13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
There is also A. "Inca Ice", hardy in zone 5. It's been trialed at Walter's Gardens (MI I think?) for a number of years and has proven hardy for them.
Did any GW members in zone 5 get "Inca Ice" to survive this past fierce winter planted in the ground?
Visited the garden of the friend who gave me the alstroemerias- his are growing crazy ! He has them in a protected spot - almost shady - in a low, damp spot. Make mine look starved. Those suckers were popping up all over the yard- of course- his yard is complete mondo grass- the whole acre. Gorgeous garden. Mature & lush.
grosspointe,
I don't recall how my G. Rozanne behaved the first year since it's been at least 10 years since I planted the first one. But it is normal for perennials to take at least one season to establish. As long as the plants get plenty of sun (although Rozanne does very well in partial sun), moisture and get good drainage, they should do better and better in later years.
I planted 6 Rozanne. I lost two but it's because their neighbors had crowded them out. The remaining ones are doing very well. I love the sprawling habit and its color that deepens as fall approaches.
I removed the Geranium that I had, that I believed to be 'Rozanne'. I think it was mislabeled as something else, but it certainly looked like everyone's Rozanne. I was just ready to get rid of a lot in the spring and that made it onto my list.
I have only one coreopsis left. I bought 'Sienna Sunset' which is not the bi color you asked about, but is in that later series of cultivars. I'm potting it up to give away. Just have not found an application for it that I'm wild about. It has been hardy though and came back fine after last year's hard winter.
there is an iris forum ... i have never seen many of those peeps here ... but watch zone info .. a lot of the hardcore are in warmer climes ...
never know where you will find the best info
next to yoru name above.. it says NONE ... if you go to your members page.. you can change that to zone and big city ... it will help us to remember.. where you are ... sometimes it matters ...
for me.. ground heave in late winter.. in MI ... would be the issue ...
ken
Here, winter moisture management is the issue. I don't think I've had a single tuberous iris survive planting after the end of August. They just don't have the root system necessary to wick the water away.
Dealing with potential frost heave is easy. Just put a fairly large stone or brick over the rhizome.
Oh, neat linkie, Rouge. How about that s.mandschuriensis? I can see that my NOID is a dead ringer for s.stolonifera . if it was not cruelly confined to a pot, it might well be more of a spreader - I will set it free in the woods.
I have always enjoyed the name - saxifrage, aka rock-breaker. Given the delicacy of mossy saxifrage or the silvery Kabischas, I find the rough tough name amusing.
I had Saxifraga fortunei var. rubrifolia in my previous garden. It doesn't like dry shade. Soil should be humus rich, not too dry and wel draining. Ideal woodland conditions that gardening books always talk about but that you seldom have ... My previous garden wasn't infested with snails so I can't tell you about that. Vine weevils, however, do like Saxifraga fortunei.
this site says e spring or fall, so here i go...!
Here is a link that might be useful: j. holly fern info
Funny, certainly true of some perennials, but there are plenty with short flowering seasons that have other features -- foliage, seedheads -- that extend their interest for a greater part of the year.
At this point I'm interested in very little that isn't native to the tallgrass prairie region where I live, but this is the forum I come to most often. Like Campanula, I'm not going to read anything about hostas, but I find that I've learned a lot about perennial gardening in general even when the specific plants discussed aren't ones I'm going to use (i.e. when to do cleanup, whether to plant in fall, etc.).
I suppose I also have the advantage that, living in the middle of the country, my zone and the ones on either side cover a huge area. I might be more inclined to seek out a regional forum if I lived farther north or south.
I suppose I should be considered a perennial weed on the forum, I often feel that way among all the fancy plants I see but a perennial is a perennial is a.....
Same here woodstea except I am more shortgrass prairie oriented, however there are a lot of native perennials involved with either situation. Maybe you are a weed too but I like that I can meet a few people every now and then with similar interests and goals.
Flowers are rather lower down on my list of interest when I am choosing plants, I am more inclined to choose plants with foliage color or texture based on how they look out of bloom because my space is limited & it gives interest in all seasons, including winter which is always a factor. If I had an acreage it would be different. I also tend to choose plants that have a long bloom time, a second bloom time or those that will bloom opportunistically with rain but which still look good out of bloom which includes several along with lots of grasses which always look good. As a result, I have some short lived perennials, annuals and biennials among the long lived perennials that I let naturalize here which keeps them going year after year. Evergreen or 'Eversilver' often makes a plant desirable to me, no matter the bloom.
Our regional forum is devoted mostly to vegetables. Thats all fine and well but I don't find much to read or post about.
I also picked up a nice looking BoBo today. The others I had seen earlier at various places did not look as nice.
Thanks for the fall photo rouge. The blooms on mine are only partially open.
Looking forward to seeing it in full bloom and changing to fall colors.
It's in pot (ie probably not optimally nourished) and it's fallen over (ie could be a couple of feet tall) and there's no scale in the picture and the height can vary. I'm pretty sure that's what it is. But if someone can suggest something else feel free.
Here is a link that might be useful: Corn Cockle
I have a clump of glads that were here when we moved in 7 years ago. It's next to the house, so does probably get some winter protection. It has returned every year, and it produces seeds and some of them planted them selves in another part of the bed. That small clump blooms and has returned for several years. It might be fun to try your seeds just to see what you get. I know that the seeds that "planted themselves" did not take very long to produce blooming size bulbs. The flowers in the new clump are exactly like the other ones in color and size.
Linda
I had an orange variety (common) years ago that populated a 4 x 4' area in one season! At first, I thought *How pretty!* Dug them out for about 3 years and finally eradicated them or they would have just kept invading. White fleshy roots from you know where. YMMV!
If you have a cool indoor area, potted 'Black and Blue' will overwinter. I've kept a pot in my root cellar and others in my little used and unheated (except by solar gain) front foyer. I just have to periodically check moisture levels so that they don't totally dry out. They also survived but didn't look good in the 60-65 degree kitchen by a bright window.
I use three approaches to overwintering perennials in pots.
1. Place in unheated but insulated garage.
2. Dig a hole in a holding area or the empty vegetable garden and plant to top of pot. Mulch well after ground freezes.
3. Take to cool dark room in basement for winter. Once a month water lightly to keep roots hydrated. This is for tender perennials or those where spring blossoms have already set or where a plant blooms on both new and old wood.
Agree with others, the best idea is to plant them before the ground freezes.
I found that the trailing branches would root . Good plant in Texas. All the artemisias are. I think our soil and arid weather keep some of the bad ones in semi control. Silver mound on the other hand is too finicky. the heat and humidity turns it to nothingness. I am about ready to plant one of the bad ones. I have given it a hillside.
Again, 'Powys Castle' is not a "slow" runner--it doesn't run at all--it's more of a sub shrub, bushing out from a very small, woody footprint. Winter issues can be settled by giving it the best drainage possible.