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| Hello,
I am thinking about planting some oaks and I see articles online about how air-pruned roots (i.e. no tap root) allow the tree to grow faster because the plant has more small roots branching out. However, when the tree is established, won't the taproot be important both for drought conditions, but to help anchor the tree in extreme weather? Thanks, |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 0:14
| Am, air root-pruning has pretty much revolutionized the industry's efforts towards marketing some of the oaks, hickories, etc. It sure does enhance survivability. Once established, there may well be new taproot formation, but really, it is not much different than establishing any other, non-taproot forming species. +oM |
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| In a typical pot the tap root will either coil-up at bottom of pot or find a hole out and root into the ground - to be cut off when you move the pot. The air-pruned theory is to reroute the tap root growth to all the roots due to exposure of roots to air. Thus very little root loss is experienced upon transplant. |
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- Posted by AmericanGardner none (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 1:06
| Thanks guys, I think I understand how air pruning works. However, I can buy seedlings with a taproot, or plant acorns straight into the ground (thus no taproot loss). |
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- Posted by gardener365 IL 5/6 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 8:46
| Air pruning stops tap-root formation as suggested above. Once the trees are planted to pots that don't allow for further air pruning, the taproot (that will re-form) will wind itself in the pot in a short period of time. That's what you need to be aware of should you be purchasing them in pots. And if you or anyone does purchase trees with tap roots twisting and circling, again, the tap root much be pruned off at a place where it is straight, once-again. The preferred method is planting the nut straight to the ground, however, don't expect it to be there later because there are scavengers lurking about, and they will find them. To help, plant 3-5 acorns per hole, and eliminate the weaker of the bunch, keeping the strongest-grower. I'd personally recommend you cage each area, as well. Caging will keep other critters from eating your fresh seedlings and will give you a marker as to where you planted so you can easily monitor the seedling(s) for watering while protecting them for several years while they're establishing and taking off. Dax |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 9:30
| hey .. welcome to GW ... in my non-scientific opinion.. the tap root is just another root.. and is .. frankly irrelevant.. other than being a functioning root ... its only function .. IMHO .. is when it bursts out of the acorn .. in this case.. and secures the acorn and the top part.. to the ground.. so it can all get hold.. and start its life ... it wouldnt do any good to have the seedlings rolling around on top of the soil ... after the first season.. again.. IMHO.. its just another root ... and worrying about it on transplant.. is a waste of time ... failure of a transplant.. will have nothing to do with cutting of the tap root.. just all the other variables ... other peeps can talk about the science ... my opinion is based simply on transplanting hundreds of trees ... imho ... you are confusing mass production theory.. with planting and moving acorns in the garden ... mass producers of trees ... do many things.. a guy with a pocket full of acorns.. simply doesnt need to do nor worry about .. e.g. growing a seedling faster for profit ... of course.. it never hurts to learn or read about all this stuff.. but when push comes to shove.. just be your inner squirrel.. and bury them about the depth of the acorn ... like any other bulb ... [and if you are going into mass production.. and using us as your experts.. well.. good luck with that.. advice is worth what you pay for it ... lol] ken |
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| "However, when the tree is established, won't the taproot be important both for drought conditions, but to help anchor the tree in extreme weather?" You are correct. The taproot definitely makes for a better adapted tree in most situations. However, as pointed out by some above, the air-root-pruned potted oaks are the next best thing to the naturally-developed acorn-planted-in-final-location trees. It is not practical, at least for most oaks, to grow a properly developing taproot in a pot with an oak of any size at all. The taproots grow very deep, very quickly. I would never dream of saying " the tap root is just another root", but I would advise you not to worry too much about not having a fully developed one unless you are striving for the ideal tree for future generations. Air-root-pruned trees generally do pretty well. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 19:08
| I would never dream of saying " the tap root is just another root", but I would advise you not to worry too much about ==>>. you wouldnt dream of saying a lot of things i do brandon .. so whats your point... you say what i said is not repeatable.. then agree.. its much to do about nothing ... i guess the 80 odd oaks in my yard that i have transplanted ... are going to die in 100 to 200 years.. eh?? ... lol .. and AGardener ... we are friends.. we are trash talking trees .. lol ... do understand such .... ken |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 19:14
| let me rephrase it this way .... of all the things to perfect.. starting with good stock.. proper size.. proper planting.. proper mulching.. proper watering.. proper drainage ... proper everything.. [no amending .. no fertilizing ..etc] THE ABSOLUTE LAST THING IN THE WORLD... for success... that i would worry.. or even think about.. WOULD BE THE FREAKIN TAP ROOT ... i will repeat.. its just another root ... whether it is there or not.. will have no impact on success ... presuming everything else is PROPER ... its a great subject for pondering while gazing at your bellybutton ... hoisting a spotted cow ... but otherwise.. pshaw on its importance ... there brandon.. stick that in your ear and spin .. lol ken ps: i dont even know what that means ... lol |
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| Ken, Cultivated trees (trees in your yard), on average, have much much shorter lives than trees in natural conditions. Compromises, like growing tap-rooted trees in pots are part of the problem. Advising someone not to worry too much about something that could possibly be mostly out of their control does not mean that the thing is inconsequential! Advising someone that a potential problem may not be overly consequential over a limited time period does not mean the problem does not exist! If you don't consider the tap-root important, that's fine, but many of us are familiar with the potential issues and concerns, and aren't nearly so inclined to ignore the importance of the taproot. |
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| BTW, Ken, when you are gone and they open your place as a national historic horticultural landmark, it's gonna be a shame that all those oaks dies early. Of course, if they die before they get too big, maybe that'll keep them from shading out all the conifers. And, fewer oaks will mean more room for maples. Hehehehehe |
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sat, Oct 6, 12 at 21:37
| Hell, the way things are going all over the northern region, maples are going to take over Ken's spot someday regardless! +oM |
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| I would have to say planting acorns, (which will need protection over the fall/winter) is best for getting oaks growing and not needing your help the following growth season (s). Unless the tree is meant for a moist climate and you plant it in a dry climate. I planted some acorns and put a peice of screen over it and then a rock on top. Whatever does the job. I have the air pruned trees planted also, but for the least care all spring/ summer and thereafter, my choice would be acorn planting. Imho. |
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- Posted by jimbobfeeny 5a IN (My Page) on Sun, Oct 7, 12 at 11:09
| Root-pruned oaks generally send out sinker roots if conditions present themselves. I think the reason most yard trees don't live long is gardner error. Trees grow best if you leave 'em alone! I'd say that even in root-pruning pots, you're better off planting trees in their permanent space when they're still young - 3 years or so. Trees planted as 3 foot tall saplings will have good root systems and be well noticeable in the landscape by the time they're 5 years old. By 15, they are already 30 feet tall (most trees around here, anyways), and growing 3 feet a year. A sugar maple I planted 2 years ago put on 5 feet of new growth this year! I guess what I'm trying to say, is don't worry about taproots and fibrous roots - Get the things IN THE GROUND when they're young. |
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