|
| I can't decide if I should remove this branch completely due to the caliper or if I should cut it back.
Your vote? Its a hybrid Shantung maple.
|
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| You need to remove the green ties ASAP, whatever else you do. |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Nov 26, 12 at 7:00
| which branch ??? last pic .... the thumb.. the little finger .. or the middle finger.??? ken |
|
| As to the entire branch, 1st pic the branch to the right, 2nd and 3rd pic its the same branch to the left. If I were to cut it back, I'd probably go about it this way. Just not sure if I should cut it back or remove it completely since the caliper is almost equal to the main trunk/leader in that area.
|
|
| If it were me, I'd cut it back more aggressively than your drawing suggests (completely remove three smaller branches at top of branch in question, and prune larger top one, on that branch, probably a node lower than that shown in the picture). Then I'd reevaluate in a year or so. Definitely remove the tree bondage ASAP. |
|
| p.s. ...unless it's doing more than it appears to be from the picture. |
|
| Like so in red or even lower to the green cut? If I go that low, then it would be closer in proportion to the branching on the left. I put the stake on this summer to pull in the leader. It was at a 50 degree angle. I intend to move it in spring before growth kicks in.
|
|
| Yep, red looks pretty good. Green's probably fine too and would be easier. |
|
| Thanks...sometimes pruning is just as much an art than anything. One the reasons I like to get feedback before I go hacking away. |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Nov 27, 12 at 7:42
| why take the top red one???? green is too far .. for now ..... i dont know how you cut the larger center one.. w/o obliterating the two tiny ones you wish to save w/o leaving a stump .. in my world.. if thats the goal.. wait a year or two ... until they are bigger .. and you can actually work in that crotch ... do NOT feel that everything has to be done SOON ... with trees.. that have the potential to be there a hundred years.. there is no reason .. your pruning 'goal' .. can NOT be a multi-year plan ... though your aim may be the green level.. whats the hurry to go there now.. are you afraid the tree will leave one night?? ... lol ... when the trunk at the top red mark ... is a 6 or 12 inches thick ... it will basically look straight ... try to let out your inner artist.. rather than your outer engineer .... and try to let this thing do its own thing ... rather than worrying.. a year after planting.. that it isnt engineered perfectly to specs ... good luck ken |
|
| "why take the top red one????" To reduce the apical dominance (thereby growth rate) of that main branch. "green is too far" Maybe, maybe not. On a vigorous tree the wound would be closed over in one year. My first reaction was that it might be a little too aggressive, but, after thinking about it, believe it would be a valid option. |
|
- Posted by tsugajunkie z5 SE WI (My Page) on Tue, Nov 27, 12 at 18:52
| I'd have to see the whole tree. Cutting to the green may leave an over-all form that is, well, giving you the finger. Did anyone mention removing the stake...;-) tj |
|
| Here you go!
|
|
- Posted by tsugajunkie z5 SE WI (My Page) on Tue, Nov 27, 12 at 22:00
| If the root system is such that it requires a stake (I see the strap was moved), I'd do nothing for a year or two. As for the splint, I'd move it down (when it warms up this weekend) so over half is below the crook you want to straighten. That should make it a bit more rigid. tj |
|
- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Tue, Nov 27, 12 at 23:01
| The rule of thumb that I go by is that in doing a heading cut, whatever the purpose, the branchlet that is cut back to be at least one third the diameter of that which is removed. So by this, even the green cut would nearly qualify. But this is only a general rule. Nobody's out there with a tiny C-tape checking! Also note, this is across the whole range of basically broadleaved deciduous trees. There's no hard evidence to think that all species' reaction to pruning is identical. But at the same time, this generally yields acceptable results. +oM |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Trees Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.