Thinking two or three zones should be sufficient at this point. The old galvanized supply I'd like to tap into is only 1/2". Is that going to be a problem?

Current plan will run from the supply with shut-off through a small manifold feeding two or three valves with laterals out to the boxes with a 1/2" stub in each box for the drip system.

Sound reasonable?

sd,

First step is determine your flow rate and pressure. If you need help with that let us know.
Second step is to select system to deliver water. There are many methods of drip system to choose from with varying costs. Can do what you have written as a trial and error method. It works, but a more educated guess with preliminary info helps eliminate a few error steps. GL JMHO Aloha

Thanks lehua13, I wasn't getting much action on the forum earlier in the week so I spent a few days researching and designing and jumped right in. For some background, I'm building raised beds in the front yard, re-purposing cinder-blocks that need to be removed from another part of the property.

New 3/4" supply with shut-off. I left it pretty long and added a disconnect for future construction plans
{{gwi:330144}}

Manifold/Valve assembly. I've got one valve feeding potted plants on the future deck, the second feeding (2) 4 x 16 boxes and the third feeding (2) 8 x 6 and (1) 6 x 22 raised bed box.
{{gwi:330145}}

{{gwi:330146}}

Multiple 1/2" risers coming off the 3/4" supply into each box depending on size.

{{gwi:330148}}

{{gwi:330149}}

Not sure what types of emmitters we'll use at this point, but need to get the infrastructure down before moving forward with weed barrier and base material. How'd I do?:)

Don't know if there is any backflow rpevention upstream of what is pictured, or maybe it is separate from your potable water supply. If not you will definitely want to add it. Even if you ignore the fact that it is code pretty much everywhere you can make yourself and your family very sick if any of the standing water from the irrigation pipes gets sucked back into your drinking water

sd,

Looks like you have a good idea how systems get installed. GJ.
1. I second the last comment about the backflow, he is talking e coli which is found in soils, serious stuff. Minor suggestions to think about:
2. Think about putting lateral lines deeper because you will hit the shallow ones when you roto-till to mix in your amendments start growing again next year
3.Making sure all you glue joint are solid and glued tight.
4. The soil look like clayey and will tend to compact so needs some organics and some material to make the clay drain better.
The system looks very good and good layout good luck. Show us some pictures(worth 1K words) when it is all planted out. Aloha

Mahalo, thank you both for your comments. I went with the anti-siphon valves with flow control, which I believe address any back flow concerns.

Can I pressure test this bad boy before burying the pipe?

I plan to cover the entire yard in weedbarrier, followed by some road base and DG. Just not sure whether to build the boxes immediately following the weedbarrier or after the DG.

Pictures for sure,

Mark

sd,

Yup, but cap the risers first and see if the leaks appear. Good Idea. Which affords the best drainage path for the irrigation and root growth below the boxes. aloha