Hi Tom,

Talk to your local irrigation or garden store or garden section of the big box stores. You can get good advice and info and you can see the latest gizmos. I would bury 1/2" pvc to where you need to change to your micro sprinklers system for peace of mind and long term zero maintenance. They have adapters to change between system types. JMHO Aloha

Thanks, I guess this was a stupid question based on the response....So, I guess I'll run a rigid 1/2" PVC line with risers and use multi-outlet emitters for 1/4" tubing. Does this sound better?

Tom

Tom,

There are no stupid questions. Only trying to understand what someone is saying and getting sufficient information from that someone who may not know they need to provide that info. See what I mean.

I was saying that the hose section should be the 1/2" pvc buried pipe instead. Then an adapter that takes the pvc pipe end to 1/2" poly that goes into your garden, then 1/4" tubing can come off that to your plants and stake your micro-sprinklers where you need them for proper coverage.

Do you know your flow rate and pressure of the water source and compare it to the your system demand? JMHO Aloha

Thanks Lehua,

I appreciate your help. I was expecting to hear the "cons" of using a garden hose, pressure blowout, high maintenance, or....? I can't find any information on it so it obviously won't work. I just hate poly-tubing, I'd rather go ahead and use rigid PVC instead, and now that I see there are multi-outlet 1/4" emitters for 1/2" risers it just seems that would be the way top go to minimize maintenance.

I have not measured the head pressure yet and done the flow rate, I'm in the early planning phase since it's too hot here now to do this unless I work early in the morning. We have two planting seasons here and I'll be focusing on planting the garden in September, and hand-watering for now...thought I'd install the system in December, when it's much cooler.

Tom

Tom,

Yes, to not use garden hose as a permanent conduit. Any screw on fittings, tape the threads with teflon tape. Keep us up dated with your progress. Aloha

Will do lehua, thanks. In review of my response above:

...I guess this was a stupid question based on the response

That statement was not directed at you or your response, what I meant by it was the lack of response from anyone, indicating it was probably a dumb idea.

Thanks again, I'll post an update later in the year.

Tom

I'd suggest calling www.dripirrigation.com and asking to talk to one of their technicians.

I've found them to be very helpful and they often suggest a cheaper solution than the one I had in mind. (I don't work for them.)

I'm back. I want to use an EZflow 1.5 gallon fertigation tank with a 9V battery operated hunter valve hooked to 1/2" rigid PVC pipe (approximately 105'), with 1/2" risers attached to retro-fit multi-outlet emitters and 1/4" tubing. I have approximately 70 buckets to irrigate, usually about 20 of which are tomatoes so they will need more water. I have 54 PSI at the hose bib and my flow rate is 5 gallons a minute. Can I do all this on one line? And, how long would it take to give the tomatoes one gallon of water?

Here's my basic layout.

Tom

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Tom,

What is your average emitter flow rate and and head loss. This translates to each emitter will take a portion of your 5 gpm flow rate total and each emitter will rob your system of some its pressure. For example if you use 10 gph emitters that equates to using 0.17 gpm. You only have 80% of the flow available( 4 gpm) so that allows you have 23 emitters on your system per zone. To water 70 plants, you need 3 zones. Time to irrigate every 3rd day with a hundred gallons. 23 emitters @ 0.17 gpm per emitter equals 4 gpm per zone. Divide 100 gallons needed for plans by 4 gpm. It would take 25 minutes per zone or 1 hour and 15 minutes for all three zones. This only an example and not what you actually would do or actually how long it takes. Increase emitter delivery rate decreases time.

Pressure loss is also an important limiting factor in designing zone sizes. It may override the flow rate in designing the system if the pressure is low enough to start with. 56 psi is a good level to have and about average for systems. If each emitter loses about 0.5 psi then your system is can only support 90 emitters per zone (56 psi x 0.8 efficiency)/0.5 psi~90 emitters.

How much total water does your 70 plants need when mature per week?

Hope this helps. Others please check my logic and math. Aloha

Thanks Lehua, the tomatoes need the most water, about a gallon a day, the only other water-hog is okra and my garden is so small I've quit growing it in favor of other veggies we like more. So, most everything else needs only 1/4 to 1/2 gallon a day and I was hoping to use 1 gallon and 2 gallon emitters, that's why I thought I might be able to get away with just one line. I'm fairly good with math but I profess I have not done any research in this area and much of what you stated is currently over my head. Can you suggest a website or two to get me up to speed so I'll comprehend your suggestions?

Tom

I can help you with the math if you like but it is not necessary. Tell me the emitter rate per time. I assume you mean two gallon per hour emitters(0.033 gpm). You could use 4 gpm/ 0.033gpm equals 120 emitters. It would take you a 1/2 hour to water the tomatoes and okra. So you use smaller rate emitters to match the other plants. If you use only the same size emitter for all pots you would over water the less water water needy plants. The other option is to use more than one zone with differing durations one zone. The emitters rating is usually for 35 psi which has been pressure regulated from 50 psi. Set your system up and you can always adapt to problems that occur. Trial and error is the best way to learn. You don't need to be very accurate in this set up. You have the general needs of the plants with enough flow and pressure. go for it?

Thanks Lehua,

The retrofit multi-outlet emitters that go on the 1/2" risers have places to attach 6 x 1/4" tubing and each has a little knob to adjust the flow rates individually from 1 to 6 gallons per hour. I was hoping to run only one line and set the flow rate higher for the tomatoes and lower for the rest. You must have been reading my mind because I was hoping to give the tomatoes 1 gallon over 30 minutes so I'd set the rate on it to 2 GPH, and 1 GPH on the other stuff and run the system for 30 minutes each day.

Tom

You've probably moved beyond your original question, but I don't know any reason you couldn't use garden hose instead of the 1/2 inch poly tubing for your lines if you want to.

As I see it, the garden hose is more costly and once punctured for the 1/4 inch tubing, will not be usable elsewhere as a garden hose. Garden hose doesn't seem to have the lifespan of poly tubing, either. The hose is more flexible and the connections to the 1/4 inch tubing will come loose with a garden hose sooner than with poly.

On the plus side, it would be much easier to put the connectors into a garden hose (I use an electric drill to make starter holes in poly), and you can pick up garden hose almost anywhere. Garden hose already has the ends on it so you don't need to get additional connectors.

I have to run hose about 150 feet to where I have a drip line on some bushes and use garden hose to run the distance as it is easy to pick up and put away in the winter to prevent damage (hayburners use the 150 feet in winter). The drip line in the bushes has black poly and stays year round.

Thanks beeone, I am well beyond the hose, already purchased most of what I'll need. I HATE poly-tubing so I'm using rigid (white) 1/2" PCV pipe with these.

Tom

Tom,

Your design is only theoretical. There are many variable that make reality different. Keep a close eye on what is happening over time to your plants and the surrounding soil. Soil type, weather, plant maturity all affect the amount of water needed. I believe your good to go with your system. Have fun. Post some photos while your are installing as well as upon completion. I always have my dog somewhere in the picture or may be Flat Stanley would do. Aloha

Thanks Lehua,

I'll post pictures, thought I might start today but it's raining here...can't wait to get going.

Tom