13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Wow...i havent' been getting emails saying I got replies...??? Thanks to all who replied.
E-maniac....since I only paid $3 for it, I'm not too worried. Altho I am the kind that will take it back right now and get a refund (or exchange for something else most likely...lol).
Thanks Sandy...that's a lot of good info. I 'think' maybe when they say dormant, they just mean it stops growing and blooming? Not sure, tho.
But good mention of not being a great potted plant. I do have a side area where I stick stuff I'm not that 'in love' with, so it might just go there. Would only get early morning sun, too, so would help with not frying it.
Oh...can anyone answer my #6 question? No biggie...just wondering. Sandy, you said people prolly think it looks like dandylions, so that makes me think yours has the skinny petals.
Bonnie


The patch started off as one plant in a 3" pot. I've dug up a fair amount for plant swaps, and managed to twist people's arms to take them :) (anything that blooms before the spring swaps can be hard to get rid of)
Dormant in this case means die off until next year. The big rose behind them covers them up during the summer, so it doesn't matter what they do.


I am in South Central Montana, Billings. . . sorry to bother you here, I will go to the forum I need to be. . . and for the record ken. . . NO. . .I am not trying to blame my husband for anything. . . just looking for some helpful advise. . .

They don't show much of the variegation until they go into the blooming phase, also if the plain ones are nearby they'll cross and you'll likely lose the variegation. Mine look like the winter did them in :( but I noticed a seedling or two so there's hope.

Same thing as jebfarm said, give them more time. I have some blooming, yet the late planted ones are not up yet. They are always late the first year.
But..... Good thing you checked the bulbs for firmness. I was just at one of the Marts yesterday and took a look at their spring bulb display. All kinds of crocus daffs tulips and even amaryllis kits. All rolled out for spring and all dried up, hollow, and dead from last fall. A guarantee for failure.

Thanks aseedisapromise and Campanula,
Just today I sent my order to a nursery,
So now I combine the dwarf Iris with Aubrieta ( combo grows near here for years and looks great in early spring),
Add some Lalavender around it for flowers in summer and Aster pyrenaeus Lutetia for fall. Perhaps add Pulsatilla and Iberis later.
The bearded Iris do grow around here, must be a climate thing, right now they are cropping up everywhere, and actally I got a bucket full of tall Iris from a garden neighbour.
The tree gives little shade, most of the stuff gets full sun till early afternoon.
And I will see whether I need to adept the planting if the tree gets bigger in 3-5 years.
Will get back later with details on allotment,
Bye, good night, Lin
ps: my great garden help, clipping the Iris before planting



That's a tall order. I'm sure you'll get suggestions here but something else you might consider is a visit to a local garden nursery where you can ask questions and see what plants are being sold in your locale.
Another suggestion is to visit a nursery website or two. Santa Rosa Gardens (in FL) and White Flower Farm (in CT) come to mind. Both provide plenty of online garden information, ideas & suggestions.
Invasive plants are listed on the Internet by state so that's also information at your fingertips. I've posted a link to one website below.
Good luck & happy gardening!
Here is a link that might be useful: Invasive species by state - map

The bay area has different growing conditions than the areas where we generally design. But what you want to look for is a full sun plant that can grow in part shade; you do not want to try to convince a shade grower to be happy in 4-5 hours of strong sun. A number of plants would be happy with that amount of sun, so you should still have a variety to choose from.
You listed some other traits you wanted, but did not explain what you wanted the plants to accomplish landscape wise (backdrop, showy, privacy, for example). Is there an overall design plan, even though you may not be installing everything at this time? What height(s) do you need, how wide is the planting area and how large is the overall yard size? Trees or shrubs, or a mix? What is the planned irrigation method? What backyard activities need to be taken into account?

It's been a long time since I've grown a "Bird", but as I remember these things are pretty tough.
Generally speaking if a plants root system has been compromised (roots chopped off), the leaves are going to suffer because there aren't enough roots to supply them with water. And generally speaking, the solution to that is to remove some of the leaves until the roots have an opportunity to regrow. Without seeing the plant, it's hard for me to judge if this is necessary or not, but keep an eye on the plant. If it starts to look droopy and stays that way, it might to something to consider.
Kevin

Kevin,
Thanks for the encouragement! I did trim off a few leaves that already had a bit of damage anyway, so I figured that would clean it up a little and help it survive. I appreciate that advice.
So far I think it's okay. I'm glad to hear you say they're tough. I do feel like it's a little hard to tell since the stems and leaves are so stiff I'm not sure they would really ever look droopy unless they were brown and dead...

