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figboy_gw

Water Ring w/yard hydrants for 5 acre property

figboy
15 years ago

Im a long time reader of the website, and though I've posted a few replies, this is my first question.

I've got about 5 acres around my home and I have a water well. I've roughly divided the property up in several sections: 1 section for pecan trees (14 each at this point); 1 section for fig trees (14 each); 1 section for peach, pear and plum trees (20 each +/-); 1 section of Doyle's Thornless Blackberries (10 each), blueberries, various types of magnolias, crepe myrtles and the list goes on.

Eventually, I'd like to put in a drip system for them. IÂve got quite a bit of drip tape I bought on clearance I intend to use. But at this point, I've purchased about 2000' of 1-1/2" 200 psi irrigation pipe (thank you Craigslist!) with the intention of installing this 1-1/2" pvc pipe "Water Ring" all the way around my property about half way between my house and the property line on all sides of my house. Then, I intend to eventually install enough yard hydrants around the property so that no point on my property will be further than 100Â from a water hydrant, that is to say no further than the length of a 100Â garden hose. (I got that idea from someone on this website some time ago.)

1. Initially, I only intend to install about 4 yard hydrants to start out with. IÂm planning on using the 2Â bury depth yard hydrants like Home Depot and Tractor Supply have. Our frost line is 18" in this area.

2. Install a backflow preventer once I begin installing the water ring.

3. Connect to water supply just outside of well house.

4. Rather than having dead ends in various branches of pipelines, IÂll make the 1-1/2" pvc a continuous loop (again, what I call a Water Ring) so that it will have equal pressure all the way around the Water Ring to each yard hydrant.

5. Install threaded elbows on each yard hydrant so it will have some "give" and wonÂt break as easily.

6. Pour concrete collars around each yard hydrant to keep them from getting damaged.

Once I start installing the drip system (much later), IÂll attach the valves to this 1-1/2" pvc water ring, or I may just install battery powered timers from the yard hydrants like some folks have done.

So, here are some questions:

1. Should I install an in-line water pump with some kind of flow switch to keep the pressure in the pipe up when IÂm running water? LetÂs say the water ring is going to be roughly 800Â in length.

2. Should I install any kind of inline filter, or should I wait until I start installing the drip system and put one on each zone?

IÂll call 1-800-DIGTESS before I start trenching to locate underground power lines and cables. Does anyone have any advice on trenching? Since IÂll be renting the trencher, probably from Home Depot, and since itÂs so expensive, I thought I might go ahead and figure out where I want the additional yard hydrants and trench to their spots, and then install all elbows with a "false" pvc riser that I could unscrew and simply screw in the yard hydrant when I buy them. The yard hydrants are between $30 and $40 each, so IÂll be buying them one or two at a time.

I really enjoy the website and I appreciate all the responses everyone takes the time to give!

Comments (4)

  • lehua49
    15 years ago

    Hi figboy,

    You have done your homework and are ready to do things in steps. The initial step seems to be the biggest. So don't get burned out at the start. I would check with a few local contract/landscaper who would be willing to supply the supervision, rental equipment and know how to finish the initial step fast. This will save your enthusiasm for the fine tuning which is where contractors screw up without your close scrutiny anyway. You might be surprised at how affordable the labor would be on a competitively bid project. Also, check out a pressure tank that feeds pressure to your system while the pump is not running. With drip you will need a pressure regulator with a direct pump system. With a tank you can automate and use the tank as a regulator and filter. What do others think. JMHO GL Aloha.

  • figboy
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you for the reply, lehuan13!

    Although I didn't find very much information or get any other replies, I think I'm figuring out how to do it. I rented a "stand on "trencher (Compact Power Pro)from Home Depot, but it was too small. It took me almost 3.5 hours to trench and 18" deep trench about 40'.

    A few weekends later I rented a 30+ horsepower Ditchwitch. The first one I rented ended up developing a hydraulic leak (due to nothing I did, two pipes were rubbing together) less than half way through the trenching process. Luckily, the rental place simply gave me a complete refund. I rented another a few weeks later and finished the trenching with only one problem: I kind of got stuck for a while. One of my buddies came and pulled me out the next day, and I finished the trenching.

    Up to this point, I haven't backfilled yet, and it was a good thing I didn't. I had a bad joint and had to repair it. I purchased another pressure take off of Craigslist, and then I bought a booster pump with an attached flow switch from Harbor Freight. Hopefully the booster pump will work. Im also debating on whether or not to install a transformer in the well house to feed both the submersible well and the booster pump. I ve got 10 or 12 gauge wire run to the well house, Im just not sure if it could handle the two pumps running simultaneously, but on the other hand, at this point Im not sure if the current wire could run a transformer

    My well house looks like it may just be big enough for the two pressure tanks and the booster pump, but it's going to be close. Within the next few weeks I'll figure out if I need to enlarge the well house. Odds are I probably will have to enlarge it, but we'll see.

    I also intend to TRY and drill another well to supply the irrigation lines. I've got a buddy that bought a Deeprock hydra drill and is drilling his own well. When he gets done, I'll buy it from him and try and drill my own. My own well is about 330' deep, but the Deeprock only goes down to 200'. I'm not sure how deep I need to go, but I only want go deep enough to get surface water.

    We'll see--trial by error!!

  • lehua49
    14 years ago

    Hi fig,

    I guess you are on your way "damn the torpedoes full speed ahead". I hope you can perceive that having gone with a contractor for the digging might have saved you some headache medicine. Why do you want a transformer on the well house? Again not your usual DIY project. Do you need 3-phase power there? What do your pumps require as far as volts and current? An Irrigation Landscape specialist can give a good plan from which to work from. Otherwise Google is a great resource to educate yourself. Why do you need a booster pump with a submersible? What head(pressure)and flow do you have at your pump outlet? Why are they both in the well house? What head loss does 800 ft of 1 1/2" pvc pipe produce when pumping at your pressure and flow. A look does not give you better pressure and flow. It just allows you to keep watering in portions of the loop when a repair is necessary in another part but you need to install gate valve along the loop at each hydrant to isolate the damaged portion. Answer the above question to obtain a better picture of what you want to accomplish and how.

    Good luck drilling another well that will increase your overall flow amount but interconnecting the well pumps to work together is tricky.

  • fairview
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The plan sounds fairly workable. By looping an 800' system, you've basically cut your system in half to 400' thereby reducing friction. I would consider the following:

    1. Upsize the feed pipe from the pump to the T in the loop. This way you will adequate flow going in both directions if you are irrigating multiple zones at the same time.

    2. Individually pressure regulate each zone and not the system. Drip systems should not exceed 35 psi or you will be blowing hoses and or emiters off the lines.

    3. If your first well is 330' and the second well is going to be nearby, the second well will need to be deeper than the first. As water is pulled out of a well the water table in the adjacent area is also drawn down. Using the deeper well first may dry up the second before you even use it. Hate to see you do all that work for naught.

    4. 18" is way deep enough. If it was me, I would shoot for no more than 8". I have 1.5 pvc buried 6" and in someplaces less and have had no problems with frozen lines. The deeper they are the more you will have to dig when the soil pulls the joints apart in our summers. I would have plenty of slip fixes on hand.

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