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love_the_yard

Valve Box is a Mess - What Do I Do? (pictures)

Below are pictures of my valve box. My irrigation system was installed about ten years ago. The system is actually working fine right now, including the valves, but after learning how to replace sprinkler heads, relocate sprinkler heads, etc., I got inspired to make sure *everything* is good with my system. As you can see the inside of my valve box is a mess. What should I do? Should I leave well-enough alone until something fails? Or should I try to fix this mess? The whole box, including the box lid, is located below natural ground level. Should I carefully dig out the dirt from inside the box? Can I get shocked or electricuted if I touch an exposed wire? I don't want to die doing this. The wires appear very brittle and the wire casings are so dried out they have segmented. Should the box be raised and if so, is there any way to that? Or is the box level relative to ground dictated by the valve and piping located within? I have three zones (and thus, I think three valves). What do you think?

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Thanks!

Carol

Comments (33)

  • ronalawn82
    17 years ago

    It does not need attention...yet! When that was installed, they dug a hole and connected everything up. The valve box was then put down to protect the whole works and for convenient access. These systems operate on 24 volts BUT CHECK! The stuff in the valve box is energized only during the time when the zone is programmed to to be ON. The valwe box is usually sunk to ground level to keep it out of sight and out of the way of mower blades. A good thing to check is that there is enough clearance inside the box between the cover and the highest 'thing' inside the box. A mower running over the cover can cause it to flex downward and break something inside.
    By all means clean out the junk carefully; you can use the opportunity to identify the components, check on the wiring condition etc. My own thought is "If it is working well, practise to fix it". The advice is free; you are under no obligation to follow it. Have a good time, whatever you decide. You know that you will always get help here.

    Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL) thanked ronalawn82
  • all_wet
    17 years ago

    Carol,
    Not to worry. You'll be replacing those Toro Flo Pro valves soon enough. You see, Toro in it's infinite wisdom, has stopped making the Flo Pro valve, AND stopped making the parts for it as well. So soon enough one of your valves will fail and you'll have to cut it out in order to replace it with another brand valve. While you are replacing the one valve that failed, you may as well replace the others while you are in there. You can sort out the wiring and the valve box elevation then as well. Whatever you do, dont try to remove the wire from the "Quick link" solenoids on your existing valves before you are ready to replace the entire valve. You will end up replacing those valves quicker than you had anticipated.

    All Wet
    Texas Licensed Irrigator #1897 since 1984

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks to both of you for the info! A couple more questions"

    -These valves have been going for ten years so far, how much more do you think I will get?

    -after I clean the box out carefully, should I cover the valves and all the wire with heavy duty plastic to keep down the moisture on the wires?

    -what brand and model would you recommend for replacement valves when the time comes?

    -should I replace the solenoids at the same time as the valves? (or will I be forced to)?

    Thanks!
    Carol

  • all_wet
    17 years ago

    Carol,
    We start seeing valves fail after 8 or so years, but your mileage may vary. Don't worry about plastic ect. When you replace the valves, you'll buy waterproof wire connectors to attach the new solenoids to the old wire. I like Rain Bird's DV 100 series valves as well as the Hardie 2400 series valves which will come with new solenoids. You won't find these valves at the big box stores. You'll have to buy them from a professional irrigation supplier.

    All Wet
    Texas Licensed Irrigator #1897 since 1984

  • sanzen36
    16 years ago

    valves are tricky. if its working......dont do anything. trust me.

  • fxdgrnd
    14 years ago

    Hi, I have a 6 zone rainbird DV-100 valve system. 3 of the zones do not work, i went thru the same step by step troubleshooting procedure and now realize that the three solenoids for zones 4,5,6 are bad.

    Can you tell me how I replace them? do I shut the main water suppply off to the house and hand turn of use a crescent wrench to unscrew the solenoids? ..please help...

  • lehua49
    14 years ago

    Hi fxd,

    Yes. Shut the main water supply off then disconnect the wire to the solenoid and mark where to reattach the new one. Next twist off the old one(should be be able to do this by hand). Screw on the new one and attach the wires as before. Use waterproof screw connectors with the gel inside to resist moisture to connect the solenoid wires and you should be good to go. You should put in a shut-off ball-valve at the beginning of your irrigation mainline so you do not have to shut off your entire house to do irrigation repairs. JMHO. Aloha

  • fxdgrnd
    14 years ago

    WOW ! that was a fast response. Thank you very much. I live in phx, az so I'll wait till the 108 degree temp cools down this evening.

    Thx again

    Larry

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Just an update: it is two years later and the valves are still working without any attention/adjustment/work! (Amazing what you can sometimes get away with by doing nothing!)

    Carol (original poster)

  • lehua49
    14 years ago

    Hi Carol,

    I am amazed that you have done nothing and are still checking up on the irrigation forum two years later. This forum has some interesting stuff doesn't it. Of course I am partial to the Tomato, Citrus, Compost and plumeria forums too. Good to read you are still around Garden Web. Aloha.

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Haha! No, I didn't follow up on my own volition. Rather, whenever someone posts a reply to my original post I get an email. So when these new emails hit, I had to visit the forum to see what people were saying about my valve box over two years later!

  • lehua49
    14 years ago

    LTY,

    Good Answer. Is that why forums frown upon hijacking very old threads? I am glad you tuned in. Aloha

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Just another update: it is almost five years since the original post and those same valves are still working! I still have done absolutely nothing to them. Crazy lucky.