Thanks for the visual treat, you have some beauties there. My hellebores are past their best now, along with the grape hyacinths, early tulips and mini daffodils. Lots of the clemies are in bud and the pulmonarias are still looking good but nothing as eye catching as you've shown here. Hmmmm, that little ginkgo, I wonder, Christin how big does it eventually grow, height and width, I'm running out of space here.
Annette

-Annette, my Iseli Nursery tag says the Ginkgo grows 4-6" per year and will reach a size of about 3-4ft in 10 years.
Another site (Missouri Botanical) says it will get only 2x2 in ten years and will ultimately get to a size of about 3ft tall and 8ft wide.
I've also read that they are great bonsai plants, so you could easily keep it containerized too ;-)
CMK

I have been looking more on the web and I think you are right to advise cutting it less. If all goes well, I will still have some (low) privacy and if it croaks, I can replant next spring. While I cut, I will apologize profusely to it in hopes of encouragement. It's been here so long it is almost a pet.
Where are you? our N Ca spring is nearly over- everything came at least two weeks early here this year. Min

the easy way ... would be to use the very expensive applicator at the link ... fill with full strength round up or generic ... and drip it down the D leaf blades ... and just kill the bulbs ... and then return the unused RU to the properly labeled container ...
they are cheap ... and why disturb the peony???
i do this with things growing in the middle of hosta clumps.. all the time ...
no where is it written.. that RU must be sprayed ... and that is where all the problems begin ...
and no ... i would not be concerned about it being stored in a rotting bulb and somehow being transported by dementors to the peony ...
ken
Here is a link that might be useful: link

If you don't want to thin out by digging up the daffodils, then you could thin about by the methods mentioned above. So in this case, don't cut or trim every daffodil but go ahead and thin it enough to where you are satisfied with how it does look. Even if grows like that again next year (until the daff bulb dies off), just trim it again for the growing season.
I don't have as many daff plants as you do, so everyone is precious and I'll try not to kill them off. But when you have many like you do, then it's easier to just whack whack whack at the leaves to cause the eventual ruin of the bulb below.
But another option is to wait until the daffodil flowers. If you end up liking the flower then it might be worth it to carefully dig it up in the fall and spread it out to other areas.


I've long since given up hoping for the potted mums to overwinter in the ground. But they do sometimes overwinter in the big pots we transplant them into and store in the garage for the winter. Last year a large mum was growing strongly by the time we moved the big pots out of the garage in the spring. So I left it in the pot, gave it some slow release fertilizer and clipped it back in mid-May, early June, and early July to keep it bushy, and then let it set buds and bloom in August. It's the orangy-red one in the picture below. As you can see when you compare it with the dark red potted mum bought fresh last summer, my clipping/pinching (and perhaps not enough fertilizer?) didn't produce nearly as bushy a plant as the purchased potted ones. We moved the pots out of the garage last weekend. Two of the mums are still alive but I'm going to throw them out this year. I've got an order in for the Mammoth mums and I have an old hardy white one that we like so I'm going to stick to the hardy types now and not bother with potted ones other than perhaps as throw-away temporary fall color until I see how the Mammoth ones perform here.



Nhbabs....while I don't know what 'sandy loam' is (too lazy to google...lol)...I know I don't have it....hahaha. Mine are in raised bed so soil was purchased in bags a few years back. I supplement (amend?) it each year and feed the plants every now and then. And as I said, the other plants are real happy so I think the soil is fine.
I'm beginning to think maybe because u don't get full sun, urs are happier. Mine get sun from sunrise until late afternoon. I also noticed my blooms are fading now (both in color and quantity). Is it time for that to happen? I didn't recall them blooming a long period of time.
Did find some 3" pots of it @ Lowe's for only $2.28 (reg. price) so I grabbed a few more and hope they fare better...lol.

Babs, I have 'Waterperry Blue' too, in full sun. And I haven't decided what I think of it yet. It's next to thyme and they get into each other and next to the lawn and some yarrow that is in my front lawn, gets into both of them. So I plan on moving it, but the Waterperry Blue does grow well in full sun.






Thanks! I'll just plant them as is, and if they don't survive, I have tons of seeds left.
do you guys get a lot of aphids (green) in your foxglove leaves? if so how do you control them?