13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Here's a closeup of 'Adrienne' this one can grow 6' but can be cut back to a shorter version. The individual flowers can exceed 2". I've never seen this one for sale anywhere, it may be one of the ones bred at the Horticultural Centre of the Pacific where I bought it many years ago. Doesn't seem to have a problem with mildew and the lower stems still have green leaves.
Annette
well, no WONDER some of you lost it in z.7. It is Zone TEN!!! (Do we even HAVE a zone 10 in North America?)
mindy
Someone needs to talk to these South Africans about naming their plants. What could be more confusing- Mona Lavender-- when it's not a lavender, and then, to make matters worse, the common name is Swedish Ivy!!(does not look a thing like our Swedish Ivy houseplants here! (maybe the Kemper site means that all plectranthus have the common name of Swedish ivy, not just this one [ in which case, my bad.])
mindy
After a brief search, I found a supplier; woolmans.com & they listed this cv. as a hhp, meaning it is a half hardy perennial. Although, that isn't quite exactly the same thing as listing the lowest zone to which it is hardy.
While, a half hardy perennial, generally means it usually isn't extremely cold hardy, just by its very definition.
Typically, they are listed as garden hardy, suitable for outdoor overwintering in the ground, up to a point, in certain colder zones. Or, they are of the florist type, which are generally greenhouse grown, to ensure their survival through the winter in more severely colder climates.
Is it Chocolate Ball Sedum? Most Sedum is good for zone 3 to 9, though some will be "iffy" in zone 3 and will do better in zone 4 and below. If you don't think it is well enough established, be really weather aware and cover it if you are going to get a hard freeze, or mulch really well before winter sets in. I have to agree though, Chocolate Ball (if that's what you have) does look daintier than Angeline. I hope this helps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Chocolate Ball Sedum
Here it is a bit later, shot November 11 when the 'Pink Flamingo' is at its peak of purple. The M. Riverchonni is turning orange, its in its prime in mid August here when its a dusky deep purple and the flamingo is still very upright with deep steel blue rolled leaves.
This post was edited by TexasRanger10 on Mon, Oct 6, 14 at 17:10
I grow them by my pathway because the blossoms are actually a little shy . I like to lean over and search for them. Thay make me smile. They lived through our big drought just did not make an appearance that year. They are under oaks in part shade but I think they will take full English sun. The seed pods are a bit like baskets and a bit like umbrellas part way open. Mine seed themselves and keep on ticking. I have seen them grown in hanging baskets too. OH, they do not stink.
here is a picture I made with them
Great picture .
How do they keep the grass edge from growing into the raised edgers? I have an edge I did with raised edgers and figured is just stay on tip of the grass...but three years later the grass is winning and creeping into the garden. Redoing that area is on my to do list.
I'm a bit confused by my Amsonia plants, i planted them as Amsonia tabernaemontana, and the seedlings have been consistent until the last few years. Now, I suddenly am getting a fair percentage of very narrow leaf plants which are smaller overall, but more florifierous than previously. Don't know if this indicates they were actually not pure species or if it is the natural variation of the species.
Not unhappy as these are much more pleasant garden plants, but really curious.
Are you growing in pots or in the ground?
This is what I do.
I soak the tubers for 12 hours or so to get them a bit plump and hydrated, then plant in a free-draining mix (I incorporate chicken-grit - flint based, not oyster shell), about 1inch deep, in pots then leave out over winter. These little anemones are surprisingly hardy as long as they do not sit in cold wet ground all winter (which is why I asked about pots). This is the perfect time to sow them - I sometimes keep mine in the cold greenhouse and start them early into growth by watering the dried out pots (I keep them on the edge of dessication) in order to force them into earlier growth so as to flower with the ranunculous. The worst time is spring planting - these nearly always fail....so yep, get on it....not too deep and not too wet. I have never bothered with keeping bulbs or tubers in the fridge....
If you like, you can actually sit the tubers on a layer of grit when planting to ensure the roots do not rot off.
If you are planting in the ground, try to cover with a sheet of glass or a cloche to prevent wetting - this is a certain death.
Hello Campanula,
I have already replied to your most helpful post once yesterday, but when I checked this a.m. it had not gone through; I suspect I was not logged in as I thought I was, but at any rate, I tried to reply to you right away.
Many thanks to you and to every person on this network who shares their experience. It's so terrific to get to ask a very specific question and receive a reply almost right away from someone who has actual experience with the plant.
I was planning to plant in the ground. I have 10 bulbs, but after reading your post, maybe I should plant half in pots. When you say that sitting in "cold wet ground all winter" is a problem, it's worrisome because that pretty much describes British Columbia in winter. There will be rain in November, turning to snow, probably in early December, and snow on the ground until March, whereupon more rain will ensue for a couple of months. Not constant of course, but the ground will be wet. The nursery where I bought the bulbs said they were hardy to Zone 3. That would definitely mean cold, wet ground all winter. I live in Zone 5, which is quite a bit more moderate.
The soil around my house is naturally sandy, as it sits on an old creek bed. I was planning to plant some of the bulbs in what I call my "rock garden", but all it is is a very small space in my garden, surrounded by rocks, where I hope to plant a few alpine plants. I live in a relatively remote, tiny village in the mountains and don't know where I could get chicken scratch. But I brought down from the mountains buckets of clean, quite coarse sand, which I used to fill this area, using about 75% sand, the rest being soil and compost. I will certainly soak the bulbs as you've suggested, and lay them on a layer of sand. Some of the other bulbs, I was planning to plant under an old birth tree. What do you think?
The image is of the other ones I have.
So just mix thw old soil into ground cool!
So the ones that will grow now and become more sturdy, will they also die down in winter but cone back from the roots? Or will the plant just stay?
Ive sown a pink mix at about early August. Abd the cosmos in it has flowered already! But that's all. That has flowered in it.
I have a dahlia that hasn't flowered yet! The buds are there! I have thinned out to 2 buds on the whole plant but I think it won't flower now as it's becoming cold! It didn't help the first growth was eaten by catapillas!
Anyway thank you for the help I'll upload site image in moment.
So it's from the conifer to the yellow pole near trunk!
There is a few plants on but the two dahlias will die soon was going to put into pot for now then put in shed.
And thw daylilies will be moved into permit position!
The passiflora was 3ft in April!
"Finger's crossed for successful germination, total lack of damping off, fat healthy plants and even having too many of them."
Amen, campanula! :-)
"Finger's crossed for successful germination, total lack of damping off, fat healthy plants and even having too many of them."
Yep, I agree! Thanks, everyone, for a great discussion!