13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Wayside gardens used to be really great. But they were bought by Park Seed and that was the end of customer service and quality for Wayside. They ship plants haphazardly and tiny plants in big quarts size pots and charge for quart size root balls. You can't get any one from customer service on the phone nor do they answer emails and the order takers can't help you solve a problem.
Read the many negative reviews Wayside has now over in Garden watchdog. Out of 805 reviews, they have 372 negative, 125 neutral and 308 positive. I'd bet most of those positives are pretty old. What really cracks me up is that Wayside always answers every negative review with a "we couldn't find your order from this information, so please contact us with your order number, and we'll make this right." When they posted that on my two negative reviews, I pointed out that I had included my order number and email in the review because I had read their previous responses, so why were they still having trouble contacting me.
Way, way on the other end of the spectrum, Santa Rosa, Annies Annuals, and Lazy S'S Farm, Plant Delight all provide great customer service, knowledgeable people if you call with questions, super well packed plants, and wide variety of plants that you won't find anywhere else. And Geraniaceae.com is the most incredible specialty nursery for hardy geraniums, erodiums and pelargonium.
Calistoga, you are correct. The grade of sand also relates to what you've said though. I can't find a literature citation for this, but I'd bet the finer the particles of sand, the higher the proportion required. Until you reach the point that you might as well just put down a layer of several inches of the sand. Which is still how golf courses are made in certain areas. That is why the current commercial practice for permanent structural enhancement has become to use very large particle additives, like pumice, turface, permatill, or the Japanese product called Isolite. (Which was used years ago by Davisson Golf on the National Mall in DC, to manage pedestrian traffic over grass fields. Now no longer imported) Any admixture of those is safe, without worrying about making matters worse. (BUT...my current theory is that in certain rare situations, if misapplied, even those could make matters worse for another reason. I'll get to that one of these days haha. Suffice it to say, it's not common but could happen) I do think they are a good idea for what _I_ am trying to do; and will continue to use them in certain areas.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is roto tilling brings up seeds that have lain long dormant to the surface where they germinate with gusto. It can also break up certain types roots into small sections, each section being able to grow new plants. It usually takes a few tilling sessions prudently followed with either manual or chemical weed eradication to clear the soil of undesirables. People who naturalize large areas such as a prairie or meadow restorations are advised against tilling for this reason. If tilled, its best to wait a season or two until the area is clear of weeds/grasses before planting.
Mexican Heather / Cuphea hyssopifolia is perennial here in 8b & warmer. Annual for you, Rouge. Picture taken this week - note leaves that have fallen as winter approaches - has been blooming since early summer. Attracts pollinators. Good, tough plant that blooms continuously all summer.
The butterfly bush and the caryopteris will be at greatest risk. If you sink the pots in the ground I would suggest in addition to mulching that you cover each plant with a large pot (don't forget to weigh it down with rocks or bricks). For the others, sinking the pots in the ground and heavily mulching should be sufficient. Keeping all the plants in an unheated garage will also work. I routinely overwinter butterfly bushes in my basement emergency exit window well which is similar to your unheated garage. However, the plants will need to be sparingly watered from time to time so you need to check them every 2-3 weeks. Good luck!
Wish to H*** I could get Corydalis to even live in my garden. For some reason, I have never been able to get any of them to survive through even one year. I have tried at least a dozen times in different places and different depths of shade but no luck.
Hellebore, Pulmonaria, Epimedium, Brunnera, Asarum and Begonia grandis go wild But I just can't seem to get corydalis to live.
BingBingBing!!Rouge et al, youse is de WINNAH!! Corydalis lutea it is. In fact, I challenge ANYone in a z.5 garden to show me a true shade tolerant perennial with a longer bloom. Dicentra luxuriant made me pause for a minute, but I still think it loses to old CL. Wow, such a workhorse (a dainty workhorse-- is that an oxymoron or not!). And are we LUCKY or what? that it has a lovely lemon yellow flower and not taxi yellow!
geoforce, you ARE including corydalis LUTEA in your mention of corydalis failures? I have certainly lost the blue ones, but lutea is a whole different thing.
best,
mindy
Just a couple of my faves...
Clematis viticella 'Purpurea Plena Elegans' (she's a beauty, too)!
