13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

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dbarron(z7_Arkansas)

Lazy S is a great place...PD has unusual stuff and unusual prices (lol), and not necessarily very large plants.

    Bookmark     September 12, 2014 at 8:58AM
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gringo(z8 VA)

arbo_return.I haven't had the pleasure of ordering from either place..

dbarron. I noticed Jung seed has quite a selection of named Hellebore cv.'s. It's my understanding, you've got to be nearly a pro, to attempt starting those by seeds.

I think, much of what I may be wanting to purchase now, is not available until the spring, but is probably better for fall planting, in my area, in autumn.
Usually having a typically short spring growing season here, with rather mild winters. With the rare exception of this past one, which didn't help matters, of new plantings, as last winter so cold, it was horribly destructive with some plants freezing solid, or heaving nearly entirely. I had never seen such things as foxglove or Penstemon seedlings turn brown & die, so quickly.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 7:40PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Yes, Klehm's is a very fine nursery.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 6:38AM
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gringo(z8 VA)

It should be easily found by search, using the terms 'garden watch dog. + Khlem's'. Then there should be a link on the main page for that vendor, to make a post feedback about your positive experience, if you are registered & logged in.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 7:20PM
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lilsprout

" up the stairs (they do use the stairs) of the hillside "

Lol I couldn't help laughing at this!

    Bookmark     September 13, 2014 at 10:24PM
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emerogork2(5)

Many plants thrive by being chewed up by animals. I believe that butterfly bushes, and maybe forsythia, benefit from being cut down every year. I had butterfly bushes many years back and never pruned them. I think that is why they died out.

I planted more in the same place and learned that they want to be chopped back and I have been successful with them ever since.

Even if deer don't eat these plants, other animals do and it works for me.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 3:04PM
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flowergirl70ks

I'm remembering reading somewhere the time to prune lavender is right after blooming.anyway thats what I've always done and my plants live a long time. As a matter of fact I've lived here 47 years now and I've only planted lavender twice.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 10:33AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Here in the mild winter west my lavender is always cut back after the bloom has been spent. Al

    Bookmark     September 14, 2014 at 11:24AM
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nydepot(6)

Thanks. Just checking. I do find perennials where they say do it in the spring.

    Bookmark     September 13, 2014 at 7:12PM
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dbarron(z7_Arkansas)

Those are typically the heat lovers, like mallows where they're late to break dormancy anyway (the ones recommended to move in spring)...but I think that advise is mainly for northerners where things are less hardy.

    Bookmark     September 13, 2014 at 7:15PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

My weather conditions are different but I've moved perennials by digging them and then packing them side by side in shallow crates or boxes. They won't be growing over winter so roots don't tangle. Much quicker than potting them individually, quicker and easier to move and there's a greater volume of earth to even out the temperature. Then I'd treat as SunnyBorders suggests for pots.

    Bookmark     September 13, 2014 at 5:41AM
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sunnyborders(5b)

Useful suggestion, Floral.

I use pots.
(1) for labelling purposes
(2) weight considerations
(3) because I give most of the plants away
(4) (just me!) I get rid of excess soil that way.
Think it's still reasonable weed-free
(and invasive spring bulb-free) garden
soil, but am always upgrading our soil as I
divide and replant through the growing
season.

They say "a pearl is not had for the asking".

I have to admit, Floral, that there's more (likely yours) and there's less (mine) efficient ways to obtain one.

    Bookmark     September 13, 2014 at 11:21AM
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linlily(z5/6PA)

I hope I don't confuse you, summerstar. Just because the tag did not mention that one or both of your irises is a rebloomer does not mean anything.

German seems to be just another name for a "bearded" iris.

I just did a little on line research for you. BOTH of your irises are Intermediate Bearded Irises meaning that they are shorter then the Tall Bearded Irises. They should top out at about 20 to 22 inches tall. In the spring, they may also bloom a bit earlier than their taller cousins and after the dwarf varieties. I grow all three kinds.

Halston is listed as a rebloomer so you should see it rebloom in the fall if the growing conditions are right. I don't think the weather has much to do with it, only that Halston has the genes to rebloom and has produced enough growth to rebloom.

Strawberry Love is not a reblooming iris.

Hope this is some help to you,
Linda

    Bookmark     September 10, 2014 at 3:27PM
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green_go (Canada, Ontario, z 5a)(5A)

My 'Immortality' iris is blooming now too:

    Bookmark     September 12, 2014 at 8:56PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Agastache foeniculum 'Blue Fortune' tends to be a shortlived perennial at best--4 years is about the limit. How old are yours?

    Bookmark     September 12, 2014 at 6:41AM
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judyhi(6)

They are in their 4th year. Thanks for the information! I like their size and look and smell, and they are my biggest bee attractor. I will look for more; however, do you have suggestions for a similar plant in relation to the previous information? Part to full sun, clayish soil.

