13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Woody, what do feed your clematis and how often, do you top dress with alfalfa pellets. I've never bothered much with that end of it, maybe that's what's wrong with my two wimps. I did throw some fertilizer made for clemies around a couple of years back but it seems to be a job I never get around to doing, I mean to but it never seems to happen.
DH helps me with some of the heavier stuff and I really appreciate his help but gardening is my thing not his. Sooo, if I don't get to it it just doesn't get done.
At our last garden club meeting one of our members gave us a talk and slide show on the clematis in her garden, not an overly big garden but she had, if I remember correctly 127 clematis planted. It was breathtakingly beautiful and some of the things she used to support them were quite unusual to say the least like an old CD rack found at recycle and a pr. of crutches of all things. She had clematis I've never even heard of let alone seen. I think I'm not wrong in saying Clematis are her passion.
Annette
Annette - I usually give the clematises some clematis fertilizer in spring - if I remember! I forgot to this spring and it hasn't seemed to hurt them.... :-) But I figure all that prolific flowering must use up a lot of energy so I will try not to forget to fertilize next spring.
DH likes to garden too - he's largely responsible for the veggies in pots and, because I'm physically disabled, he does the heavier labour like digging big planting holes and pruning tall things. We generally work well together in the garden - although he sometimes misunderstands my instructions and cuts down the wrong thing or does something 'the wrong way' :-) But nothing dire happens... His assistance is vital to the garden here and is greatly appreciated by me!
I know somebody like that clematis person you mention. She has a 10 acre property - and goodness knows how many clematises! She is 'responsible' for getting me into growing more of them. She and her DH are moving to BC this fall, so that clematis lady will have some competition soon... :-)
It's probably due to the fact it's under a tree, the soil is probably too dry, due to the tree taking much of the moisture combined with the fact it's under the drip line (I'm assuming). Brunnera (all of them, not just Jack Frost) prefer moist soil, they perform quite poorly in drier conditions.
If you really want brunnera in this location, I would suggest digging up and re-planting in a spin-out bag or digging a large hole, lining with plastic (with bottom cut out or large holes for drainage), filling with top-quality soil and replanting. Or, you could use moisture-absorbing crystals (e.g. SoilMoist) mixed into a large, freshly amended planting hole to help get the root system well-established and better able to withstand some dryness. I've used these tricks in the past, and they do work, but it is imperative you offer supplemental moisture if the plants are under the drip line.
Do we all have a love/hate relationship with hoses? LOL! What would we do without them, but they really can be a pain.
I have both. We invested in multiple 50' heavy rubber hoses years ago and they have been great. We stretch a couple out permanently during the season through shrubs to where we need them so we don't have to continually drag them around. The others we do have to drag around and put back into place when done. The issue I have with these huge hoses is they do take a lot of space when they're coiled up and they are SO heavy.
I do like the flexable hoses because they are so light they are just tons easier for hand watering and when I'm done I hide them in my potting bench. They shrivel up to nothing. I mentioned in an earlier post that we don't have the greatest of water pressure which is why I probably haven't had any issues with them bursting or failing. Maybe folks who have great water pressure would be best to turn on the spigot halfway to see how it goes. I do find the spray goes quite far even w/o good pressure.
Does anyone have any feedback on the newer models made with latex? I purchased a 100 ft. expandable hose on ebay that claims to be an improved version of older models with metal connectors and a more durable inner hose made of latex. It's not the X-hose pro. The brand isn't specified but for $30, I was willing to risk it for the incredible convenience of a secondary hookup to a faucet in my garage.
So far, with about a dozen uses, I've had no problems with a 50ft Pocket hose which was a gift but needed something longer. (And no, I'm not giving up my "workhorse" hose. I know these lightweight hoses just can't take the abuse but it sure is nice not to lug that beast around for the other side of my property). Just wondered if anyone noticed a difference with the next generation.
Most of the geraniums I grow are species - rarely do I bother with named varieties, especially those which have to be vegetatively propagated (having a tight streak and growing 'em from seed)....and honestly, Tex, there are some stunners which would easily survive the searing southern heat - am thinking now of the mediterranean G.renardii, the New Zealand g.riversleanum....or a number of gorgeous south africans such as G,robustus, G.incana and various naturally arising hybrids (such as the above mentioned Silver Cloak). I know you are generally wedded to natives (isn't the US geranium g.maculatum?... which is essentially a woodlander?) Flora's maderense originates (along with palmatum) in the temperate but frost free zone of the Canary Isles - as does a number of rather brilliant succulents) For me though, I have no such boundaries and will look anywhere for a good plant which survives my negligent care (hence my new-found interest in US plants such as leadworts and species penstemon). Of course, this is ultimately the source of my usual difficulties - a vast curiosity and desire to grow everything.....although in all other aspects of life, I have usually been more able to demonstrate a bit more control and restraint.
