13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I am in Central texas, so I don't know your soil and water situation. There a couple of south texans that check in at the Texas forum. Here's a guess, Mexican olive can take part shade, Jasmine,salvia regla, mexican salvias, phlox, iron plant, greek pattern plant, mexican turkscap or sleeping hibiscus is much larger with hanging larger blooms than the texas variety and blooms in fall into winter and is gorgeous but less cold hardy that the normal turkscap but good for you., sago palms and other palms,You can grow many of the dioons that I can not. Mexican or Texan mock orange (harder to find), oak leaf hydrangea ,texas mountain laurel will grow in part shade, it just won't bloom as much. Abutilon, Barbados cherry,Yellow necklace pod, Clethra maybe, rio grande bee bush can take some shade.
This post was edited by wantonamara on Fri, Apr 18, 14 at 23:09
I just picked this plant up today - a six-pack. Didn't say what the specific variety was. Just "Purple" at the top of the tag, and described 18 inches tall, space 10 inches apart. Of course the first thing I did after I bought it was search for it here :)
Any way, it sounds like they are super - easy to collect seed from, so even though I don't have any now, I should have some this fall.
they should releaf in the next 2 to 4 weeks ... so let them.. and then figure out what pruning might be requisite ...
otherwise.. he is just guessing ...
but if he is a whacker.. perhaps his personality.. wont allow him to wait and learn how the plant reacts ...
have him load a pic.. if he wants more precise answers ...
and i presume you meant a frost/freeze.. rather than freezer damage... lol
ken
Wow...i havent' been getting emails saying I got replies...??? Thanks to all who replied.
E-maniac....since I only paid $3 for it, I'm not too worried. Altho I am the kind that will take it back right now and get a refund (or exchange for something else most likely...lol).
Thanks Sandy...that's a lot of good info. I 'think' maybe when they say dormant, they just mean it stops growing and blooming? Not sure, tho.
But good mention of not being a great potted plant. I do have a side area where I stick stuff I'm not that 'in love' with, so it might just go there. Would only get early morning sun, too, so would help with not frying it.
Oh...can anyone answer my #6 question? No biggie...just wondering. Sandy, you said people prolly think it looks like dandylions, so that makes me think yours has the skinny petals.
Bonnie
The patch started off as one plant in a 3" pot. I've dug up a fair amount for plant swaps, and managed to twist people's arms to take them :) (anything that blooms before the spring swaps can be hard to get rid of)
Dormant in this case means die off until next year. The big rose behind them covers them up during the summer, so it doesn't matter what they do.
I am in South Central Montana, Billings. . . sorry to bother you here, I will go to the forum I need to be. . . and for the record ken. . . NO. . .I am not trying to blame my husband for anything. . . just looking for some helpful advise. . .
They don't show much of the variegation until they go into the blooming phase, also if the plain ones are nearby they'll cross and you'll likely lose the variegation. Mine look like the winter did them in :( but I noticed a seedling or two so there's hope.
Same thing as jebfarm said, give them more time. I have some blooming, yet the late planted ones are not up yet. They are always late the first year.
But..... Good thing you checked the bulbs for firmness. I was just at one of the Marts yesterday and took a look at their spring bulb display. All kinds of crocus daffs tulips and even amaryllis kits. All rolled out for spring and all dried up, hollow, and dead from last fall. A guarantee for failure.
Thanks aseedisapromise and Campanula,
Just today I sent my order to a nursery,
So now I combine the dwarf Iris with Aubrieta ( combo grows near here for years and looks great in early spring),
Add some Lalavender around it for flowers in summer and Aster pyrenaeus Lutetia for fall. Perhaps add Pulsatilla and Iberis later.
The bearded Iris do grow around here, must be a climate thing, right now they are cropping up everywhere, and actally I got a bucket full of tall Iris from a garden neighbour.
The tree gives little shade, most of the stuff gets full sun till early afternoon.
And I will see whether I need to adept the planting if the tree gets bigger in 3-5 years.
Will get back later with details on allotment,
Bye, good night, Lin
ps: my great garden help, clipping the Iris before planting
That's a tall order. I'm sure you'll get suggestions here but something else you might consider is a visit to a local garden nursery where you can ask questions and see what plants are being sold in your locale.
