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| I've finally cut back most of our October snow storm damage and am looking for advice on further pruning. A few of the older trees are very misshapen now and I'm wondering when would be the best time to shape them.
For instance an old Flowering Magnolia lost one of 4 trunks with another loosing most of it's major branches. What would be the least stressful time to prune this already stressed out tree, late winter 2012 or in 2013? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| It's hard to give advice without more information, and any advice we could give would just be vague generalizations (which you could likely find with a quick google search). Multiple good pictures might help greatly. |
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- Posted by toronado3800 Z6 St. Louis (My Page) on Sat, Nov 19, 11 at 13:28
| That snowfall really hit folks hard. If you already cut back the damage correctly I would probably wait till the late winter to do more. My concern is you will find more damage or some die back by then if some buds do not appear right by the superbowl. Use photobucket or the like to post pictures on this forum. You'll get some good advice from folks with tons of experience. |
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- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sat, Nov 19, 11 at 16:53
| Eclayne, just use the normal best window for pruning woody plants-late winter/early spring, before buds are swelling. Unless I'm missing something, I see no point in waiting a whole additional year. +oM |
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| Thanks for the fast responses. This is greatly appreciated as I've never had to deal with so much damage. It was like listening to gun shots all night long. The worst hit were a saucer magnolia, japanese maple, weeping cherry and of course everyone's silver maples and birches. The magnolia was hit the worst, loosing 1 of 4 main trunks (near the base) and most limbs on a 2nd. While no expert at pruning I know some basics. I'm sure there is damage I've missed like split limbs high up that I just can't see. There are still spots where limbs broke off that I haven't sawed clean yet but I'll get to those. I was taught to do this outside the "branch collar"? by the orchard farmer I worked summers for as a kid. He also told me not to bother with paint. Is this true? Anyway, to re-shape the trees, all 35-45 years old, will require some significant pruning. If this won't further stress them I'll get to it in Feb., March. I'll try to post some pics. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Nov 19, 11 at 19:06
| answer me this batman.. who paints the trees in the forest.. that live a couple hundred years.. no one!!!! if God had meant trees to be painted.. he would have given the trees arms to paint themselves .. and very large cars to get to the paint store... dont you think ... listen to me... with NO INSULT to the root mass.. these trees will explode with advantageous growth.. it is imperative.. that you properly prune them before that growth ... stuff happens.. you know what i mean.. and you remove DAMAGED parts.. and then let the plant.. next year.. respond ... if after next year or the year after .. you find that it needs some guidance.. or shaping ... then think about that then ... simply repair or remove damage.. and then give them time to get their act together ... put simply.. i am of the opinion.. that damaged parts are removed IMMEDIATELY .... w/o hesitation.. and without thought as to when the proper time is.. i prune trees.. when i walk by with the saw.. 24/7/365 .... the proper time to remove damage.. was 2 hours before you made this post ... if there is damage high up.. and it threatens anything or anyone.. hire that job out.... or die in your sleep when it falls on your house .. a bit of drama there.. to motivate you .. lol .. ken
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| Thanks Ken, and who you callin' batman! :) The few un-cut breaks remaining are all of the climb and hand saw variety. |
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| As far as how to prune, many useful guides are available on-line. Here are some: US Forest Service on How to Prune Trees And, of course, you can find many many many more with a quick google search. You can also find many threads, in this forum, on the topic. Concepts like using branch bark ridges and branch collars as guides, not heading/topping limbs, etc should be explained in most of the guides. |
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