Should you ever venture out of native species, SA plants are quite fabulous (have been down that road numerous times) with Namaqualand daisies and Karoo plants to the forefront of every arid gardeners wish-list (not to mention the maquis and guarrigue plants of southern europe). Have not dared to venture too far into s.America as that way disaster (and poverty) lies (those weird southern hemisphere inversions and strange tiny little flora and fauna of Chile, odd Andean root vegetables (have a friend doing that stuff with Oca and mashua etc.).....in Jerry Garcia's immortal words - 'what a long strange trip we are on' .
Sigh, Flora, my camera is also doing that sticking lens (and enraging screen message) thing....and no birthday in sight till October. Ever tried the white maderense? Debating whether to get seeds.
Sorry, Campanula, I meant to reply to this thread sooner, but it has been an exceptionally busy summer! That is too bad about 'Crystal Lake' being a dud. Mine has been growing a lot more than normal in this mild, relatively rainy summer, but it has still been pathetic in both quality and quantity of blooms. You practically need a microscope to see the flowers! It must perform well somehere, otherwise I can't imagine why someone would have wanted to introduce it and put it on the market.
The geraniums that perform best for me so far are:
'Blue Cloud' (probably my favorite overall)
'Rozanne'
'Sirak' (takes a few seasons to establish but spectacular!)
'Orion'
'Brookside'
'Wageningen'
'A.T. Johnson'
'Rebecca Moss'
'Tiny Monster'
Geranium sanguineum variants
Geranium erianthum
Geranium maculatum variants
Geranium phaeum variants
Geranium soboliferum 'Butterfly Kisses'
Most of these have been growing so well this season that I have already had to whack them back to the ground one or more times just to prevent them from overwhelming neighboring perennials!
TexasRanger10, not all hardy geraniums are created equal. You need to research those which will perform well in your own climate. But the genus is vast so it is likely that one or more will thrive.
luckyladyslipper - my multiple 'Black Knight' butterfly bushes survived the horrible winter and all of them came back this year. Assuming they bloom, you're welcome to seeds once fall rolls around. All mine were seed-grown via winter sowing in 2010, which may or may not mean they're tougher than nursery-grown plants.
Christin I think it's one that blooms on old wood, I have never pruned it but it's getting pretty rangy so maybe I'll try cutting one branch back once it's finished flowering. I first saw this hydrangea in the U.B.C. Botanical Garden back in the 80's, now that I think of it perhaps it wasn't given to me, I might have bought a rooted cutting at one of the Mother's Day plant sales they held each year. This is where I bought my first Cardiocrinum, long before they were offered in commerce. I also bought a Dichroa febrifuga here as a rooted cutting, not really hardy for me out in the open garden, after a couple of years I lost it. I'm looking for another one as I think I'd have better luck growing it in my garden room. Alas, I haven't been able to find one locally.
Annette
Hydrangea aspera is only hardy to zone 6. And it blooms on old wood, like most macs. Tends to be a big, rangy shrub to go along with that big, felted foliage :-) The one at the Rhododendron Species Garden here is at least 15' tall!
This is one of my favorite hydrangeas, not only for the foliage effect but because the flower color is nearly iridescent. Unfortunately my current garden is too sunny and too small to accommodate but I had a lovely one at my old garden. Annette, yours will just get better and better.
If you are referring Dryopteris (autumn fern), they are quite hardy. They can be a bit late to emerge, sometimes late May, perhaps early June at the latest, but if they're not up by now, they're goners. I've had numerous clumps for many years, all survived this past whopper of a winter easily and are growing gangbusters, so I'm surprised you lost yours. Was it planted in preferred conditions?
Okay, I dug out the package-I save the packages of seed that I have used up in a big envelope so I can remember names-and the ones I planted at the other house that would get a few seedlings each year were Ruegen. I had fewer plants there due to space, and so they were more heavily grazed (by me) so that may explain the fewer seedlings. I did move them from the flower garden where I had them, but mostly because I wanted to put another low growing plant there, and the soil was pretty much depleted and they seemed to yellow in the alkaline soil. I put something there that I replaced a lot, so I worked with the soil more then. They seemed to stay where they were and didn't really get too much bigger than a foot or two across. The ones I planted here I looked and they do have a name on their package-Summer Sweetness. They had a lot better germination than the Ruegen and maybe more vigor, but the soil is different here. Also it is a different seed purveyor, so that might make a difference, and I might just be a better seed starter now than I was. I just have more plants here, about twelve at first, and I have the Jewells, so I don't snack as much, so maybe that is it. I just had about forty+ plants pop up all around, and if they each get to be about two feet across then that will be too much room devoted to alpines for me, so I've been pulling them out. I do let them reseed around where they are planted, so if they spread there that is okay. I just don't want them in the vegetable beds or in the xeriscape beds or the perennials. I just planned for them to be ground cover between a couple of plum trees maybe about like you are thinking. Just give them the foot or two that they seem to want and get your dh to pick them to make jam and I think you'll continue to be happy with them.
