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Pruning Young Trees
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Posted by whaas 5a (My Page) on Sun, Nov 1, 09 at 14:22
| I understand the general rules for how, when and why to prune.
But when can I begin pruning young trees?
I have many trees that will be on year 2 or 3 in spring (many are between 2"-4" caliper). I know some of them need crossing branches removed, some thinning etc.
Some sources say wait 5 years before pruning (except diseased, broken or dead branches). What is your experience?
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RE: Pruning Young Trees
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- Posted by bboy USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA (My Page) on
Sun, Nov 1, 09 at 15:18
| Prune when needed at right time for particular kind of tree. If there are branches that need to be removed or modified in order to get a satisfactory shape later waiting 5 years will only allow the situation to become worse. |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| Some sources say wait 5 years before pruning (except diseased, broken or dead branches). What is your experience? I used to run the volunteer crews for a non-profit that had a contract with a city for young tree structural pruning. IIRC our contract was to ensure the first pruning was done before the trees were in the ground for 3 years. Go for it this winter. Don't remove more than 25% of crown. Dan |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| i remove crossing branches IMMEDIATELY upon discovery ...its always the first cuts ... next comes damaged... then aesthetics .... and eye protection ... raising the canopy ... i tend to prune... whenever i walk by with the saw .. or it irritates me so badly that i walk the 500 feet to the garage.. and get the saw.. and walk all the way back and teach it a lesson.. that usually involves them hitting me in the face or knocking off my hat ... after two years .... i usually take a branch or two off the bottom .... to force energy upwards .... and one or two in fall .... all depending on the general shape of the tree ... and what is available to remove .... if you are going for height eventually ... feel free to remove all the nubs 3 to 6 inches long.. on the trunk ... its much easier than when they are 6 feet long.. and 2 inches thick ... otherwise... what DAN said ... ken ps: if you are scared.. post a good pic .. and we can photoshop it and give you ideas ... pps: do prune.. but dont ever forget.. that you can always take it off next year.. you cant glue them back on.. lol ... |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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In growing Black Walnut or RedOak for timber purpose.The Walnut you can start the year you plant it or at two years old.The first few years concentrating on correct form.Side branchs remove if they are 2/3 the hieght of the tree,or you can think of it as a branch that is trying to be the leader.
My plantation is twenty years old and I have volunter walnuts coming up and it seems to me like the sooner you start training your tree to grow straight the better chances on getting a sraight tree.
This is how I interpit the many manuals for pruning walnut.
Red Oak on the other hand prune mainly for form,side branchs will be pruned when dead.
You also want to be aware of sudden oak death,to avoid this only prune when dormant.
Again ,this is what works for me and on the advise of my county forester. lp |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| I have several trees that have several trunks/stems. Its obvious which trunks need to be removed BUT...they make for about 20% of the crown. Do you feel its an issue to remove such a large stem during their establishment? Trees in question....Katsura, Lilac, Serviceberry, Seven Son Flower. If its too questionable I can take pictures. |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| not much info to help you .... get the pix up ... and personally.. i would prefer one tree .. one post .... otherwise the conversation becomes too overwhelming ... IMHO .... my 7 sons.. has been a diseased ... sparse .. failure to grow.. pain in the behind for years .... every time i try to prune it.. the whole branch dies.. so i will stay away from that one ... i have come to the conclusion its personal ... it just doesnt like me.... ken |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| Multiple trunks or codominate leaders are not as much of an issue with most shade trees as they can be with conifers. Many species of trees lose the tendency to develop a distinct leader after they put on a few years - the term is 'decurrent'. I would not necessarily prune out just an "extra" trunk or stem simply because they exist but would examine them closely to determine if the multiple stems/trunks are truly creating a hazardous growth habit or one that will create problems down the road. Of the four you mention, all have a strong tendency to produce multiple stems/trunks - heptacodium and lilac are actually considered multi-stemmed, suckering shrubs although they are sometimes trained as single trunked trees. Amelanchiers, depending on species, are also very commonly found as multistemmed specimens. If you have questions specific to the need to prune an individual tree/shrub, it would be best to post photos and ask for opinions. Just based on what you have stated, I'd be disinclined to do any serious pruning on any of the four species you mention. |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| I'll post a new topic specific to the trees and post some pics. Thanks! |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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- Posted by bboy USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA (My Page) on
Wed, Nov 4, 09 at 12:50
| I'd look each kind up in some good pruning books with extensive encyclopedia sections describing what works with each particular one. Libraries here have these, I was also able a few years ago to buy multiple different titles (of varying scope) all at one time from local shops. |
RE: Pruning Young Trees
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| Excellent, then once I post pics you can put them to good use, lol! |
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