IP,

See comment from the Operator's Manual fro S800 series:

To Set The Arc
The rotor is pre-set from the factory at 90°.
The Super 800 rotor has a fixed LEFT stop. To find the left stop position, rotate
the nozzle turret clockwise (to the right) until it stops, then rotate the nozzle turret
all the way back to the left.
To increase the arc, insert the key into the arc adjustment slot, indicated by an
arrow in the center of the turret. Hold the turret in place while turning the tool
clockwise. Keep turning until the arrow points to the desired arc. The arrow will
point to the adjustable right stop. See Figure 6.
When the rotor is set at 360°, it will continuously rotate in a clockwise direction.
To decrease the arc, insert the key into the arc adjustment slot. Hold the turret in
place while turning the tool counter clockwise. Keep turning until the arrow points
to the desired arc. The arrow will point to the adjustable right stop.
To adjust the arc while the rotor is running, turn the turret gently in the direction
that it is spraying. Once the left stop has been located, follow the directions above
to increase or decrease the arc.
To line up the left stop with landscape features which define the left side of the
irrigated arc, simply turn the pop up housing or the shrub base and point the left
stop where the sprinkler should start spraying. You may also pull the pop up riser
up with the key and rotate the LOWER part of the riser until the left stop is at the
desired left stop position. DO NOT rotate the TOP part of the riser.

It reads you need to make the adjustment with the Toro key. Did you use the key to turn the arrow indicator on the top.

If you did that and it still didn't work, the try my plan B, my old standby remedy....Duct Tape. Wrap the damn thing up with duct tape and don't leave any finger prints. JMHO Aloha

i found those instructions and followed them, but thank you for posting. the Toro key is nothing more than a flathead screw driver. Based on inspecting mechanics of the head and looking at the diagrams and drawing of the toro key, i see nothing that is engages differently than a flathead key.

I am curious about the 'memory arc' to prevent vandalism--I have been unable to find any information regarding it and have wondered if there is something i am missing in that regard.

I liked your suggestion for duct tape, however found that putting it around the top of the head, even a single layer, was preventing the head from collapsing fully back into the bottom housing/ground, as the clearance is minute. Additionally without turning the entire head into a gob of duct tape I think the water would have been liable to spray out the top edge of the tape. HOWEVER, i liked your tape idea and thus have tried this:
a small piece of tape put in behind the red nozzle, over the water-source. Then a piece of tape over the back of the nozzle, and then the top screw as fully depressed to prevent the nozzle from being blown out in case the pressure was lots higher due to the pieces of tape blocking the water. I suspect I am going to see a squirting, but much lower flow event when the sprinklers run tomorrow morning. Though, the water may be able to push past the first piece of duct tape around it's edges, be prevented from going through the red nozzle by the second piece (on it), and then may squirt around it's edges, which could possibly be an even higher-velocity/diameter squirt than was i was dealing with, just at a lower flow-rate.

thanks for any additional help. I might consider finding a good substance or object to completely fill the cavity with the nozzle taken out, and maybe use a slightly longer screw to completely hold it in place?

hmm

IP,

The key looked like it had a notched side that would fit only a Toro notched slot but you are probably correct in that you may use a key as wide as the thinnest lowest slot. Many adjusting keys are like that. Many good ideas come from throwing out an initial bizarre funny alternative. How about removing the existing nozzle and put a glob of epoxy glue with several small wire extending out the nozzle hole to spread the spray out or a fine wire mesh in the throat to aerate the water fore going out the nozzle like in a reduced volume faucet. Any type of constriction might work. Pressure and velocity have to be reduced together. Leave no trace evidence though. Aloha

Lehua13,

I need to see how my rigging impacts it before I take it a step further. I've tried to be as low-invasive as I can, simply making something I could remove when I move out of here, or if the lawn service investigates, can fix on their own without billing me for a damaged head.

the epoxy idea with a wire is a good one--I'll get an indication when it next runs tomorrow morning if there is any hope to dealing with the pressure when it is turned on--it is obviously very high and I'll know with this tape method (esentially putting a non-porous block/flap over two areas the water flows) if it is less than desireable, if i should pursue anything more regarding jury-rigged flow reductions. the principle i'm using now is like when you put your hand over a hose on full blast. As the hand closes down over it, it starts to spray at 90 degrees like crazy to the hose-outlet--but if you push hard enough, you could 'stop' the hose with your hand, if my childhood memories are correct--however that was dependent upon your strength, the water pressure, and the 'seal' with one's hand. I'll see if the pressure is to hard, if the screw helps to mitigate the force of driving out the blocked nozzle, and if the seal itself is good enough to keep from having too much water sneak past the first flap of duct tape.

i like your continual mention of 'leave no trace' and such :P hehe. I'm not terribly worried--the sprinkler is immediately in front of my area and i've called them about it--any issues will be traced to me, its just a matter of doing what i can that is non-damaging to the head.

in addition to spreading brown rust in the early summer on my rose bush, it is soaking a large deck area uncessarily, which is to the management's detriment as it will rot all that much quicker--it already is wet much of the year (oregon here), it doesn't need to be wet nearly every morning through the summer too. At present it is probably wet or damp 80% of the time which is dumb unless they like repairing and replacing decks more frequently.

IP,

Sounds like your a rare sane common sense kind of person. Maybe too much pipe. If it was me, I would paintball the damn thing till it stopped working. Then I would be fined and loving it. Aloha

lehua,

thanks for the compliment and hilarious suggestion.
i must say that saturday morning only a small portion of the deck was wet, a step that goes down to the yard--while i did not witness it in operation, i suspect i have severely limited the toro800's previously uncontrolled 360soaking (including our deck window 10 foot off the ground on the 2nd floor!)... i am thinking it probably puts out a really solid mist, of which i could mitigate by now putting the bottom of a 20oz cut-in-half plastic pop bottle over the head... as i have done on the small misters located around the yard.. all in the name of keeping the brown rust spot down on the rose bush and keeping tomatoes from getting water on them every morning!

i suspect that thing would have kept crankin out the water in a bigger and bigger mess as the head got cracked if you were shooting it w/ a paintball gun from close enough range. on some smaller sub-heads on a smaller system they have seutp, which just mist, i removed a head once and forgot to put it back on--i had a gusher 10 foot tall going up next to the deck and coming down onto it with a loud noise... oops!