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| Hello All, I would like to enlist your help here with my wayward Southern Magnolia (magnolia grandiflora). For the past three years, it has been doing spectacularly. I had to prune off a couple branches (one of which was a co dominant leader) early on but no big deal. As many of you who have seen these trees may know, the branches on some cultivars are quite long in comparison to its height. About 70% of the way up the trunk, a branch formed that seemed normal at first but then turned steeply upward and appears to be competing with the central leader. I�m not sure how to deal with it. Should I: 1. Cut this branch off flush with the trunk. (it will leave a large void) 2. Cut this branch off halfway to prevent it from lengthening any further 3. Do something else (with guide wires etc.) to train the branch downward 4. Do nothing, in hopes that eventually the branch will grow large enough such that its own weight will push it down towards the horizontal. Let me know your thoughts. The tree is currently about 11 feet tall and has a long way to go. I would like this to be as symmetrical and majestic as many of the other Southern magnolias in the area. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, Nov 30, 12 at 18:48
| please make me understand this equation: I would like this to be as symmetrical and majestic as many of the other Southern magnolias in the area. PLUS Do something else (with guide wires etc.) to train the branch downward EQUALS WHAT???? forget about that .. IMHO ... all those crafty words.. any chance at a picture???? on words alone.. i dont know how a branch can defeat and over come the dominance of the original ... so i wonder if you are making a mountain out of a molehill ... pic?? ken |
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| "Should I...Cut this branch off flush with the trunk?" Certainly not! You never prune trees that way. "Should I...Cut this branch off halfway to prevent it from lengthening any further?" Certainly not, if I am understanding what you are trying to say. You very rarely prune trees that way, and never with larger branches. "Should I...Do something else...(or) Do nothing?" Hard to say without, at least, a picture. |
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- Posted by MisterTristern none (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 2:12
| Here is the most recent picture I have from a few months ago. It may be a bit difficult to tell because of all the leaves, but the branch in question can be seen about 70% up to the right of the trunk angled sharply upward. It is actually a bit longer than the central leader. The void space on the lower right was caused by the removal of a sucker earlier this spring. Looking forward to your constructive feedback. Thanks |
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- Posted by MisterTristern none (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 2:15
| This is the view facing north, and it appears alot of the growth this season was at the top and facing the south side of the tree. |
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| I would leave it be. Human intervention isn't necessary to get these trees symmetrical as long as parts of a tree are not being shaded by surrounding vegetation. I have had trees damaged in the past few seasons by snow load, ice, and wind. They may be unbalanced for a time, but usually will regain balanced growth. The more typical pruning question with these trees is the question of removing low branches. But I NEVER even do this as it greatly protects the tree from trunk damage--especially deer that favor all Magnolias due to their smooth bark. |
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- Posted by alabamatreehugger 8a/8b south Alabama (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 11:28
| I had to look really hard for it, but i see it now. If it were mine I'd probably remove that branch, but I'd wait until early spring just before the new growth starts. If it were an older tree I'd say no, but your tree is young enough to easily recover from losing that branch. |
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| I just can't tell from the picture. In general, I agree with Njoasis that SMs usually don't need much intervention to attain a symmetrical crown. But, I probably would remove a branch that was becoming way overly dominant (as your description suggests). The way to do this is to prune immediately outside the branch bark ridge and collar. I think you are probably familiar with those terms, but, if not, just google them. When doing this, I'd first remove the majority of the branch first (to allow better access to the area of the final cut and to reduce weight that could cause damage during that final cut), and then come back and make the final precision cut in the appropriate location (immediately outside the BBR/C). |
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- Posted by alabamatreehugger 8a/8b south Alabama (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 14:59
| Where I live there's lots of Southern Magnolias out in the woods, and they do tend to produce double leaders quite often, but SM is a strong wooded tree so it doesn't usually cause problems. In a yard tree, I would try to keep a central leader, but either way it'll be fine. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Dec 1, 12 at 16:24
| your goal as stated: I would like this to be as symmetrical and majestic as many of the other Southern magnolias in the area. ==>> in regard to that goal.. of what importance is it.. if there are two leaders ... as others have suggested ... it will achieve symmetry.. because that is what trees do.. when grown in full sunshine ... and being evergreen.. why is a hidden branch an issue to you.. if you were here in MI .. where the trees [no SM's of course] are nudie for 6 months .. i could understand some need for bare symmetry ... but let me suggest.. if you quit sticking your head in the bush.. you wont really be all that concerned about its branching habits ... lol now.. i dont 'do' SM's .. not even sure if i have ever seen one in person.. so.. referring to the link .. i see that many are trained into tree form ... and if that is a function of your goal above.. then perhaps its time to start taking off a few of the lower branches.. and start establishing the trunk ... [BTW.. i see an old stake.. how long has it been in situ??? .. we dont prune heavily for a few years] .... and i am wondering if your focus.. is perhaps not 60 or 70% too high at this time .... so if your goal is a 5 to 6 foot trunk.. before the canopy.. then perhaps it is not time to start 7 foot up ... start at the bottom.. a little every year.. and when you get to this one.. we can decide what to do.. and in the meantime.. it will figure out what it wants to do with that branch ... i am trying to take you thru my thought process.. when it all boils down.. never forget.. its your tree and your saw.. and you have fun with both ... good luck ken |
Here is a link that might be useful: link
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| Yes, it's co-dominant, and I'd attend to it before the tree attained much more growth. I'm curious as to your zone. It helps sometimes when giving answers. |
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- Posted by MisterTristern none (My Page) on Sun, Dec 2, 12 at 23:06
| Here is an additional picture taken about the same time as the first, facing southwest. I�m afraid it�s not quite as definitive as the first picture, but provides an idea of the growth habit of this particular tree. Calliope: Ken: |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Dec 4, 12 at 7:59
| I prefer to leave the lower limbs there. ==>> as long as its an informed decision .. good .. rather than a fear that cutting a tree will kill it ... i still dont see a co-dominant leader ... and i would leave it alone.. but as above.. you do.. what ever makes you happy.. with your TREE ... BTW.. whats the crotch look like .. that is more important.. than the second leader per se [in and of itself] .. as to storm failure ... dont you think?? maybe a pic of that???? ken |
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