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| I have a ton of seeds WS right now and am hoping for some decent germination rates. I also just got a very demanding job that I was not expecting, so my time is going to be somewhat limited when they're ready to plant out. I need to make new beds, since we have none now. But I'm thinking that I'll only be able to get 1/2 of the bed space finished, compared to my original plans.
My question is on spacing - can I space my perennials closer together for their first year, so I can keep more of them, then move them to new beds next spring or this fall? I'm thinking of things like delphinium, malva, lavatera, foxglove, bergamot monarda, anise hyssop, balloon flower. For example, could I space my delphinium at 15" instead of 24", if they were replanted at 24" for their second summer? Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I always space my plants closer than the suggested placement. I always have. I have good soil and I do divide them when they get bigger though. How about making a garden bed over some grass this season. Search here for instructions. The basic idea is... The grass decomposes and the paper keeps it from growing. This is my new method. I dig the edge out a bit but that is all. It is quick and easy. Karen |
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| Good idea, but I've read that you can't really plant perennials in those beds until they've aged a bit. Plus, I have no idea where to get that much compost. I've ordered 5 cu yds, but it would only cover my originally planned beds to 3" deep. And that would leave nothing for my existing beds. |
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- Posted by floodthelast 5 N. OH (My Page) on Sat, Mar 26, 11 at 23:26
| I recommend the lasagna gardening method. It's similar but you place layers of different organic matter dry and green and they compost down over time. It doesn't take as much time because the layers are thin. It's a much cheaper way to make this type of bed because you can use things like chopped leave, pine needles and grass clippings instead of topsoil. |
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| Many folks put their 1st year perennials in what they call a nursery bed. Then locate them to their permanent homes when they get bigger. Also here is a link to a thread on how to make an easy garden bed in about 2 hours. ~StLGirl |
Here is a link that might be useful: Two hour new garden bed
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| ~StLGirl that was the post I was thinking of. |
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| These beds take more work but only a limited amount of compost and mulch. Dig a row 8-12 inches deep. Line with corrugated cardboard. Wet the cardboard. Replace the soil upside down with the sod facing down. Continue throughout the bed. Add compost and mulch. Can plant immediately. The cardboard and sod will fertilize the soil. |
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| Plants in my holding beds are placed quite close together as they are not going to be in the bed when they are full sized. |
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| mnwsgal - Does the cardboard just serve as an additional organic source in the method you described, or does it help smother the grass? That might work for us - I'm looking at a 6'x60' bed, so we'd sure be sore after we got it in! I'll look into the nursery/holding bed idea too. Thanks for those who suggested that. |
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| I am not sure about the cardboard, I expect it helps with the breakdown of the grass and know it attracts worms. Years ago when I was younger, in my 50s, I did an area that was approx. 20'X 20' and it took me several days. (I am a slow worker.) Two years ago I did an area 25' X 5' which I am going to widen a bit this spring. I often use cardboard in my compost bin as well as find it hastens the breakdown of other ingredients. Think the trapped air in the corrigated cardboard helps as well as increased worm activity. When I mention I am sore or very tired my DH says, "This is something you choose to do, right?" Can't argue with that! |
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