13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Lots of good advice. But note that 'big box' stores tend to change their plants in stock based on the season, so now you will likely find things that will bloom now or very soon. You will want to get some earlier bloomers as well, so plan to shop again in the spring and again in the early summer, or visit a good independent garden center that may still have some early blooming plants in stock.
Beth z5, northern Michigan

pitimpinai, I just wanted to remark on how lovely your gardens are! Absolutely lovely!
Smokey, congratulations on your retirement. Phlox is my favorite perennial, but I'm not sure how well suited it is to southern climes. (I'm in northern New England and it does well here.) Be sure to post photos when your plants begin to flower. Best of luck!

I also use a lot of different lengths of rebar, with a length of wire wrapped around the rebar leaving two arms with hooked ends to encircle my taller perennials, the whole thing is amazingly hidden in the foliage, as the perennials get taller just slide the wire up. Use a lot of conduit too, for pole beans mainly, stick a cork( if you don't have anything else) in the top, hammer a nail in and then run jute lines and anchor in the dirt.
Annette


I have Heliopsis *summer Sun* the leaves look similar too the ones in your photo, but mine are closer together and the flower head isn't that far above the foliage. The flower on mine is double pedal, 3-4 times more pedals than the one you showed.
Mine also gets 4-5 ft tall but has been blooming for over a month and will continue to do so until I cut it down in the fall. . . I hope yours gets id, Id love to know what it is and if I can grow it, I like the flower. Good luck.

could it be helianthus microcephalus? I've grown this and it does get tall - about 5 feet. The centers on yours look more yellow, but thougt I'd offer this suggestion anyway, just in case....
Dee
Here is a link that might be useful: microcephalus

I have researched these having 2 myself (overwintered them). I needed to repot mine as they did not do well last year. They like humus/manure I found out, and like to be root bound.
If you are ok with the pot they are in then just leave them. If not then just carefully repot without disturbing the roots.
Mine have really taken off with the new soil and are now starting to bloom :)
Love this plant!!!

Well, when i got mine they came in 2 1/2" pots and was instructed to move them into a slightly larger pot , 4". I did so, and they were doing nicely, but it seemed that they will wilt rather quickly, so i moved them up to what is there recent 5"-6" hanging pots. They have blooms, but they do not seem to make any new growth. They are getting 5-6 hours of sun and I only water when they show stress out ( wilt )....so now with the Summer coming to an end, and they will be brought in to a south window here in the northeast, when, and if at all can I expect new growth?. I doubt if they would make them indoors.

Interesting; I wonder how long it maintains its chartreuse foliage? I'm a real sucker for that colour that lights up the shade. There is an Astilbe "Colour Flash " that comes in burgundy and lime varieties that I have been considering. I also love burgundy foliage.



gardengirl-geum tend to be slow starters. Mrs. Bradshaw and Lady Stratheden are available to buy as seeds. From what I've read, though, volunteer seedlings from hybrid versions are pretty rare. They do multiply though and will look best if divided every three to four years. I LOVE the colors you can get in these!
Here is a link that might be useful: Some pretty geums

Not along the path but parallel to it but 4-6' into the bed.. If I remember right, clematises grew on it but now they've moved them to the 'trees' you can see in the pictures I posted in the Clematis Forum. I wonder if maybe they're going to remove the lattice eventually - unless there are still clematises on it (I didn't look vary closely at it....)

felisa, how long have you had your miss manners? My first year with them (last year) they grew from seed and flowered....not a huge display, but flowered nicely for a first year. I transplanted them to their permanent spots late summer and this year they came up and looked so healthy and the flower display was even more lovely than last.
Do you think that maybe they need to establish in one spot for a year or so to be their best? I hope you get to see them at their best. I am very happy with them.

Beautiful!!
My seed-grown, winter sown hardy hibiscus are bursting into bloom at the moment. I spotted them today and am thrilled to see dozens of buds on the plants, ensuring a spectacular show over the course of the next week or two. For accent/contrast, blue balloon flowers and white gaura are blooming in front of them.
Sorry no pics. Lost my Photoshop app a few years ago and photo hosting site not long after that.

kato - yeah, sometimes hibiscuses can 'stick out'. I think I sort of solved that problem by accident :-) I tend to plant things as part of a bigger picture - i.e. I always consider what other plants a particular plant will be partnered with - the individual is always part of a group; the color scheme of the area it will be added to; the relative size of the plant and the companion plants; and all the usual considerations of soil, light and moisture. There are a lot of hibiscuses in the front garden now and they are a key part of the August garden display. They are very showy but they also play well with the other things in bloom at this time of year in the pink/white/blue color ranges. I think hibiscuses tend to 'stick out' when they are grown as a specimen plant and/or are pink ones paired with golds. To pair with golds/orange/rusty red, I think (hope!) the hibiscuses with dark foliage and dark red flowers would work best - I will find out if that works when the 'Midnight Marvel' in my 'hot' bed blooms (soon, I hope!)
I'd love to see pictures of how other people blend in hardy hibiscuses into the garden....

I really put my butterfly bush in the worst spot last fall both in terms of space and sun. Not sure what I was thinking, but I just couldn't stand to look at it there any longer which is why I moved it at probably the worst possible time. I thought about cutting off the buds to help it re-establish, but couldn't bring myself to. It did bloom, but they were very short-lived flowers. Anyway, I'm not concerned about it surviving the winter at this point (those things are tough). If things stay cool and wet from here on out I see no reason to wait until fall to move things around (your rose being the possible exception).

Fingers crossed for you with your butterfly bush. :-)
I find myself ending up sometimes adding something wherever I can when I run out of time, knowing I am going to have to move them.
I was also on the fence about where I was planting tomatoes this year. My only full sun is in the front where everything else that needs full sun has to go. So do I want roses and butterfly bushes or tomatoes? [g]
This year I put in one tomato out front and it outproduced those grown in the back that were in 6-7hrs of sun by enough that I finally decided I need to put more tomato plants out there next year. And since no one has bothered the tomatoes out front this year, I may as well try a few more. So everything has to move around again. :-)

Beautiful photos. No success with any except for one that is totally wonderful for me. Geum boresii or 'King Boris' was introduced here over 20 years ago. All the other wonderful sorts never get to the next year. And its foliage is evergreen. Cannot say if the others are from my experience and would have to look that info. up.

I planted a Mrs. Bradshaw Geum from a nursery this spring. It was very slow-growing, although it did reach 12" tall. It has never bloomed which is hugely disappointing. Is this normal for the first year? It is planted in full sun with good, well-drained soil. Any tips or information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!




I don't have corydalis but several of my other spring blooming plants never bloomed this year including doronicum, Jack Frost brunnera and bergenia. I wonder if the buds were killed off by our particularly cold winter. The foliage on all look healthy and robust enough.
No problem with Corydalis lutea here.
Most of it gets pulled out.
As usual we just leave it in a few out-of-the-way places and that remainder gets pulled out later.
We too had a late spring and C. lutea likes moisture.
Have never seen it not flower.
Am assuming most, if not all, of our yearly C. lutea is from previous years' seeding.