Another suggestion is to visit a nursery website or two. Santa Rosa Gardens (in FL) and White Flower Farm (in CT) come to mind. Both provide plenty of online garden information, ideas & suggestions.
Invasive plants are listed on the Internet by state so that's also information at your fingertips. I've posted a link to one website below.
Good luck & happy gardening!
Here is a link that might be useful: Invasive species by state - map
The bay area has different growing conditions than the areas where we generally design. But what you want to look for is a full sun plant that can grow in part shade; you do not want to try to convince a shade grower to be happy in 4-5 hours of strong sun. A number of plants would be happy with that amount of sun, so you should still have a variety to choose from.
You listed some other traits you wanted, but did not explain what you wanted the plants to accomplish landscape wise (backdrop, showy, privacy, for example). Is there an overall design plan, even though you may not be installing everything at this time? What height(s) do you need, how wide is the planting area and how large is the overall yard size? Trees or shrubs, or a mix? What is the planned irrigation method? What backyard activities need to be taken into account?
It's been a long time since I've grown a "Bird", but as I remember these things are pretty tough.
Generally speaking if a plants root system has been compromised (roots chopped off), the leaves are going to suffer because there aren't enough roots to supply them with water. And generally speaking, the solution to that is to remove some of the leaves until the roots have an opportunity to regrow. Without seeing the plant, it's hard for me to judge if this is necessary or not, but keep an eye on the plant. If it starts to look droopy and stays that way, it might to something to consider.
Kevin
Kevin,
Thanks for the encouragement! I did trim off a few leaves that already had a bit of damage anyway, so I figured that would clean it up a little and help it survive. I appreciate that advice.
So far I think it's okay. I'm glad to hear you say they're tough. I do feel like it's a little hard to tell since the stems and leaves are so stiff I'm not sure they would really ever look droopy unless they were brown and dead...
Thanks for the visual treat, you have some beauties there. My hellebores are past their best now, along with the grape hyacinths, early tulips and mini daffodils. Lots of the clemies are in bud and the pulmonarias are still looking good but nothing as eye catching as you've shown here. Hmmmm, that little ginkgo, I wonder, Christin how big does it eventually grow, height and width, I'm running out of space here.
Annette
-Annette, my Iseli Nursery tag says the Ginkgo grows 4-6" per year and will reach a size of about 3-4ft in 10 years.
Another site (Missouri Botanical) says it will get only 2x2 in ten years and will ultimately get to a size of about 3ft tall and 8ft wide.
I've also read that they are great bonsai plants, so you could easily keep it containerized too ;-)
CMK
there are two types of H ... the bush/shrub.. and the vine ..
the vine should do fine.. with some selective pruning thru the years.. to keep it on the fence. ...
i would NEVER plant a monoculture ... so put other things along the 30 feet ...
i like autumn clematis... but it can seed somewhat aggressively in some zones ... it doenst in my MI ...figure that out for yourself ...
i have that fence on my split rail... who knew it was called hog wire fence.. lol .. well.. apparently you and google knew...lol
if it were me.. i would.. given the space.. double the bed to 8 feet.. and leave at least 2 feet at the fence.. to walk back there and tend the garden from the other side ... at least you dont need that space to paint a wood fence .... otherwise .. figure out how you reach into a 4 foot deep bed ... presuming you dont have 4 foot monkey like arms .... w/o walking in your flower beds ...
ken
I like the idea of having the vines, either the clematis and/or the honeysuckle as a backdrop, but as others have said, they will need two or three feet added depth to the bed since they don't grow absolutely flat. Since your fence is only 4' high, the vines will reach the top and then spill over unless you train them to grow sideways or you have selected some of the shortest clematis. The spilling over will take depth as well.
I also like the looks of a deeper bed because you can have layers of plants allowing for something to be in bloom or have ornamental foliage for most of the season. In my beds, almost all of which are deeper than 4', I place stepping stones or some type of path in the middle of the bed where I can walk without compacting the soil around the plants when I do maintenance such as weeding or cutting plants back at season's end.