13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
no, don't throw them away.....you can try a Chelsea Chop - cut them back by half, water and feed and inspect the new growth - which will be bushier and more able to support itself. It will be later in flower and the flowers will be a little bit smaller than usual....but this is a very good treatment for many late flowering perennials. One of the most notorious diseases of phlox is eelworm.....which this is not. With an eelworm infection, the leaves tend to curl and grow in very thin strips, looking almost like there is only a central vein and no green substance. This does look like a fungal disease so rather than using copper sulphate (an accepted organic spray for fungal disease), I would be inclined to try a systemic fungicide.
I'm pretty sure davidrt28 is correct after googling it. I thought it might be rattlebox, but after looking at pics of yellow baptisia online, I'm 99% sure that's it. My plants are very thin because they were completely choked by phlox and weeds which had overtaken almost the entire bed. The thinness threw me, but I imagine now what they can look like if they actually get sun.
I haven't but they sound beautiful. I am going to find a picture of them.
I did find rudbeckias growing all over this season where I didn't plant them.
I don't know what kind they are yet.
It would be wonderful if they turn out to be reseeds of the cherry brandy that I lost to the brutal winter.
I redid my entire front yard (1 acre) a few years back. Since then creeping charlie has taken over about 1/2 of it. I tried the most common weed killers found on the Internet, including Weed Be Gone Max. Nothing seemed to work. It was so bad this year, I felt I only had 2 options .. Round Up or plow it under and start over. I tried R/U on part of the lawn, which after about 1 week, has killed the grass, but only injured the C/C. Then I found another product, recommended for C/C, etc., to be used on turf. I bought a small quantity of this product to try, as it's expensive. The next day after application, the C/C was looking pretty sick. By about day 3, it was dead (or so it has appeared). I ordered a gallon and have sprayed the entire lawn. The remaining C/C and dandelions are once again looking sick, after 24 hours. This is the only product, which has killed the C/C and saved the lawn.The product is PBI Gordon's Speed Zone, bought from Pestrong.Com!
I now, have to till and reseed the areas, where I applied R/U.
This post was edited by tmajor on Sun, May 18, 14 at 16:06
I'm curious to know what it is too. It's been showing up in my garden over the last few years and I've also seen it spread its way up and down the highway medians. Looks nice but it seems to like to spread. I thought it might be escaped rapeseed plants, and the spread comes from the planting of all those rapeseed fields for growing seed for canola oil.
I wondered about both of those, also, but didn't think they fit, either. I'd wait until they prove themselves by blooming. You can always deadhead to keep them from reseeding. And a shovel will get rid of them if they are too big to yank. Maybe someone can still ID them for you. Good luck.
Martha
All very good comments and suggestions. No, I am not allergic to pine sap. I catch it from this bed because the tractor will catch some at the edge of the bed and the clippings kind of fly everywhere. I am pretty allergic.
Again, the PI isn't up yet. It's too early here. Maybe in a few weeks.
Last year I waited to have it sprayed until the bulb foliage had died and could be removed. Didn't want to lose my dafs. This year I might just clip them back early and see if they make it. I can always plant more I guess.
I will report back with pics of the PI.
bragu talked about an allergy to pine pollen, not pine sap. My mom has that problem, and when she lived in a neighborhood full of 100' pines, she had to give up gardening during that season.
Take a look at your trees: do any have vines crawling up the trunks? (Not just 1/8" vine stems, but possibly 1-2" or larger.) Likely PI! Have someone non-allergic sever the vine stems near the ground and immediately paint both cut surfaces with Ortho PI killer concentrate. [If you did have PI vines up your trees, the entire area under those trees would have been showered all summer and fall with PI berries/seeds.]
PI stems and other parts remain contagious for up to 5 years, so you don't want to touch anything which might be a killed PI plant or a piece of a killed PI plant.
I have killed well over 95% or more of the PI which used to be on my acreage, but it's all over the neighborhood, and continues to show up here via the birds (predominantly under trees and fences), as well as seeds which wash downslope from the neighbors on both sides. On the south, numerous PI seedlings continue to show up in the lawn in particular places where runoff drains from the neighbor's property.
Hardy geraniums, aquilegias, aconitum sp.
SweetKate,
I have that same planting in my front yard and you may want to re-think the sage by your front door. The sage attracts big bumblebees and although they are not at all aggressive, (I work in my garden right next to them), some people are terrified of bees.
Linda
Landscaper and Beekeeper