    Carol (original poster)

  • lehua49
    12 years ago

    LTY,

    Did you actually do nothing at all or did you clean out the boxes and did nothing about the valves? Aloha

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I actually did absolutely nothing at all. Nothing whatsoever. I didn't clean out the valve box. It still looks just like it did in the photos above. I've been unbelievably good at pressing my luck. :)

    Carol

  • lehua49
    12 years ago

    LTY,

    Good luck for another ten years or more. Good promo for Toro. JMHO Aloha

  • trkpoker
    12 years ago

    Those Toro Pro Flow valves are excellent. Someone posted before that the parts are not made anymore. This is incorrect. I purchased the parts recently so when they eventually give you issues you will be able to get the parts.

    Good luck,
    Tom

  • ed tee
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    to LTY's point...my original system has been going for thirteen years now, and i am on this forum after posing the question on google: "do i need to fill my solenoid/valve box with dirt?"

    my contractor filled it with dirt, then when i had a problem years ago, i emptied out the dirt, didn't replace it, then rodents ate away at the wires! now that i am back in the box (problem with one of my zones), i am wondering how many people fill their boxes with dirt or keep it "clean".

  • bstephans
    last year
    last modified: last year

    I came across this thread and thought I would comment. I had a Toro system installed in 1996 when I built my home. So, those Toro valves are 26 years old and I have not yet had to replace them. I did have to replace one diaphragm years ago because it was cracked. I have noticed the valves are weeping a little water and am currently trying to figure out how much (doing an overnight test with no other water running like water softener, etc.) .Even if they are weeping a few gallons a day, I'm hesitant to replace them all to save a little water. Does anyone have other thoughts? PS., I live in the Chicago area so my sprinkler system runs a couple of times a week mid-June through late September.

  • bstephans
    last year

    One last comment here -- what I might do if the valves are leaking a bit is just replace all the rubber diaphrams ...... prob should just rip out the valves and do new but if I can find new diaphrams for those old flo pro valves, might just go that route.

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    last year

    I don't have any advice, but I hope you determine that they are only weeping a small amount and can live with it. I replaced the diaphragms on all of my Toro valves last year. I purchased a box of six Toro jar top valve diaphragms on eBay. They are running like champs!


    Good luck!

  • bstephans
    last year

    Hi Carol -- thanks for the reply! Funny, we think alike. I'm doing the leak test tonight and I DID find replacement diaphragms for these old model 284 toro valves. Got them off of sprinkler warehouse. Going to replace all the diaphrams even if the leak test comes back OK. Some of those diaphragms are 26 years old so can't hurt to replace them. If I could ask, what toro jar top valves did you purchase? the model? I've heard that the "53708" toro valve is a replacement for these old model 284's. If I have to, I wonder if I can just replace the tops without replumbing the entire valve in?

  • bstephans
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Wait -- you said you just purchased the diaghrams ... I misread. If you ever need more, I called toro and they said these diaphragms will fit. https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/toro-flo-pro-replacement-valve-diaphragm-89-9861 . Do they look like the ones you got from ebay?

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    I purchased Toro 53804 Irrigation Jar-Top-Valve Diaphragm. Here's are images of the package (grabbed from the eBay listing when I made the purchase). There are two images in the album:

    Toro 53804 Irrigation Jar-Top-Valve Diaphragm

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    These are the videos I watched, not in any particular order, to do the job. I also always try to read all of the comments below each video. (There is as much value there as in the videos, themselves - especially in the "Top" comments, if you don't have time to read them all.)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHkmox7LKrs

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF7ImL82Sp4

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2ZDx311TAE

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pM-BrUzJ2Y

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb5ccM1iiHY

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-SzmZZ2VUk

  • bstephans
    last year

    Thank you, Carol Do you know rhe model number of your valves?

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    last year

    The valve model is a Toro Flo-Pro.

  • bstephans
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Thanks, Carol. Well, the result of my overnight valve leaking test are in! Not too bad. Bottom line: If I extrapolate the results from last night to a full day, those valves are leaking just under 5 gallons in a 24 hour period. Given my current water/sewer rates, about 4 cents a day. I'm still going to replace all the diaphragms though since they are so old. More to prevent a huge failure vs this weeping issue I have. For anyone who stumbles across this string (thank you, Carol, for starting it!). Here is my information:

    Toro Flo Pro Valve: Model #284-16-04

    Replacement Diaphragm Part Number: 89-9861

    Replacement Solenoid Part Number: 89-0114

    As of this writing, 8/3/22, both replacement part #s are available on Sprinklerwarehouse.com

    If I ever replace those valves, I was told by Toro that the Jar Top valve part number 53708 is the current replacement. I checked and it is available on Amazon. If I don't have to replace those valves, I'm not going to. I'm a DIYer and that job, although doable, would be a pain.

  • Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
    Original Author
    last year

    Good luck with your project! The videos were the key, for me. Hopefully the diaphragms will be all you need.


    The actual model number printed on my Toro Flo Pro valve is 280-06-14.


    Photos of my valves (7 images in album):


    Toro Flo-Pro 280-06-14 Irrigation Valve


  • bstephans
    last year

    Thanks for those pictures, Carol! I'll post some of mine when I do that project. Your valves look in good shape. Do you have a valve box over them? If not, you might want to put one in. You don't have the weather we do, but, it would keep the rain off of them. Thanks for the good luck -- I think these new diaphrams will be just the ticket. If it DOES work, I might just buy a bunch more of those diaphragms and solenoids and just put them on the shelf. Who knows how much longer they are going to make them.

  • bstephans
    last year

    Nice! Very clean job.