There is an option I overlooked - to drive another point and draw from the two. If this is viable, how far apart should the points be, and will the pump handle it?

'Here in my sandy soil they say to put them 8 to 10 feet apart but main thing is to keep the pipe between them level .. center tap is a good idea but not 100% needed. Well guy told me if i keep the center pipe level i can put them 100 feet apart if i really wanted but the pipe friction goes up so ideally closeer together is better for flow

Weedy, did you develop the well after you installed it? Often the fine particles around the well point start to clog the point fairly quickly at first. Force some water down the pipe for 30 seconds or so, then run the pump for a while, repeat until the water runs clear after the pump restarts. Goal is to leave just coarse sand and gravel around the point. This can take quite a while particularly if the top of the well pipe isn't readily accessible. I installed a T valve initiall that could be quickly openend and closed at the top. Flow rate doubled after a couple hours of development.

I pumped with a pitcher pump until the water came clear. Also forced garden hose water down to flush the point. I also had a tee for flushing as I did this quite often. Everything was working great until one day, while running a lawn sprinkler, the well took a dump. No amount of flushing has helped, although there is still the usual 6 feet of water standing in the pipe. It's a mystery.

If you can back flush the well, what about the Pump?

Any chance you developed an air leak somewhere on the suction side? Shallow wells are extremely sensitive to leaks. I just fixed on recently that wreaked havoc with my flow and pressure.

coho: Until the problem began, Water being pumped was clear as a bell. However, I did backflush the pump and it was clear.

SteveL: Knowing that an air leak was possible, I inserted a 3/4" CPVC drop pipe (perfectly sealed) into the well. Soon as the pump sucked the drop pipe dry, pressure would fall until the well recovered enough for another burst. I could hear the drop pipe being sucked dry like a soda straw at the bottom of an almost empty glass.

Actually, the well had worked fine for several weeks after installation. Then after running it for six hours one day is when the problem began. I've come to the conclusion that something caved in down there to somewhat interfere with flow. So I'm now back to the pitcher pump and pumping out lots of silty water. If it clears up, I'll hook up the jet pump.

Thanks everyone for the responses.

I have a 5 yr old 1 1/4", 40ft deep well. I am having problem getting any volume of water from it. The water draw is less than 10ft. Installed a new 1 hp pump, no help. I am thinking that the point is plugged. I plan on doing a acid flush. When I dig up the well I am thinking of extending the stand pipe above the grade to make it easier to maintain. Winter temps may get to (-10). I plan to put a layer of foam at the level where the pipe Tee's off to feed the pump and protect the stand pipe above grade from freezing with a foam sleeve

Any suggestions about my problem and the idea of extending the stand pipe above grade. In the last 5 years the well has never frozen in the winter with the top of the well only 2ft below grade. If I extend the well head above ground will that in any way reduce the water volume to the pump?

I would like to know when I should stop driving my pipe deeper ( 1 1/4")......should I feel a soft spot when driving the pipe ???? Will I hear a difference in sound of driving the pipe when I hit water ?