13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Ah, sorry about the plant.
I went out to scout in my zinnia bed and I can't bear to bring myself to cut out the plants that have new growth. Maybe I'll try to amend around them. If it kills them, it kills them but at least they have more of a chance than with me & my snips.
I have read conflicting information on full vs. part sun. The zinnias are in full sun for the entire day and I'm afraid it may be too much. The other options are a morning sun only bed (but I can't see it without going around the house) and the other has sun from about 12:30pm through sunset, but it's fairly full of dianthus & lilies. I could move some dianthus, I guess.
boothbay.....if you want to keep your burning bush and control its size, cut it back drastically......burning bushes regenerate very well from old wood, so you can cut it back to "stubs" and it will resprout .....once you reduce it to the size you want, just clip it hard every season from now on....no need to get rid of it.......
....if you want to keep your burning bush and control its size, cut it back drastically......burning bushes regenerate very well from old wood, so you can cut it back to "stubs" and it will resprout .....once you reduce it to the size you want, just clip it hard every season from now on....no need to get rid of it......>>>
That is exactly what I did the year before ...I had it pruned down to about 2-3 feet and this is the result. No, I will wait for this Fall gorgeous color and then get rid of it..BTW, someone here mentioned berries..mine has never shown berries and its 20 years old.
How disappointing, ellen. I realize that you have been misled, put through frustration and had to waste your time and energy. Personally I'd take the refund. Usually companies let you keep the plants b/c they don't want to pay shipping back. So even tho' itâÂÂs NOT what you want you would have something for this yr.
I googled to see what it looked like and ran into seeds on sale for $2.00 at Select Seeds, where I have never bought but admired pics and have read positive comments from gw posters. Don't know how much shipping costs. But I might buy seeds on sale now to plant next yr. The refund from Santa Rosa should pay for a good quantity of seeds so at least you would not be out the money, only your time, effort and frustration, esp if the seeds produce color variation! Select Seeds sells the plant as well but it is sold out - you don't want it anyway!
Select Seeds - cherry hirta rudbeckia on sale - $2.00 for 51 seeds
thanks for the link River. Yes I will sow seeds next year. And I'll be prepared - that it may or may not come true to color. Hope they improve the variety so that it will come true. Because it is a beautiful plant.
Lowe's had had the Cherry Hirta in a beautiful color, unfortunately I didn't buy it, went back for it, and they were sold out. They also had red Gaillardia, which I also like, and did buy.
Hope this means that in the future Lowe's will expand beyond the Usual common perenniels.
Here is a link that might be useful: Red Gaillardia
Follow-up:
There was a story about this plant on the local news tonight. The filming was done at one of our nature conservancies and showed an actual field of this stuff. It was really beautiful, but clearly this isn't a case of a few plant here and there. At this conservancy at least, it grows so well it's crowding out native species.
According to the naturalist who only wears protective gloves when pulling the plant, some people are very sensitive to the toxins which can be absorbed through the skin and heart problems can be the result.
The general consensus seems to be this was a plant in someones garden and it escaped.
It still blows my mind there is a digitalis out there that apparently doesn't need coddling and will grow with abandon in Minnesota. Not my experience AT ALL.
Kevin
This post was edited by aachenelf on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 4:34
I think scotch thistle was brought over here by the ornamental trade. I spend several days a year grubbing it out of the front 5 acres. I spent a lot of money getting rid of Quinoa akbea that was strangling a bunch of trees in some land that I shared with my sisters in Pennsylvania and we all lived far away. It was way into the canopies of trees and had a 3 acre spread and branches were breaking, trees dying.
One thing to think about in comparing Europe to the US is the amount of wild land that isn't gardened and this land can be invaded. I live close to a 3000 acre park, and a couple 8000 acre ranches. No one is out their weeding. Invasives are a problem. They blow in from the suburbs. They get brought in in hay bales. That is how I got Johnson grass. Birds bring vine berries.Yellow star malta thistle has taken over 15 million acres in California and it causes horses to get a neurological condition that keeps them from swallowing so they chew and chew and die of starvation. IyT is in the cattle guard and on my list to poison.
One can drive through States and states of Kudzo and then one enters the Mile a minute hanging forests of west virginia,virginia and Kentucky and then the Appalachians full of multiflora rose and Jappanese knotweed. It is sad to see the landscape in distress.
I have an fragrant mimosa in my yard. It is a native and it Makes A LOT of seed but there's a bug that lives and bores into almost every seed and lays an egg or something in each one. I would not advise taking it to England without a good population of that bug. It is hard to pull out with a wicked deep root and spreads by its root too. It is in balance here, and I love its fragrance, but I can see that if that bug wasn't here, it would be a bugger.
The thing about invasive lists is they are the plants that are already out of the gate. The ones that are just gathering steam have not been addressed. It gets so confusing because a plant van be a real problem in one place and not be a problem 20 miles away.Globalization with its ease of shipping plant material and the stepped up pace of plant introduction of these last decades is going to bite us in the @ss.
I don't think there should still be confusion between the symptoms of coneflower rosette mite and those of aster yellow.
