Hi Shriba,

Have you located a multi-stationed battery powered controller/timer yet? This is the first order of business and will dictate the rest. Aloha.

Thanks so much for responding. I haven't found one in any store yet, but I saw a Nelson 4 station online, Dig has a couple; they're battery operated with solenoid, so I'm thinking the battery powers the solenoids? And, it looks like I'd have to get real valves, not just use a 4-port manifold. They're also a bit expensive, to try out - maybe I should just get an electrician to wire me up for a normal wired timer. If I do that, what would be the order of parts from the bib? I'd really like to keep it simple. Thanks again for helping!

Hi again Shriba,

Below is a website that tells you everything. I can fine tune whatever questions you may have after viewing the how-to tutorials.

http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/dripguide.htm

The battery powers the solenoid which opens the valve. I haven't seen multiple stationed battery operated controllers but they may be out there. There maybe solar powered ones but would cost more. I have used the single valve battery ones but they are $50 each. The batteries are supposed to last two year but it probably depends on the frequency of turning on-off of the solenoid. Mine have lasted about a year.

A good idea if you are using your hose-bib is to start with a y-fitting or flow-splitter with shut-off valves for each branch included with the fitting. This enable you to use your hose-bib as intended and the irrigation system as well. Also buy a pressure gauge($20) from the hardware store that fits on your hose-bib. Knowing the pressure and flow will help you set up your system. Aloha.

Aloha to you! The y-fitting is a great idea - and thank you for the tutorials. I'll check them out tonight and let you know if I have any questions, I probably will... If you're a dad, Happy Father's Day!

Hi Lehuia,

OK, this is going to take some studying! Now I'm sure there'll be questions, but probably tomorrow... have a great day! Maybe I'll be able to do something better and longer lasting from the start.

OK, I'm starting out with a simple, manual set up. I'm using a brass 4-port manifold, available anywhere, and getting the hose lines for 4 ports set up. You can turn each valve on and off, so I'll time each port separately using a digital kitchen timer that can go up to 9 hours. A pain maybe, but easier than watering!

Then I'm going to use the anti-syphon valves with solenoids with a multi-station battery operated timer. They're pricy, but not bad. The batteries seem to last a year or so, so it looks like a good alternative to hooking up a power line to the area. It's the hooking it up to the water source with riser/manifold parts, and of course the digging, that'll take some time, so I'll let you know how it goes when I get there.

THANK YOU so much for your help. Your questions guided me in the right direction, and I'm on my way.

: )

Shriba,

Here is some more questions as you move along with your installation.
1. What is your system pressure? Check hose bib pressure by pressure gauge from store specifically for this purpose($15). It also can help you adjust pressure in your house and protect your appliances.
2. What is your flow rate from the hose bib? If you run all four lines at the same time your flow rate is divided by four. Your irrigation design(number of heads) is based on 80% of your flow rate. Fill a 5-gallon bucket and time how long it takes. calculate Gallons per hour(gph) or minute(gpm).
3. How many irrigation heads do you have in each zone and what are their respective flow rates per your given(hose bib) pressure. If running all heads together, add all your head flow rate at your given pressure and they need to be less than 80% of your hose bib total flow rate. Other wise it is trial and error as you go which works as well.
4. What are the kitchen timers for if you have the battery controlled anti-siphon valves in line with your manual manifold shut-off valves? How would those timers work with your system? Leave the manual zone valves open and charged to the anti-siphon battery operated valves. The manual shut-off is only for repairing emergency breaks in the irrigation lines. The splitter was only to allow you to use your hose bib to hook up and use a hose. A tee fitting would work just as well with a threaded adapter off of the Tee.

Hope this wasn't too much information. Aloha

Hi,

Sorry! I've been laying out my tubing, and figuring out 1/2" tubes also come in 1/2" ID sizes. Back & forth to the store for different sized adaptors ...

I have a 25 psi regulator on the water source set-up. I'll also get a pressure gauge, you're right, it would be good to know the pressure to the house anyway.

I never thought about the flow rate ... I'll measure it all in a bucket before I start actually watering - jeez! Sort of important - thank you. :)

I have 4 - 1/2" hoses, with no more than 40' or so of each. They will each have varying lengths of 1/4" hose running off them, no more than 10-12'. I have several 1 GPH heads along each hose, most at least 18" or so. Only one 1/2" hose station, the one for the shaded bed where the valves are located, will have heads running directly off of it, but only 8 or so; it's not a long line.

So, just to be clear - I add the # of GPH's, and they need to be under 80% of hose bib total ... I've got some calculating to do! I'll be running each station for a different length of time, for a different # of days (vines vs. succulents vs. shade, etc). I have 153 plants so far, so I've already exceeded that, right? I'll have to water on different days.

I'm not setting up the anti-syphon valve system, including attaching my hose to a separate valve, until I have the irrigation hoses all laid out and working, and the watering timed right, just to be safe. The current manual set-up is cheap enough, although not very sturdy, and my kitchen timer goes up to 9 hours. I don't even have my shaded bed planted yet; I'll wait for the permanent valve set-up (so I know what I have to hide). When I do get it set up, then I'll add the multi-station timer to work with the solenoid/anti-syphon valves, and the kitchen timer won't be used any more. It'll work for this manual system for now, so when 1 station is done being watered, I can turn off that valve, and then the next valve can be shut off when that's done and so on - that is if they're all being watered at the same time, which I don't think I can do with the pressure issue.

OK, I'm off to finish the hoses and do some math - I always liked a good word problem!

Thank you!

Shriba,

Your are on the right track. Let us know what the numbers turn out to be (source flow, pressure, zone gph, etc). After you are done with the set up we can help with a water audit or a "water-balance" approach(more math). Aloha.