13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Um, I see no-one has come up with a definitive answer yet...so here is my two-pennorth.
I routinely propagate phlox paniculata by taking root cuttings - small 1inch bits of root which I lay on the potting mix, cover with more jix and fine grit and leave (outside)over winter. By early spring, there are signs of sprouting in most of the cuttings...so I suggest you leave your pots alone, put them somewhere where they will be undisturbed - maybe adding a protective cover if you feel they are at risk from digging pests and hope that the roots have retained some regenerative power. Whatever, there is no point in worrying about this...and certainly not worth repotting or planting out. Just keep your fingers crossed - life is very tenacious and hopefully, there will be signs of growth next year.
Mine too, Flora - total slime...but hey, got 34 willows, 14 roses, 30+ ash seedlings (in wild optimism), 24 garlic cloves and 3 astrantias in the ground today. Got back from Norfolk and now exhausted...but will have to drag myself round to clients to discuss some welcome work tomorrow (bloody landscaping though).
Almost everything is dormant now here in SC Kansas. My Diablo Ninebark and Summer Wine Ninebarks are turning a dark shade of red and will probably stay that way until the end of December. It's supposed to be 34 degrees Monday and then 57 next Friday. In January and February we will finally get down to the teens, but then back up into the 50's by March. That's KS for you.
There is a little possibility that your daffs may be blind next spring as they really need a much earlier planting to get their roots going....but no worry, I have bought cheap (and late) daffs before now - they will come good the following year.
Don't use a spade - get a decent long-handled bulb planter. I did 3000 of the buggers last year and it would have been a nightmare without a decent bulb-planter (although it was still a bit of a 'mare, just not such an extreme one).
Yes, have also attempted the 'plant them where they land' method...frankly annoying as they land in clumps...or too far apart...and anyway, when planted, even in rows, they look perfectly fine once they are up, as long as the amounts are generous.
Ramped down to 750 this year
Camp: I've planted bulbs quite late in the season and they've always bloomed just fine. As long as the ground can be worked, the bulbs can be planted. Referring to larger bulbs that are planted deeply (e.g. daffodils, tulips, hyacinths) - in my area, it's going to be a while before the ground freezes to that depth, if it even does (some years it doesn't). I would imagine the problem would be with the smaller bulbs planted close to the surface (e.g. crocus).
A very pretty little tree, Catkin. You might be interested in this thread over on the Trees Forum.
Here is a link that might be useful: Larch discussion
there is a new salix nursery in vt and they list a huge #. I esp love Salix Alba Sericea, a far superior silver leaf alternative to Eleagnus or weeping pears. We let our ~20 yr.old sericea get to above our house in the driveway, where it grows right up against the house's non-crawlspace addition. We started coppicing it 4 yrs ago: we get our tree guy (he needs a cherry picker for this) to cut the leader way down to where we want it to sprout and we have him chain saw the leader at an oblique angle such that you could only see the cut if you were able to stand BEHIND the tree. The thing never misses a beat; it sprouts vigorously and produces a fast canopy (of thin branches) about ~10' below where it had been . We do this every 2 yrs or so. We could cut it WAAAY back if we wanted because salix sprout new growth all over their trunk. The one drag about it is that it sucks up all the moisture at its base, but we are still able to grow our normal packed bed style very close to it.
We have another alba sericea that we keep coppiced down to ~ 6-8' because it is in a mixed perennials/shrubs border and we don't want shade there. Ditto the salix britsensis which has flaming coral new growth.