Thanks for that information. I'll definitely be ordering the seed for Ruegen, which is what I think I have. I've been paying more attention to them as I walk around the front garden. They are scattered here and there throughout several beds and borders. Some are in too much shade to produce much fruit, but all are cute, tidy clumps that are not too big. I want to use them as a border in places around the main front bed as well as to help fill in under some shrubs to cover bare ground to discourage weeds. I will sow the seeds on the ground in September and let them germinate in place. I gather they need light to germinate so I'll just drop them on top of the soil and see what happens....
In the reading I've done about them this past week I've read that they are runnerless, but do produce short underground stolons that produce new crowns near the mother plant. They can be easily divided by digging out the offset crowns. In theory then, the clump could get large if it produces a lot of new crowns but that has not been my experience with them, and they are easy to dig up/out if necessary.
For anybody who may be interested in the plants we're talking about, I've linked an article (looks like on a blog) that's a bit old but describes them well and has good pictures.
Here is a link that might be useful: alpine strawberries
Over the years many different types of perennials have been grown in my mailbox bed near my clematis. All did well and were not affected by road salt, though my suburban street is seldom salted. These include penstemon, mums, gaillardia, geum, heuchera, salvia, sedum, and nepeta. There are probably others that I have forgotten. Last winter the snow removal person scalloped my mum so I moved that this spring and added annuals to its spot. Also due to winter kill there are no gaillardia anywhere in any of my beds this year.
The usual recommendation is to plant a perennial that does not have a deep tap root and that has the same watering needs as clematis which like to be moist. In other clematis areas I have polemonium, geranium, delphinium, and columbine with clematis.
TexasRanger - having seen your fantastic dry gardens I think your situation is about as different as it is possible to get from Balliol's. S/he is gardening in a climate with frequent rain and lush plant growth. Gravel soon becomes covered in leaves, dirt,twigs, moss, algae etc. It's a nightmare to maintain. The 80f s/he referred to counts as a heat wave here. There've been warnings on the BBC to take extra care! Today it's 70f where I live with 89% humidity and rain storms. Perfect weather for weeds to flourish....and they do.
However, having seen Balliol's personal situation the weed barrier and gravel might keep things tidy for a couple of years longer.
floral, From what I read, the gravel was already in place. The amount of gravel removal to re-work the area as you proposed is not always doable by all people and sometimes its more sane for people to try to work with what is already in place.
I do not live in a desert climate. Rainfall ranges in my own state vary from 17" to 54" annually depending on where you live. The greatest amount recorded was 84". Summer can be hot & dry but some years are wet & humid, such as this one. Winters are variable as well, some mild, some bitter. I deal with moss, leaves and debris on gravel, its a part of my maintenance. The problem depends on the surrounding foliage, # of trees etc. My lot used to be lush and green but I chose to remove it all down to the bare ground to plant a prairie. My biggest battle is finding plants that will survive patterns of rain + humidity but also stand up well when extended drought patterns set in. The weather here is very inconsistent and challenging since it swings from periods of draught to periods of wet.
The US is a very large country and its impossible for someone living in the UK to make general statements about conditions or garden practices since it varies extremely even within individual states and from one gardener to the next. Just about every climate condition exists here somewhere. By the way, my landscape is not indicative of the urban area where I live. Today it is 86 degrees, we had 3" of rain day before yesterday and it is quite humid & it has been wet all summer. I do a massive amount of weeding because it is rather lush here as well allowing imported plants to invade & grow a bit too well which is why the grasslands are rapidly being eaten up by imported trees and other plants.
This was my conventional landscape before I cleared it. Neat well dug beds & clean crisp borders.
Ugh, they totally defoliated my columbine so I thought I was safe - but now that the columbine has grown back, there is a new crop of baby critters on there, eating away at all the new leaves! I thought sawflies were just a once a year thing so maybe they aren't sawflies. I'll try the alcohol/dishsoap approach.
Every year, it's the same two plants affected the most in my garden...columbines with leafminers and sawfly...and roses with sawfly and leaf cutter bees. I pick off and destroy the sawflies I see but they've already done lots of damage and it looks really unsightly.
I stopped growing nasturtiums because they got chewed by cabbage worms, but not sure if I want to resort to digging up the perennials.
I think you're in the wrong forum... :-)