    Bookmark     September 12, 2014 at 7:54AM
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terrene(5b MA)

Hi Adidas yes I have collected pods when the seeds were not fully brown and they have browned up during the drying process. But generally it's best not to open the pod while it's drying, so it's hard to tell the condition of the seeds sometimes!

As for your A. exaltata, the purple color is probably normal. Some of my A syriaca seedpods are purplish (pretty). The pods that are lowest on the plant should be most mature. If you notice a fading of the green coloration, I would go ahead and collect a few. Then I dry out between several days and 2 weeks and test them daily by squeezing them gently. They will start to pop open when they're ready.

As for the milkweed beetles, they will nibble on the pods, so when I'm checking the plants I'm not very nice and squish the beetles!

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 9:15PM
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adidas(6/7)

Thanks Terrene! I shall follow your advice and collect a couple of purplish pods. I found that putting a dab of the bug spray I use on myself (all terrain) on the pods seems to keep the beetles away for a day or 2 :)

    Bookmark     September 12, 2014 at 7:07AM
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woodyoak zone 5 Canada(5b)

shadyplace - monarchs go mad over heptacodium here! 2010 was our best monarch year so these are pictures from late September 2010 that I've posted here before...

We are on the migration route for the monarchs. So far, there haven't been many around but I'm hoping the report from southamptonite might mean there will be a good show this year!

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 11:19AM
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arbo_retum(z5 ,WinchstrMA)

we have had 2 heptacodiums for many years, since they were brought back from China by the Arnold Arboretum here in Boston, and first deceminated by them to their members fifteen or 20 yrs ago. I have never seen Monarchs on them. Darn!! Ours have recently begun their annual bloom and they do reliably get their pink calyxes here, which is the only real reason that I grow that tree (shreddy bark is neat too.)

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 11:13PM
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arbo_retum(z5 ,WinchstrMA)

piti, it is so great that you are satisfied this year; a great place to be, for sure! thx for the i.d.s; i am very un-savvy w/ PCs; is that a MAC program--the yellow circles and numbers overlaid over the photos? I don't have a MAC and i have Picassa for a photo program.
Thx much and big congrats. it's the June H. that made me gasp!
mindy

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 12:18AM
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TexasRanger10(7)

Nolina microcarpa-- hardy down to zone 6. I like the way the ends of the leaves curl. Mine is still not full grown but its coming along. I planted several from seed that are smaller. Its a 3ft tall evergreen and has white blooms. So far mine hasn't bloomed yet but its a very easy plant.

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 7:22PM
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sunnyborders(5b)

My experience with our astilbes is much as the above.

Re chinese astilbe:
although I also have these shaded by taller perennials in summer, I do find they tolerate more sun than other astilbe.

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 2:36PM
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

its time to stop fertilizing .... its almost winter ...

and you can run into a lot of trouble.. having perennials and conifers on the same watering system ... they have very different needs ....

you can get IDs on anything.. in the appropriate forum .. including the name that plant forum.. by posting pix of things ...

its near impossible to answer your questions.. w/o really knowing what plants you have .. as i read your facts.. as saying there were more than astilbe

ken

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 3:49PM
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greenhearted(5a IL)

Thanks for this; I just signed up.

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 11:41AM
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franeli(z4 NH)

I've been getting her blog via e-mail for awhile and love it!

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 12:04PM
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rusty_blackhaw(6a)

Yup, forgot to mention Sedum and Veronica as major bee attractors.

If (big if) the Japanese beetle population continues to be depressed, it'll only help the bees rebound, as sprays for JBs tend to be toxic to bees.

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 8:56AM
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greenhearted(5a IL)

I agree with Kevin, I planted calamintha this year just for the bees and wow, it is always loaded with butterflies and bees. It's also a very attractive plant.

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 11:14AM
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karin_mt(Zone 4)

Yes, it sounds too acidic to me. I would probably add some lime or dolomitic lime to bring the pH up.

We have alkaline soil so I use peat moss all the time to bring the pH down and to help with texture. In terms of mixing and wetting, as long as it's all mixed together it's just great. For me it all blends together really nicely to make a fluffy, appealing mixture.

If you want the same effect but without the acid, use coconut coir. You buy it in a small, compressed brick, put it in a big rubbermaid tub, add water and come back the next day, only to be shocked at how much it expands. Then you use it like peat moss. It is also much more sustainable than peat moss since it is a byproduct of coconuts.

Good luck, happy planting!

    Bookmark     September 9, 2014 at 10:36AM
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kineticentity(zone 5a NY)

Thank you all for your help!
I dug out much of the bed, hosing it all as I shoveled it back in while adding a bit of wood ash and a little dish soapy water with a watering can. It looks pretty good but time will tell!
Love the coconut voir idea. Will check that out!
Thanks again and Happy Gardening!

    Bookmark     September 11, 2014 at 7:33AM
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