We also just got a YELLOW leaf salix! and are crossing our fingers to see PINK pussywillows on another new one. We had a Scarlet Curls that never lived up to its name and we finally, after 15 yrs, tossed it. It also had started getting these teeny shiny green black beetles that ate holes all over its leaves. The world of willows is GIGUNdous!
mindy
I really didn't wish to get into any kind of argument with anyone. I was only pointing out that the terms of use of Garden Web were being infringed ...." the Terms of Service and applicable copyright, trademark and other laws govern your use of such content. You may not post to the GardenWeb Network, copy, reproduce, retransmit, distribute, publish, commercially exploit or otherwise transfer any material subject to any Rights." The OP was posting photos which people clearly assumed were her own when they were not. In fact if Getty images spotted it there could be unpleasant repercussions. They trawl the web constantly for material they own and threaten people who use it without permission with legal action. It has happened to an acquaintance of mine who innocently used an image found via a Google image search. I don't believe that it is mean spirited to point that out.
As for Chelsea, I agree with every word Campanula wrote.
If this were an argument it would be about how one deals with other contributors to GW.
The mean-spirited part was not pointing out facts, it was the part of the summarization which included "but it is disingenuous and rather underhanded to put these posts here ---".
If I saw any evidence that the set of pictures was actually intended to deceive, I would likely have agreed.
Very nice, nhbabs.
One of the things about perennial gardening which strikes me most of all is the gardening potential for large, maybe rural, properties versus small urban ones.
Obviously, the two present some different challenges as well as some different opportunities.
nabs, those shots are simply fabulous. Personally I am partial to neutral color schemes with a spot of color here and there more so than a riot of color and flowers, thats why the O. grasses and silver plants are so appealing to me. Winter is a good time for that along the roadsides here, to me its prettier with various shades of white, grays, buff, rust and dark browns in the grass lands as opposed to a undefined sea of green. I like fall & winter best because all the various green colors separate and its definitely the only time of the year lawns are appealing with that open area of light cream color contrasting with evergreen plants.
Here is a blog I ran across the other night. I am 99% certain this garden would appeal to me more in fall and winter than spring or summer. I sorely wish I had the amount of space you have, thank you for posting those pictures. I love the berries and the soft colors. Heather is definitely a plant I would grow if I could, that is one of the best understated, neutral plants on the planet in my book, I'm more than a tad jealous of you luckiest of of dogs who can grow it.
Last winter I placed an order with Bluestone that I picked up at the nursery and learned that plants purchased at the nursery are discounted from the catalog price. So if you know what you want and are within driving distance to Bluestone it might be worth the trip. Their greenhouses are always neat and orderly and the staff is friendly and helpful. They do a great job.
Its a bad sign that in Texas Vitex agnus-castus is called 'Texas Lilac'. The sort of sends up a few red flags...
Here is an old thread about peony's.
Here is a link that might be useful: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/peony/msg0315295822899.html?5
keep in mind.. zone info.. is basically .. the lowest cold temp ...
that does not really address how long its cold.. as when i spoke of cold dormancy ...
one trick... come spring .... drive around.. and see if you see lilacs around ... if you do.. one might suspect.. they will work ...
on GW ... you can come back to your own post ... to thk peeps ... no need for private email ... but you are welcome ...
you might also join a local garden club ... not only to learn what can and cant be grown ... but you might get a lot of free plants .... from new garden friends ....
ken
campanula-thanks for the advice. i have a small aesthetically not very pleasing cold frame. original thought was to replace with concrete blocks and sash. but so many windows. . . . . . .and pix of handsome sash window greenhouses on the internet. . . .sigh. but, yes the gh would have to be large enough to move around in COMFORTABLY.
If you are handy, then a half glazed GH is good, if not better than a complete glassed in one. You could have a 3 - 3.5 feet high block wall all round (at a nice height for a bench) and have the sash windows sitting on top, then roof it with corrugated polycarbonate. If you have some hard standing, you can possibly lay the blocks on top without requiring foundations (I use those concrete 18inx9inx4in blocks). For an 8x10 feet GH, the glazed area only needs to be around 10square metres of wall...and it looks as though there are probably enough windows to do this.Rather than freestanding, you could do something using an exterior wall, maybe. I do think it is an opportunity worth investigating.
mmm, silybum (childish snicker) was my first thought.
Another common name is Milk thistle, S. marianum. Great for your liver,pretty, but quite an invasive as so many thistles are.