thanks

Ken-

.......your brevity cracks me up. Wife asking me what's so funny..........

Would all be lost in the explanation.......

"The secret to a good sermon is to have a good beginning and a good ending;
and to have the two as close together as possible."

I used to wrap trunks I thought were in danger of scald but then the kids came along and it was every tree for itself. No time.........

Please give details on how and with what material?

Why non-native?

The rule is to wrap all THIN barked trees. Doesn't matter if they are native or non-native. Its amazing the advice Extension Agents give out.

I wrapped my trees a month ago as it pulls double duty....buck rub and winter sun. Bucks start their damage late Sept/October.

I swear by the white vinyl spiral wrap. AM Leonard seems to have the best prices from what I can find.

By the way this is a form of spam/advertising on your part, lol.

Edit: Added link

Here is a link that might be useful: Spiral Wrap

This post was edited by whaas on Mon, Nov 25, 13 at 21:26

I do wrap some trees, but usually in response to finding scald or animal damage after a tough winter. Not normally do I worry about it proactively.

......I guess the size/caliper that we're talking about would guide the advice given.....

say hey clay ...

whaas got it ...

this is just an advert to generate blog traffic ...

in theory ... against the rules.. sorta ... i didnt see the blog selling anything... so i guess its not really advertising for profit ...

but it struck me as odd ... that i come to a posting board.. to have virtual conversations with you all ... and this link wants to take me out to the back room.. where we exclude the GW peeps.. and have a private conversation ... or sermon in essence ...

so it was either turn them in for spam ... or just say thx ... so thats all i said ... lol

i dont recall the article with specificity ... but only recall.. that it seemed a bit over-inclusive in the general statements of the necessity of such ...

i used to wrap everything.. then i got older.. less time to mess with such ... actually i still have the time.. i just got downright lazy .. lol..

so what if they get bark damage.. they are trees.. not children ... they dont need to be nestled in for winter .... and i dont feed them either ....

ken

GOOD ADVICE....wrap your trees that face the winter sun.
Its probably thought the sun in winter cant do much but this is not the case.
The sun can cause sap to flow...which, when the temperatures go down...freezes, splits the bark and opens it to disease and pests.
The sun will continue to cause the sap to run....and split.
So wrapping with tree-wrap up to at least the first outcropping of branch will protect them.
It can also deter mice, squirrels, skunks----whathaveya....to being chewed on at their base.

Denver Designer's post is a good one for those of us in the high altitude west. I lost at least a half a dozen trees to sunscald/trunk splitting when I first started planting.

I've learned now to take a sharpie with me and mark the southwest side of the trunk when I'm tree shopping (once I've picked the tree I'm buying). That way I can plant the tree positioned the same direction it faced at the nursery.

For the front range, it was recommended to winter wrap nearly all deciduous trees for the first 3 years, on at Thanksgiving, off at Easter. The local info I'm seeing now says wrap for 6-7 years, on at Halloween, off at Easter.
I think I'll stick with CSU's info. The link to their info sheet should be included if I did this right.

Not applicable for most of you, but things are a bit different here in the Rockies.

Barb

Here is a link that might be useful: Sunscald

barb, just curious why do you mark the south side of the tree and plant in the same position?

Whaas,

The owner of one of my favorite nurseries here advised me to do that, along with tree wrap when we talked about the trees that split. The sun is super intense here, you can sunburn in 20 minutes. His theory is to do it so the part of the tree that's already acclimated to the most sun exposure remains oriented the same way at planting.

I tend to window shop trees at a specific nursery here throughout the season and go back for them at fall 1/2 price sales. I get a map of their stock every year and mark the locations of the ones I want. They use drip irrigation in the pots and have the trees tied to portable fencing between the rows as it's very windy here sometimes. They tend not to move their stock much as a result.

If I'm on a fools errand (wrong, full of cr*p) here, let me know! I don't mind looking like an idiot as long as I get the correct info, It won't be the first (or last) time!;o)

Barb