Filipendula rubra 'Venusta'!
When I began gardening I learned the botanical names because it was the sure fire way to find the plants I wanted.
I find the less time I spend in the garden with the plants the more I have to pick my brain to remember some of their names--trying to remedy this!
I tell you, when (and if) you get into Plant Etymology - the origin of names, you can be fascinated from here til eternity! I actually own a book of this, and some winter i'm going to pour over it. But meanwhile, I have looked up many many many name origins over the years. Some I see over and over: wilsonii, davidii, kirilowii, all named for explorers and collectors.If you're a "history fan", you can't help but get pulled in. There are web sites for it too.
I love reading all of the posts here. What fun!
best,
mindy
I was on the fence until I read Ken's post. I'd say go for it and plant them rather than bring them indoors. I don't like mums and therefore don't grow them but I'd plant things now just on the knowledge that the ground won't freeze yet awhile. The plants likely won't do much other than establish their root systems.
Normally my guideline for fall planting perennials is mid-October but that's just what works for me.
Planting potted mums (especially those without new growth at the base) in fall is typically a recipe for death over the winter, especially as far north as zone 5.
Rather than stick them in the ground now, I'd let a few frosts knock them back and then keep the potted plants dormant in a garage or crawl space that doesn't get much below freezing. In-ground planting in a cold frame is another option.
I have a bunch of small mums (with Minnesota origins) that were planted back in July and which have grown and flowered. I'll have to see how they overwinter, but I think I've improve my odds considerably by allowing them to establish outdoors for nearly a full season.
I can relate. I went overboard with PLANTS and bulbs this year as I was just converting back yard (grass) to garden beds all around the yard. I read about wintersowing and was so excited, I started ordering my seeds in the summer, only to find other seeds I had to have....and order more!
Do you winter sow or direct sow in the spring?
I used to have one dry as a bone spot where I could plant ground cover sedum and it would stay short and grew very slowly. All of my ground has been redone so as to hold reasonable moisture and air. If I want to have spots of low growing sedum and I do. I just pop them out of the ground each spring take a piece off and replant or they will take over. I believe in the last 25 years I've tried just about all of them. Give them good soil and a little miosture they cover the ground with gusto. So I agree with gardenper. You can also use a very low container with holes for drainage put your sedum in there and place it where you wish. Lime zinger is a gorgeous low sedum. Have it in pots and the ground. Seem to have dealt well with miosture but is close to water sucking daylilies.
As long as we keep a westerly wind I believe it's a warm winter (still have frost) but depending on the easterly we may have a cold white winter at times but still very cold.
Our temps are more stable throughout the winter but it may stay minus 5 for days/weeks I believe.
I'll bring them in ;too much hassle.
Floral_uk I have herd people sinking pots in sand too. And covering alpines with glass just to keep dry.
Thank you
'....it may stay minus 5 for days/weeks I believe...' No it won't Mushibu. -5 is rare and never prolonged. I don't know where you are in Wiltshire but in Swindon the coldest month is February and the average MINIMUM temperature is 1.1. (33.98f) The average MAX is 6.8.(44.24) So the range is indeed not huge.
The pot sinking story was Campanula's, not mine.
SunnyBorders~ Do we ever stop learning? lol..... Thank you for your help and the beautiful pictures!
Snow! I'm in MI, so know all about that... Just hope it holds off a bit longer. Your Monkshood looks pretty... even covered in snow!
Aren't those tough blooms!
Mertie
I probably would have agreed w/ you, before, about animals sensing what they should not eat. But I think you are ASSUMING that the animal has a brain. Not always the case. I.e.: My parents had a mini schnauzer who once ate slug bait (iirc) and went into a physical crisis . She would have died had they not rushed her to the vet.
mindy
zackey, did you dodge the bullet on that weird snow event last year then? My brother is a teacher in Canton GA which is close to Atlanta and they got hit with that snow mess last winter, he had to spend the night at the school with some stranded kids but it wasn't as bad as those people stuck in cars for hours on end.
We are at the bottom of the state. About 8 miles from the Florida line. No snow here. We did have a light dusting of snow a few years ago on Christmas eve. Just enough to be in awe and enjoy it. It melted as soon as it hit the ground.