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biglumber_gw

Size/Type of PVC

biglumber
17 years ago

I am new to the forum with many questions.

I am looking into an irrigation system that I will be installing myself. I have roughly 38,000 sq feet I want to cover with an irrigation system. Some zones will be low/no water areas that I still want covered. I may need to go 300 ft on some runs. Is there pipe recommendations from you experienced users?.

I can re-design to get some of the runs shorter from the valves but I am still 200 to 300 feet from the well no matter what configuration I use.

I have 10 gpm pump on our domestic well and I have measured 40 to 50 psi consistent over a 30 minute test period.

Am I dreaming or will this work? I definately will not be using spray heads and I figured 35ft between heads of either rotor or impact type.

Need advice.

Thanks in advance

Comments (7)

  • mikie_gw
    17 years ago

    ye might want to spend some time on Jess Strykers pages.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Irrigation - Toot Or Reel

  • biglumber
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Spend some time is right.
    Thanks

  • biglumber
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Spent my time. Great information. I like the guys candor.
    Appreciate the help.
    Everything is purchased... may the trenching begin.
    2600' of 1 inch pvc, 40 heads and 20 stations.

    Peace

  • mchristensen
    17 years ago

    I didn't respond to this post before because it was dated at the end of May. I am new to Garden Web as well.

    You stated that you had a 10gpm domestic well pump. I believe you will NOT be able to operate your irrigation system with this pump. [ going by the limited information provided ] I know you SHOULD NOT!

    Per your recent post ( Aug 4th ) it appears you are installing 2 heads per valve station. Have you completely redesigned and reconsidered your system design since you "spent your time" ? If you are still considering sprinkler heads with a 35' throw I think you are headed for trouble.

    [ "Everything is purchased"... ]... does this include a new well pump? If not, it should. Just a note here, do not install a 'sprinkler booster pump' ( downstream of the well pump ) expecting to increase the flow ( gpm ).

    I do not have your well pumps' performance curves in front of me, but 10gpm is inadeguate ( in my opinion ).
    The pump may be able to exceed 10gpm but as the flow increases the pressure decreases. And the pump ( by itself ) does not determine nor increase the flow. Most domestic water supply pumps will be chosen with the highest expected flow rate ( design point ) somewhat out to the right of the curve. In your case this may be where you get the 40 psig ( psi gauge ) during your "test" . In turf irrigation sprinkler systems it is common to have one valve station opening at the same time the previous valve station is closing ( valve change-over ). You must have a pump and motor ( and piping ) that can handle this momentary increase in flow so as not to overload the motor, cavitate the pump or both. Programming the controller to allow one valve station to close prior to the next valve station opening can be done however this increases the water window and creates pump operation considerations.

    If the irrigation system is designed with a maximum demand of 10 gpm, you may need a 5 to 6.5 hour ( or more ) water window to get though all 20 valve stations. This water window ( or the actual watering time ) would require that NO other water demand is put on the well pump ( no showers, no toilet flushes, etc. ). This is assuming that there is enough pressure available to operate the heads you are planing to install.

    I'm getting long here - got to get back to work.

    boosterpumptech

  • mrpike
    17 years ago

    Take all that PVC back, and get 1" 80 lb roll pipe for the laterals. You will definetly thank me.... Use 120 lb or better for main lines.

    If you back your spacing off to 28-30 ft and use 2 GPM nozzles, you will get 4 heads per zone.
    Remember to account for the different size of nozzles when you only swing a 1/4 turn, drop down to a 1.5. If you are swinging 360 bump up to a 3 or 3.5. Make sure to account for this in your design.

    One thing that DIY's don't normally think of, is multiple valve boxes. Running a pressurized main line and wire around the back of the house, or out tward a large area is far cheaper and a better design, than running multiple lateral zone lines. Most times, I won't run more than lateral lines in the same area. If I need to lay 3 side by side, I run a main and wire to a secondary valve box.

  • biglumber
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    I did finish the system in 2007. Pump fried 1/3 of the way through the install.
    Things learned. Get a good pump then size your system with how many stations and heads per station. Where have I heard that before.
    I still think it was a difficult install due to size and length of runs. I was able to place 4 valve boxes at central areas to eliminate laterals.
    Final stats. 2300 feet of pipe 24 stations. 4 valve boxes. 11 stations have 2 heads at 6 gpm each 7 stations have 4 heads at 3 gpm each. 6 stations are terminated in a garden hose connection for flexibility of watering the garden, tree nursery and soaker lines.
    I used hunter pgp heads and controller. Flow at the vacuum breaker is 14 gallons per minute at 55 psi. I replaced the original pump with a 1.5 horse pump. All lines were buried 9 inches deep and were hand dug.
    System works great and I will not be doing that again.

    Peace

  • ronalawn82
    15 years ago

    biglumber, I admire your 'stick-to-it-iveness'. You have pointed me in the direction of a New Year resolution.
    Thanks.

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