13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials


Catkin, thanks for taking the time to post this. I'll give it a try with lemon and cedarwood since you had luck with those two and I happen to have them both at home. Appreciate it!
Ryse, I remember reading something like that before about the SSS... But I agree, being covered in sweat AND oil doesn't sound appealing.

catkin - True about the eggs hatching so quickly, but if you dump out the water on a daily basis and replace it, the eggs and larva croak on the ground. They never develop into adults.
Also water hyacinth are not going to filter out bacteria and pathogens from bird poop. Birds poop in the water and disease can be spread from bird to bird this way. It is rare, but it does happen.
A few years ago, about 1/2 of the Greenfinch population in Britain was wiped out by a disease and dirty birdfeeders and birdbaths were thought to be a one of the main causes.
For me, emptying the water daily is simply a routine I've accustomed myself to and it gives me a bit of piece of mind knowing I'm at least trying to protect the birds that visit my garden.
Kevin



I've seen it used in very small water gardens (think large flower pots) where it can be controlled and it looks very healthy/attractive in that situation. We call it *Hot Tuna*!
I eradicated it in my flower border years ago--didn't seem to be that difficult--just dug till it didn't come back, but it wasn't given the chance to spread more than three or four feet.

We had crazy weather here last night and DH and I were watching the weather app on Roku. It showed a UV map which made me think of this thread. The sunlight is so much more intense in the southern zones! It literally made a clear picture as to why some of us can get away with pushing the sun/shade boundaries and others cannot.

I also have the opposite problem...
It gets hot and arid here in summer. Full sun is practically synonymous with dry. If a plant is one that requires good or even moisture it can't go in full sun...it turns to toaster strudel otherwise, lol.
Not all coral-bells are created equal. I've noticed that the greens and purples (in my local at least) seem to tolerate sun better than those that are gold. The orange/bronze types seem to vary a lot...
CMK

All my compost and mulch is home made on the property. It is natural color and not intended to be used for its looks. My compost is all made from the normal garden waste, containing generous amounts of green material, and taking several months to complete the compost. This requires numerous turnings and adding moisture, through 3 descending covered piles. Mulch is made from chipped slag from trees used for firewood. It is much more woody and is piled in the open, subject to both rain and sunshine. It is usually about 3 years old before being used and is partially broken down. Used as mulch it is good for about 2 years, before more is needed to be added. Saves both weeding and soil moisture. Al

Mulch is just something that covers the soil surface, not a specific product. Compost can be used for this purpose just as well as shredded bark or pine straw or whatever else is popular in your area. IMO, it is far better looking than any dyed product and offers a much greater nutrient source than does most other common mulching materials.
Compost is my mulch of choice. I like the texture, I like the color, I like its water retention characteristics and I like the fact that if you mulch regularly with compost you may never need to use prepared fertilizers again :-))
In the US, municipal compost made from recycled yard waste is pretty darn safe. Persistent herbicides are no longer available for household use and commercial applications of these products are extremely limited and with very narrow restrictions on how the treated material can be composted and reused. In many areas, municipal compost goes through a testing or certification process as well. Personally, I would rather use compost from large commercial operation before a homemade pile - it offers a much greater range of ingredients and therefore a broader nutrient distribution and because of the scale of the operation, achieves much higher temperatures resulting in far fewer concerns about lingering pathogens, weed seeds or chemical contamination.

Oh, I see. That makes sense then. The plants I have all seem to be doing well so far. I got some in the ground, the others are in pots still soon to be in the ground sometime this week. We'll be a little cooler this week so it'll be a good time to plant.
Karen


My all time fave is Verbena bonariensis. The lacy blue/purple flowers move in the slightest breeze. It reseeds freely for me, but easily removed if it comes up where I don't want it. Bees, butterlies and goldfinches love it. I'm in Atlanta area and mine has been blooming for 6 weeks, still going strong.
Have a large clump just in front of my vitex, which is just starting to bloom. I cut the vitex way back and thought I'd lost it, but it's going to be wonderful. Hooray! It's another favorite.

