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glenn_russell_gw

Shouldn't do rotor and spray head on same zone... but....

glenn_russell
12 years ago

Hi guys-

Longtime GW memeber, but new to this forum. I usually hang out at the Fruits & Orchards forum.

I had an irrigation system put in about 2 years ago. After one contractor left be high and dry, I had another come in and finish the job. Therefore, the system is a mixture of Rainbird and Toro components. In general, it works well, and I'm happy with it.

This year, we paved the driveway. I had intentionally put in the sprinkler system before paving the driveway, for a number of reasons. But, that order sorta caused this problem.

When we paved the driveway, we wound up having to move the driveway back by about 10 feet. Previously, the zone in question serviced two areas: One larger squarish section, and one rectangular section. Now that we've moved that driveway back, that rectangular section has become quite narrow... Perhaps only 6 feet across. So, I've still got the got the squarish section with the 4 rainbird rotors, but the rectangular section seems too narrow now to do with the two rotors that are there. The real problem is that they're spraying the house.

I know conventional wisdom says that you shouldn't put rotors and spray heads on the same zone... I suspect that's because you'd be overwatering the spray area? If I don't care so much about overwatering a given smaller area, (and would prefer that over constantly wetting the house), would it really be that bad? There's no sort of restrictor that one could use to limit the flow to the spayer, is there?

Thanks in advance,

-Glenn

Comments (11)

  • mike1059
    12 years ago

    The best thing would be to convert the whole station to spray heads, it does mean a bit more work but is not that hard to do. If the square area is partly shaded you can switch to sprays for the rectangle and turn the time down without stressing the bigger area. If it's in full sun the smaller area will probably turn to mud to keep the square green.

  • lehua49
    12 years ago

    gr,

    I concur with Mike's suggestion. The combination of rotors and spray heads can be markedly different amounts of water applied over your areas. Spray heads have more control as well. JMHO Aloha

  • glenn_russell
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Oh, I just realized that I had replies here... I thought I had told GW to email me on the replies, but they never came. Anyway, thanks Mike1059 & lehua13.

    Anyway, the larger squarish area is 25x20ish. Do you think I could do an area that large with just 4 spray heads? All the rotors are currently in the corners of the squares. I should probably use the spray heads that shoot 90 degrees, right? This would mean I'd have 6 sprays on one zone. All sound OK?

    Thanks,
    -Glenn

  • mike1059
    12 years ago

    For the proper coverage you need to add more spray heads. Since the zone was designed for rotors you have the volume and pressure for the additional heads. The best pattern would be three heads down each side of the 25' length and three down the middle of that length using 10' or 12' nozzels.

  • glenn_russell
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Hi Mike-
    Ok, so basically I'd be replacing 6 rotors with 9 spray heads. I do have quite few zones with 6 rotors, but at most, I've only ever had 5 spray heads on a zone... but perhaps that's more to do with the shape of my yard? Anyway, you're confident that I can replace 6 rotors with 9 spray heads on that one zone? After replacing my well pump, I believe it's putting out 15 GPM. Thanks again guys,
    -Glenn

  • mike1059
    12 years ago

    just checked the flow rate of the rain bird 12' mpr nozzels and at 30 psi the zone will only use roughly 10 to 12 gpm. I would recomend using the rain bird 1804prs spray head to compensate for over pressure on the zone so you don't get any misting.

  • glenn_russell
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Thank you so much Mike for all your help! I now know what I need to do. All the best,
    -Glenn

  • mike1059
    12 years ago

    Good luck and let us know how it works out.

  • glenn_russell
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Will do! Now that I know what needs to be done, I just need to get up the ambition to do it! I was a bit more excited about it when I was hoping I could just replace a rotor with a head. (Even though I knew in my heart it was probably a no-no) The reason I'm now dreading it (a little) is because it will mean digging up much of that zone. This because there are 3 lines that run in parallel in that area (one for that zone, two more to get to other zones). So, I need to dig up most of that length so I know which of the 3 to tap. I will also need to extend the pipe a bit to get to the middle of the other side. So, I'm going to make 100% sure I can't work with the existing rotors. I'm sure I will get to this, but probably not this week. More likely into the fall. But, never the less, thank you very much for the help. Best Regards,
    -Glenn

  • mike1059
    12 years ago

    there is a good chance the existing rotors are on flexible funny pipe. You can dig down around each one to find the correct pipe by finding the funny pipe connection. A less than ideal way of doing it is to tee into the funny pipe for the new heads.

  • glenn_russell
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Right, I can find the right pipe at the rotors no problem. But, to add a new head, in a new location, I'm going to have to dig up a good bit of that zone because there are 3 lines together. So, I'll have to start from an existing head, and follow that pipe to the new location.

    I didn't know you could make a T in the funny pipe. You don't get reduced flow if you do that? Either way, I'd be digging a trench to the new location, so I'd probably just dig it up, and put in a regular tap.

    Thanks Mike,
    -Glenn