Hi Geoff,

In regards to the foot valve and filtration, yes, I would suggest the use of a filter, why? Because small bits of algae, sand and other debris over time will build up in the valve diaphragm. The sprinkler heads can pass a small amount of debris fine (they have filters under the nozzles) it is the valves you should be most worried about. For your application, the use of a disc filter would be most appropriate. Disc filters use a series of screen discs that the water is forced through the amount of filtration is measured in mesh. The recommended mesh for a irrigation system is 100 mesh. Most disc filters need to be cleaned on a annual or bi-annual basis by unscrewing the filter top and hosing it off well. Disc filters are not as easy to come by as their cousin the screen filter. However a trip to a local irrigation supply house, like Ewing, should produce some nice results. Oh, a regular irrigation valve should NOT be used on a system running off lake water. You need a "Scrubber valve" which incorporates a very heavy duty diaphragm and stainless steel hardware (like molded stainless bonnet studs for easy service) The model is suggest using is the 100-PEB from Rain Bird. Once again, not going to find it at home cheapo, go to a irrigation supply house.

About the sprinkler heads. I would suggest going with the same brand of sprinkler heads as long as they are not orbit or toro. Hunter makes a wonderful rotor as does Rain Bird. I will assume you have Hunter PGP rotors (they are very common) and they work great, some of the guys have complained they stop rotating as you mentioned, but it's luck of the draw. Because of the rotating issue, many have switched to the Rain Bird 5000. I haven't tried the 5000 but Rain Bird makes excellent products so it couldn't be half bad. Both the 5000 and PGP come with a nozzle tree and adjustment key. You can match the numbers on your old nozzle with the new when changing it out. And again, go to the irrigation supply house.

Moneypenny:

Any irrigation system running from a lake should incorporate disc filtration and scrubber valves. These will pay for them selves over time and will give you peace of mind. The pop-up rotors are personal taste but I like the PGP's just fine. With a filtration and care you will be good to go. Don't opt for the cheapest stuff out there, you get what you pay for and I can say this from experience. Cheap brands include: Orbit and Toro. Don't go to the big box stores like home depot, they won't carry the products you need, it's the professionals choice and why not support the local business?

Links to products mentioned in this tutorial and other helpful links:

Arkal-Amiad filtration:

Mfrs. of manual disc filters.
322 Rolling Hill Road
Mooresville, NC 28117-9920
http://www.arkal-filters.com/pro_manual1.html

Rain Bird Corp:

Mfrs. of high quality irrigation components.
Rain Bird Corporation
1000 West Sierra Madre Ave.
Azusa, CA 91702
http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/products/valves/PEB_PESBseries.htm

Irrigation tutorials/help:

Jess Stryker, professional irrigation system designer with 30+ years of experience.
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/

I do not endorse any of these manufacturers or people. I simply know good products.

WOW Jess,

Thanks a million for the great information. If you don't mind I have a few follow up questions based on your recommendations and since I am new at this, although handy at many things, I still need some basic information.

The scrubber valves: From my understanding about the system in place when I bought the house, is that the former owner used the pond water previously. That is, until neighbors complained about a smell that probably was related to the septic system in place at the time. The former owner then switched to well water and from there, switched again to city water. Since then we have tied into the local sewer system so the smell of the pond water would should not be an issue. This leads to two questions: One--assuming the previous owner used the pond water before, should I believe that the valves that were installed were scrubber valves? If they weren't, and they were used without a problem should I continue to use them unless or until they fail? How can I determine if they are scrubber valves? Is this a task ( replacing the valves with scrubber valves) that I can undertake as a homeowner? I know you don't know my level of ability but I was able to install an abatement water meter and can assemble PVC parts without a problem.

My other question about the disc filters: where do they get installed? Is it an inline type filter that goes in the intake of the shallow well pump? or after it or somewhere else?

Thank you again for your wonderful advice and help.. if there is a reference source for homeowners to read regarding the care and feeding of a home irrigation system please let me know ...

Geoff

Hi Geoff,

In regards to your valves:
One should not assume that they are scrubber valves. There are so many hacks and contractors out there simply installing improper junk because it is cheap and they want to bid low. If you give me the make and model of the valves, I can more than likely identify if they are scrubber valves. I would suggest use of a scrubber valve due to their durability. Plus the valves available today are much better than valves sold 20 or even 10 years ago. Installing new valves is not a big challenge, there are countless tutorial videos and if you have basic PVC skills you should be able to install them just fine. The tape measure is your best friend. I would advise the use of a primer, like weld-on P70 and a good glue like weld-on 711. Pick these up at a supply house. Keep in mind that glue goes bad after about 2 years so you might consider tossing that old can under the workbench.

The disc filter:
The disc filter is just another source of assurance that your water is extra clean. Generally a disc filter is installed in a valve box AFTER the pump outlet. The disc filter can be placed at any angle, so if you install it in a valve box make sure it can be accessed easily and cleanly. I would suggest using a 12" valve box and then lining the bottom with pea gravel. NDS makes a nice valve box. Your foot valve should have a strainer on it that will prevent large sticks where the disc filter will filter out algae.

Keep in mind the disc filters and valves are marked with a water flow direction and will not work if they are installed backwards. As you probably know from installing that water meter.

Your system should be %90 care free except for the occasional head rotation adjustment, timer setting or cleaning the disc filter. You will need to winterize your system in the fall to prevent your pipe from cracking in a freeze. There is some info on irrigation winterization and other tips here:
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/winter.htm#cold

Your quite welcome and I am glad to help.

hi Jess,

I took pictures of the valves to see if you can identify them but I don't see a means of uploading the pictures to this forum... is there another way of getting the pictures to you? Also, considering the previous owner used the pond for his water supply, do you feel it would be okay to try the pond water without replacing the valves first? I know it could get clogged and then have to be replaced but it would buy me some time until I had to replace the valves. Thanks

Geoff

Hi Geoff,

You can shoot me an email with the pictures attached at joejess123@gmail.com.

Sure you can try the pond water with those valves but they would probably need more maintenance than a scrubber valves. I suggest using the scrubber valves because it is the correct and professional thing to do. And the code in your city might require them.