In the former case, only the flower is affected in an otherwise healthy plant. Also some of the original flower colour usually remains.
Re above: as has been said, by the time the flower damage is apparent, the mite is already established in the plant.
Coneflower rosette mites are microscopic, their population builds up to very large number in a single flower, they apparently spread by wafting from leaf surfaces, in the wind, and they overwinter as adult females in plant debris.
It's very informative to read NM's comments.
As said, my 'Magnus', "White Swan' and species have never been affected. It seems interesting that the only affected coneflowers I've had, have been newer cultivars that were purchased within the last ten years. Maybe it's when the plants were purchased as much as what cultivars they were.
NM, re the retailers (and other parts of the horticultural industry) it's all about the money. But I bet you knew that!
This post was edited by SunnyBorders on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 11:31
I grew 'Black Knight' Buddleia from seed via winter sowing back in 2009 and the next year planted out dozens of seedlings that have since grown to maturity. I have them in multiple garden beds, planted in both full and part sun. They're healthy and appear to be bothered by few pests. Flowering is abundant and the butterflies & other pollinators are on them constantly once they bloom.
So far none of mine have topped 10 ft. tall which may be related more to sun exposure and soil type than anything else.
Butterfly bush should be pruned back to 10" in spring each year (March where I am) since it blooms on new wood. Other than that it's completely maintenance-free.
You don't post your location or zone so be advised Buddleia is listed as invasive in some states due to its prolific reseeding.
Someone in my area had a hive maliciously destroyed by a neighbor -- I believe the neighbor either poisoned the hive or set it on fire, I don't remember the details, it was last year or the year before. That is sad to destroy a hive like that, not to mention the destruction of property angle. I'm not sure if the homeowner (beekeeper) took the person to court - like I said, I'm sketchy on the details. I think it comes down to ignorance -- people think bees are aggressive and don't want them around. I'd never have a hive in suburbia for that reason - the neighbors would be in an uproar. Give me an acre or two of land, though, and I'd defintely take up beekeeping as a hobby.
its a recent transplant ...
and from what i see... its the oldest leaves on the plant...
that were sacrificed during transplant shock..
simply remove them ...
after transplant... always focus on the new growth.. if that is growing with vigor.. then it means it settled in.. and going about its business ... yours look fat and happy in this regard ....
never fear.. to remove older leaves ... and when you do.. you should study the plant.. to learn.. how to ID the oldest leaves ... its how they are attached to the base of the plant .. in most cases
now.. if the new growth looked like that... then you would have a problem ... eh??
ken
mmmm, ranunculus are tricksy to grow, being sensitive to temperature and daylength. Many fail because the corms/tubers/claws are sold in spring when it is far too late for them to flower and bloom - they may leaf up but will only produce vegetative and root growth. To succeed with these, they need to be planted in late summer/autumn (like anemone coronaria or the De Caen hybrids), kept dryish all winter and started into growth (by watering) just after Xmas in a cool greenhouse. They will start to leaf up in January and should start to bloom early April. As soon as day length increases, they go back into vegetative growth.
So, Woody, I would probably not bother with these unless you find some in bloom around Easter when you can keep them and continue the growth cycle for next year.
They are as easy (?) from seed as from tubers....but planting times are the same - they can be forced into growth in around 20weeks.
My daughter was in France this past spring and she found bouquets of ranunculus for sale and loved them. I wanted to try to grow them for her, but it doesn't sound feasible. I'm in zone 6 and they won't winter over for me if they're only hardy to zone 8. If they need to be started in the late summer and grown over the winter, no green house here and not really wanting another winter project.
Okay, well, she's going to have to keep buying bunches of them when she can find them, then. Thank you all for settling that one for me. :-)
This post was edited by prairiemoon2 on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 10:58
Having a field of them may simply mean they are reseeding annuals. I grow Papaver rhoeas, annuals, because they reseed so thoroughly and last so long, and then you just pull them. None of the fuss that you get with the perennial kind of ugly, dying foliage after the short bloom. But I certainly don't let all of them go to seed, that would be a solid field.
My guess, is that the seeds of many, may have died, in the garage, over winter, from repeatedly freezing & thawing, along with high humidity, & along the lines that Ken mentioned above, with mice. Had they been sown in autumn, they would have likely germinated, or if it were too late & too cold, been protected from the cover of snow & germinated as early as they could, in springtime.
Also, someone mentioned dormancy & that happens if sown, after the flowers of the same, are already in bloom, in your area, after is too warm, continuously...
Once June starts, some say it is already the start of summer weather & do not go according to the date of the solstice... & if your temps were just a bit too high enough, they may well haye actually germinated, but died to either heat exposure, or due to inadequate constant moisture at time of germination, if they were viable. But whatever didn't survive, through all that, the remainder may just might sprout when it's, cool enough in autumn.
Cool enough spring/fall temperatures & nearly constant adequate moisture after sowing, are probably the two most important factors, when you are certain, the seeds are good, other than fairly well draining soil & adequate sun exposure.
Yes, and lucky you! I have never been able to get those to do anything here.
Thanks all. That's exactly what it is... Mystery solved.