'd wait until at least the point where the leaves are well into color change. True, green leaves would indicate some active nutrient synthesis/transport but any advantage in this would be more than overshadowed by the disturbance to the tree(s) from being moved at that point in their winter preparations. IMO. If I've got this wrong and what you're talking about is planting some potted or B&B stock, now is an excellent time to do so. +oM |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Sep 3, 12 at 13:07
| in my z5.. fall or spring.. i like to think that fall gives you two cool seasons for root growth.. interrupted by suspended animation of frozen soil.. before the heat of next summer ... the guy from dawes once suggested.. that spring ONLY for yellow tissue conifers ... which have a hard time with desiccation in winter even w/o the move ... the key to fall.. is that 90 degree plus days should be gone.. and those nice chilly 50 degree nights [air] give them time to recuperate from whatever the day gave them ... whether it is timed before or after leaf fall.. probably doesnt matter.. if shocked enough.. they will fall off anyway.. their jobs are mostly done anyway ... the problem of waiting until mid-oct to move them.. is the 30 less days of potential root growth ... as to root growth .. its all about soil temps [not air] ... have your mulch handy.. but dont pile it on.. until thxgiving.. so the sun can heat the soil late into fall ... with the cool nights.. water should not be a problem .... 6 of this.. half dozen of the other.. when you boil it all down .... ken |
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| whaas, I agree with Ken. Now would seem to be the right time for you plant them. At my location I like Late September at the earliest, but prefer October if they can be watered if the weather turns out to be dry as it often is during that month. If they can not be watered, then I prefer to wait till November. Probable subtract about a month from each of those to adjust from climate differences with one major caveat. Our ground rarely freezes deeply or for prolonged periods, so keep that in mind for the times stated. Arktrees |
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| Both plants would be dug up from from the earth. The only reason I asked is that both plants are on the "best to transplant in spring". Bald cypress and Yellowwood are also on the list. Perhaps this is more or less for larger b&b. Odds are that I'm not going to tear and cut too many roots. |
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- Posted by toronado3800 Z6 St. Louis (My Page) on Mon, Sep 3, 12 at 23:26
| Ug on transplanting Nyssa. That one gives me trouble. How large a transplant do you have and how long has it been in the ground? Young Nyssas do the tap root thing to me. |
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| I planted a nyssa in the fall last year and it took. I did the same thing two years ago with bad results. Those things sure are finicky. They weren't transplants from my garden but rather saplings I ordered online. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Sep 4, 12 at 7:49
| The only reason I asked is that both plants are on the "best to transplant in spring". ==>>> what is the source of this knowledge.. if its some guy in warm z6 or hotter.. it is correct.. if its from a northern gardener.. it might mean something ... the info provided on any given website .. is only as good as the source.. and with the WWW i often wonder or speculate.. on the source of the info ... as i said.. in my z5.. its either/or .. you should be about the same ... i learned this lesson .. when some great hosta books came out of Britain ... they listed every single hosta as full sun ... well.. at 60 degrees north [2/3 of the way to the north pole!].. and the north atlantic drift [which makes parts of it z9!!!].. thats how things are done over there.. but i started trouble.. when i unilaterally accepted the info as applicable to me in MI at 45 degrees north.. and the hot midwest... you have my thoughts .. do whatever pleases you .. ken |
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| FWIW, I have seen studies conducted in Tennessee that showed survival of dogwoods was best if transplanted in the very early spring. I am aware of no similar studies with Blackgum. Also FWIW, I planted our species Blackgum in the fall after it had dropped all leaves, and root pruned heavily. Other than small leaves the first year (as expected), it had no issues with planting in the fall. Arktrees |
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| That is the type of information I was after. I recall that Johnsons Nursery here in WI had a spring and fall dig list. Certain trees where never dug in fall. I guess I could call them on these species. The "best to transplant in spring" list was a U of Minnesota listing. As always appreciate the info from everyone. |
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- Posted by gardengal48 PNW zone 8 (My Page) on Tue, Sep 4, 12 at 13:38
| The only reason I asked is that both plants are on the "best to transplant in spring". ==>>> what is the source of this knowledge.. if its some guy in warm z6 or hotter.. it is correct.. Really?? Sez who?? Most horticulturists concur that fall is an almost ideal time for planting and transplanting trees and shrubs regardless of location. Soil temperatures remain warm well into early winter, air temperatures moderate, rains become more frequent and roots are very active at this time of year. All of these factors combine to hasten and encourage establishment before the onset of winter and the trials of the next growing season. Exactly when in fall this should or can be done is somewhat more dependent on location. One should allow about 6 weeks before the first hard frost or temperatures that dip below 28F for a sustained period. After that, soil temperatures cool sufficiently to limit significant root growth. If soils don't freeze to any significance (zones 7, 8 and above), one can continue planting and transplanting throughout winter......root growth and development is still present but to a greatly reduced degree. |
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