Jenny, see this thread for more discussion re ES
Here is a link that might be useful: Tired of Mophead's lack of flowers

Both of my Endless Summer plants came through the winter fine. They are growing well and forming blossoms. I surround them with chicken wire and add leaves for the winter. Perhaps yours are just late.
Keep them watered and maybe give them some alfalfa tea or pellets/loose alfalfa.

First of all don't be too sure that those clematis are dead. My Gravety Beauty has just emerged from the crown. This is one that is usually very full and flowers prolifically. Will be interesting to see if it flowers before frost. I have another that did not appear last year and is growing this year. Maybe give yours some alfalfa pellets (or if on a farm part of a bale) and keep them watered to see if they return next year.
Though I grow both P2 and P3 clematis I treated most of them as P3 and cut them back hard either in November or early spring. Proteus I wait until spring and cut back to new buds as it blooms double on old wood.
Clematis are my favorite vine and I have over 100 plants though some are duplicates. Not sure I have favorites as each has its attractions. Here are some that grow and bloom very well for me.
Asao First to bloom in the spring and covered with bloom from top to bottom
Fireworks: Though this one has some light purple color it mostly fades out so blooms look pink and white Another prolific bloomer top to bottom
Perrin's Pride blooms early, prolific, dark purple
Elsa Spath gorgeous bluish purple blooms
H. F. Young another good bluish purple
Natasha three year old plant covered with bloom from top to bottom
Warsaw Nike a trooper, good reliable bloom every year
Blue Angel have these two together on a trellis, BA starts about a week after WN good blooms
Hagley love this pale pink bloomer
Proteus both single and double blooms at the same time
Prince Charles didn't think I would like this pale bloomer but it
has been a prolific bloomer and good contrast with darker clelmatis
Gillian Blades an early white with hint of purple, ruffled edges
blooms top to bottom
Ernest Markham reliable bloomer
Mme Julia Correvon small blooms cover plant from early summer until frost (this is my oldest clematis--10+ years)
c. texensis Duchess of Albany huge plant mid summer to frost blooms
c. texensis Gravety Beauty closest to red that I have
V. Purpurea Plena Elegans prolific bloomer,
Integrifolia Bushy Blue Bell non-climber blooms from early summer until frost
Inspiration lax climber that needs to be tucked into trellis
blooms early summer until frost
Others that do well for me
Jackmannii, Comtessa de Bouchard, Rhapsody, The President,
v. Polish Spirit, Piilu, Rouge Cardinal, Ville De Lyon, Voluceau,
Alionushka, Recta, Roguchi, t. Etoile Violette, Petit Faucon,
Bourbon, Bijou,
Because I grow so many clematis some are planted in less than ideal conditions, too much shade, tree roots, etc. Those varieties may grow well in better conditions.
And I can not keep Sweet Autumn alive. The first one I had was wonderfully fragrant and prolific but died three years later, too much shade and disturbing the roots. Others since survive one year and don't return. I know it is invasive in many areas and have decided that I will not replant.
I have a new computer and lost my bookmarks and now can not find my Photobucket albums. If you want to see photos of my clematis you can go to the clematis forum and search with mnwsgal in the search box on both the discussion and gallary sites. Lots of other posters have photos as well.
V. Purpurea Plena Elegans

I am glad you asked this question. Don't believe the advertised height. I have two plants, one is more upright than the other, but they are both about 18".
This is the more upright one.

I was a bit worried because it doesn't look quite right. The petals are sparse and the center doesn't look the way it should for this variety.
Here is the one that has flowers that look more the way I think they should look.

Good thing I took these photos for you, because I looked closer and realized it has asters yellow. Bummer! They will both have to be removed.


I'm very fond of primula and see them as one of the most useful and engaging spring plants in our mixed perennial beds.
Not sure re leaves, but I do feel that our Primula vulgaris (= P. acaulis) are a bit disproportioned. To me, that's related to not having a stem (acaulis = stemless).
Personally, I find our Polyantha hybrids more attractive.



A bag??? I put trimmings in a 32 gal rolling trash can....to transfer them into the 90 gal green waste recycle bin. And we even have a second 90 gal bin for the heavy weeks once or twice/month during the more active growing season (March-November).
...and our yard is Maybe if I borrowed one of wooyoak's bags... lol
We have a couple of those bags, only they are green in colour. I think we got them at Canadian Tire when they had a clearance sale at the store.